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Thread: start, died, no re-start after new head gasket

  1. #26

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    So the engine runs when you pour gas down its throat but won't stay running. How many times did you try it?
    I know the pump is easier to prime if the fuel tank is full. If you're almost empty it'll take longer. You can take the fuel line from the pump to the carb off, pull the ignition coil wire off and crank it over to see if your getting fuel. If you're going to change the lines that would be the time to try that.
    I assume that the truck ran fine before all the work was done soooo....if you do have fuel coming from the pump, it could be that a small piece of fuel line or pump diaphragm has gotten into the carb.

  2. #27

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    She likes me dizzy darn it. On the other hand, I started calling her "her" and "she" instead of "the little truck", so it's definitely a female, no man would be this complicated over anything so damn simple.

    Well, I did see some cracks in fuel to carb hoses at the edges/ends, and knew they'd have to be replaced when I was taking them off TWO WEEKS ago, rofl, just didn't want to do anything not 100% urgent until I knew I didn't mess up the head gasket. Any other gasket just not that one, THEN she can have the bra, the panties, the leather, I don't care what it takes!!! Fancy lights & gauges, real wheels & tires, hell, I may even get some paint and bondo / plastic surgery for her to look 18 again. But noooo, she's stubborn.

    Found the fuel filter today so that was practically the highlight of my day with her - other than setting personal speed records for taking things off/putting them back on & stepping on the gas to hear a short rev *sighs*. -Tightened the fuel pump nuts at TDC, gas in the carb, no change.
    -Loosened the fuel pump nuts maybe they were too tight (can not find the torque for them!!!) at TDC, gas in the carb, no change.
    -Valve cover off again, look, touch, check movement in spring while manually cranking w/bolt on crank shaft, all looks good, put back together, no change.
    -Pull off all the fuel carrying hoses between every stage and see if any fuel comes out/ was in hose, between each tinkering test. No change.
    - fuel filter not clogged, dumped freakin fuel into the hose that comes from the fuel tank to make sure it didn't leak under the truck between the tank & the pump inlet, no freakin leak, no change.
    - wiped down everywhere under all hose connections to look for possible fuel leaks even though I didn't smell any fuel, MAYBE leaking from where it goes over the valve cover back to the carb hmm, tightened that clamp, wiped all around it & under it, put it all back together, no change, but wonder where that moisture came from it wouldn't do it again.

    No need to mark bolts anymore, easy to tell where they all go. Jeez.
    I bought extra fuel hose at the parts store for testing, I may start a fire sooner or later but this problem will be solved. Dang it, I forgot to ask them if they had clear/see-through hose, oh well.

    It takes me so long doing things to her alone, and anything I need is another day added waiting for rides to the parts store. My dog finally got so bored waiting on me she went into the house & chewed up half of one of my shoes. My fave shoes of course. Stole it right off the high "safe" spot, too, sneaky puppy. Too tall, almost 5' high reach... dang shame.

    If anyone happens to know the torque specs for the fuel pump nuts I'd be much thankful for them. Can't find them in the book ANYWHERE. Like they should be, it's important! Or just 'tight as possible'? no thanks, I've cross threaded things before, it sucks.

    (I'm going to feel so dumb when I figure this out lol)

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy 2 View Post
    So the engine runs when you pour gas down its throat but won't stay running. How many times did you try it?
    I know the pump is easier to prime if the fuel tank is full. If you're almost empty it'll take longer. You can take the fuel line from the pump to the carb off, pull the ignition coil wire off and crank it over to see if your getting fuel. If you're going to change the lines that would be the time to try that.
    I assume that the truck ran fine before all the work was done soooo....if you do have fuel coming from the pump, it could be that a small piece of fuel line or pump diaphragm has gotten into the carb.
    Yes the engine runs quite nicely with gas down the carb. (she sounds like heaven) Doesn't even bog, stutter, lug, skip, tick, or shake or make any evil noises when I step on the gas. Tried 3 times that way, didn't want to keep cranking and lose the battery just yet, more crank attempts were done with no gas down the carb & didn't start.

    Should I keep pouring gas down her throat until she starts acting right? Because I will if I should! I have an extra battery (unsure of the charge on it but can hook it up to the charger ) It's a big battery though, from my car, not sure it'll fit in the truck but I bet I could force it. Will do whatever it takes!

    The tank gas gauge is showing under 1/2 tank, over 1/4.

    Okeedokes, I'm going to try taking the fuel line off, too, now that i have new hoses to play with I got an extra long hose specifically just for doing that today, so I can crank her over & watch the end of the hose without asking/waiting for a helper here, Thank you for mentioning it, glad to see I'm thinking good sometimes!

  4. #29

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    If you have a small plastic bottle with a plastic cap, you can drill a tiny hole in the cap and use it to squirt gas into the carb just before the engine stalls. If you time it just right you can keep the engine running for quite a while. Its hard to drive that way though

  5. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy 2 View Post
    If you have a small plastic bottle with a plastic cap, you can drill a tiny hole in the cap and use it to squirt gas into the carb just before the engine stalls. If you time it just right you can keep the engine running for quite a while. Its hard to drive that way though
    I like it here a lot, lol. Today didn't go as planned, will get to it this weekend

  6. #31

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    Ahhh new fuel hoses to the carb did the trick

    Ahhhhh, so I danced badly and sang off key for a few songs. Yay.

    Much big very great huge thanks to all

    Now... about the smoke... she still smokes, both from the tailpipe and from under the heatsheild over the exhaust manifold, pretty sure the exhaust manifold side smoke is from all the liquid wrench crap.

    Hoping the smoke/steam out of the tail pipe is due to the new oil mixing with the old oil that had water in it.

    Going to the store for supplies for another 2 oil changes (1 with the cleaner quart in it), and a new oil filter.

    So will come home, change the oil & add the cleaner, run her for 5 minutes at idle w/the oil cleaner in the oil, then drain all that, THEN add the new oil, and the new filter (again). Then we'll see if she still steams out the back end.

    Okay so LAST question HAHA:

    WHEN do I torque down the head bolts the rest of the way ????

  7. #32

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    One TDC is at the end of the compression stroke, and that's when the spark should happen. The other TDC is at the end of the exhaust stoke, and there is no spark.

  8. #33

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    Glad to hear you got it running on it's own. After you put the oil cleaner in, I would let engine come up to it's full operating temp and let it idle for another 2-3 minutes to make sure the entire engine is as hot as it's going to get. Have the torque wrench all ready and then pop the valve cover and torque the bolts in the correct sequence to 75 ft. lbs. Then change the oil again as you planned.

    As for the tailpipe smoke, you'll know more after you get it warmed up.

  9. #34

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    ok Andy, I can't really thank you enough without sounding stalker-ish LOL!!! But please know I deeeeeply appreciate your comments & such throughout this ordeal. My mom called = 2 hr phone call (good grief she can talk good thing I love her) and now it's dark so tomorrow rain OR shine I'll get out there & see about the final final final oil cleansing process & what comes out of the tailpipe.

    I'm in the bad habit of assuming pretty much steam = smoke. I don't actually know the difference except that faint steam that's like sitting at idle at a red light on a freezing day - that I know for sure is steam. That for sure is only steam because all the other cars around me have the same thing going on & I always look around to make sure mine isn't the only one doing it. I'm not sure if it was smoking or steaming today but it wasn't under freezing temps so I'm calling it smoke. I put my hand a couple inches from the tail pipe and it was moisty afterwards, so I'm not sure if that's steam or smoke, it was sticky almost light oily feeling, not just water, but definitely gross. Smelled gross, too, like chemicals, not sweet, gross enough to cough afterwards. Hopefully tomorrow will bring good news, SURE could use some

    Thank you again & sure hope you're having a much better weekend than me

  10. #35

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    Not sweet might be a good thing as engine coolant smells sweet when it burns I believe. See what it's like after you get everything done and have had it out for a drive. If it's been sitting for a while, and its been rainy, it could just be moisture that's built up.

  11. #36

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    Ahhh, victory No more smoke or steam

    Took her down a mile of 25mph zone, slowly, and then a 40mph zone, & hit 40, slowly. Parked her for a good 45 minutes & checked under her before & after & no leaks. Started her back up & no smoke or steam Drove back home in the same 40mph zone (only about a mile) and it's uphill a little tiny bit & she was fine without complaining though I did not push it a bit!

    BF said she never sounded better, but I'm hearing little things, maybe just getting used to her new sounds. I pulled over on the 25mph zone to start from zero mph again & complained outloud that she doesn't GO when I step on the gas! She doesn't speed up very fast and he said she didn't do that before and laughed at me. I have to remember she's still only got 4 squirrels under the hood, not over 200 horses.

    Oh so happy, so relieved, so mentally wiped out after this weekend. SO NICE to talk about the head gasket issues & putting her back together in the PAST TENSE!

    Going to throw in a new thermostat just in case, because I never ever EVER want to do another head gasket again, ever. Ever.

    It's not hard, and I do think anyone can do it, it's the tiny little details that are so worrying. Definitely worth trying to DIY and avoid getting ripped off for $1200 hahaha, omg, no way it should cost a lot to have professionally done!

    Big thanks & hugs for all the support & clues along the way!!!

  12. #37




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    remember to put a 192 - 195 degree thermostat in, preferably a high flow like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-Thermo...5b89ef&vxp=mtr . Use the number of the stant part at your local parts store.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  13. #38

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    i agree with Pennyman1 & like the picture shows it must have a jiggle valve to allow bypass if you are using the original carburetor so the choke will work correctly.

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    remember to put a 192 - 195 degree thermostat in, preferably a high flow like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stant-Thermo...5b89ef&vxp=mtr . Use the number of the stant part at your local parts store.
    I will !!! Thank you extremely much , perfect timing just remembered going to parts store tonight , so tired still but needs to be done, 100% agreed to follow the advice here absolutely!!!

  15. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by ragragtimetime View Post
    i agree with Pennyman1 & like the picture shows it must have a jiggle valve to allow bypass if you are using the original carburetor so the choke will work correctly.
    Aww thank you so much! Appreciate the jiggle valve words so when i get to the counter I won't pick the wrong option, lol. I did write down the part # and the truck sits until this is in *just in case*. Don't want any (more) problems

  16. #41



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    You all like them hot thermostats. I run a 180 and it runs at 200 consistently.

    Jiggle valves What a great name...Reminds me once when the wifey bought butt connectors for a project I was doing. No smart ass remarks either, lol They are a real thing you can buy at a electrical store.
    922005_primary.jpg

  17. #42

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    Just a little update *knock on wood* nothing in/on/under the truck is leaking other than the windows! No smoke, no steam, no drips from anything. No fluid drops on the driveway & all the messy fluid spills i did while replacing power steering hoses and such burned off. Rubbed my hand all over the back of the engine where i can't see & it came back a little dirty but dry as hell *YES!* Even got the gaskets & valve cover pieces done RTV'd just right. No leaks from the transmission, radiator, or new power steering hoses I replaced & the vacuum hoses all stayed attached without extra clamps being added cause I was paranoid & thought maybe I should, but nope, they really do stay on.

    Yeah I didn't post about it because I searched successfully (finally) but I did replace a power steering hose & learned how to bleed the air from that, etc. Finished that up on Sunday with a few more vacuum hoses replaced with new ones, too.

    Kid drove it 2 days (he's a lot harder on it than I ever am) and no problems. He did come home after the first trip & tell me the truck overheated --- my heart sank -- then he told me yeah but there was no water in the back so he couldn't add any -- omg --- so then I asked how hot did it get? To the red line or what?! He said, no, about 1/2 way on the guage. HAHAHA I exhaled & explained the gauge is accurate now, H means hot, 1/2 way is not overheated. WHEW! I Let the engine cool and made him come outside with me to open the radiator cap & see there was still full coolant/water in the radiator OH joyous moment to see his amazement Told him for 100% sure he doesn't have to add water anymore, explained it really is all fixed now

    I checked all the fluids tonight and the oil is down a bit, from midway on the stick between max & min, to just above min, so I tightened the nut and the filter (hand tight but I'm weak so hoping that's all it was). Either that or since he took it on the freeway (omg probably 60mph already) & around town putting about 200 miles on it in 2 days, all the remaining moisture/coolant/stuff left in the oil finally burned off & made the level a tad lower. I'll keep an eye on the oil and EVERYTHING else for a long long long time.

    So beyond happy it's all looking pretty darn good considering I'm just still learning about her & she's old, lol. *exhales* Next I'm going to clean house for a few days, my poor house is so dirty from me ignoring housework to deal with learning about & fixing the truck.

    Giant seriously big thank yous for the tips & such, hopefully will be a while before I ask more dumb questions

  18. #43

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    Glad to hear everything's working well. You might consider putting some Lucas Oil Stabilizer in it. If you're burning a bit of oil it can slow that down. http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives

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