Weber Carb Install Questions

[pennyman1]

It depends on the model carb you have and how the throttle bracket arm is installed. With Geronimo, his is in the front and rotates CCW (counter clock wise) on a DGEV. On a DFAV the throttle shaft rotates CW (clock wise) when mounted with the linkage on the back of the carb. If you mount the DFAV with the linkage in the front, then you have to flip the throttle bracket arm 180 degrees to get it to rotate clockwise. This confuses everyone - don't feel bad. They used to sell the DFAV carbs for the automatic truck conversions to make the linkage work like the original Mikuni with the kickdown linkage.

[BradMph]

That Port tube needs to be blocked off, there is a smaller port tube just in front (forward) and a bit higher up of that larger one. It has a flat head screw inserted in it. Take out the screw and plug the Distributor to that one. If you use the wrong one the distributor will be advance way too early and you will not get the timing correct if it is connected to that wrong one. You want the distributor to advance in the higher rpm, not at idle.
This is if you installed the carb with the choke on the drivers side of the vehicle. In the image below, you are looking at the usual drivers or left side of the carb as you are facing forward in your truck. Be careful to get this correct and to examine the image below to compare your installation. If you put your carb in on reverse, then it will be on the other side .
The spare tube that you end up blocking off can be used for a vacuum gauge which can help diagnose problems. This gauge can be installed full time and placed into the cab of the truck to also show your fuel usages or heavy foot driving. It's a productive gauge that rarely people use, but shows a lot about engine condition.




That diaphragm thing can be plugged on both ends. Or, removed and place a block plate over the EGR holes left behind when it is removed. Nice to have extra room under the hood.
carb.jpg

[Ramshorn]

Thanks for your input & advice guys! Cinnamon is back on the road and running better than ever!!! Since we didn't have a garage and there's about 10" of snow on the ground, I haven't done the electronic fuel pump yet. We did get the holley fuel press. reg. & fuel press. gauge installed though - fuel press. is steady just under 3psi.

Your feedback was very helpful! Still have a few other things to tidy up and what not but all-in-all this carb is a real game changer for Cinnamon! I'll get some pictures uploaded later today - I was so exciting after getting her running I forgot to take any pics, lol.

[BradMph]

Another success story goes into the record book for the forum. Minus the pictures...

Check your plugs down the road to make sure it is burning correctly. To lean or too rich, the plugs will show. Sounds like you got everything good though. You'll like the carb.

[originalowner]

That Port tube needs to be blocked off, there is a smaller port tube just in front (forward) and a bit higher up of that larger one. It has a flat head screw inserted in it. Take out the screw and plug the Distributor to that one. If you use the wrong one the distributor will be advance way too early and you will not get the timing correct if it is connected to that wrong one. You want the distributor to advance in the higher rpm, not at idle.
This is if you installed the carb with the choke on the drivers side of the vehicle. In the image below, you are looking at the usual drivers or left side of the carb as you are facing forward in your truck. Be careful to get this correct and to examine the image below to compare your installation. If you put your carb in on reverse, then it will be on the other side .
The spare tube that you end up blocking off can be used for a vacuum gauge which can help diagnose problems. This gauge can be installed full time and placed into the cab of the truck to also show your fuel usages or heavy foot driving. It's a productive gauge that rarely people use, but shows a lot about engine condition.




That diaphragm thing can be plugged on both ends. Or, removed and place a block plate over the EGR holes left behind when it is removed. Nice to have extra room under the hood.
carb.jpg

Thanks Brad, I had the advance hooked to the wrong port...

[Ramshorn]

Alright, here's the pics I promised..

As I mentioned, I'm still trying to decide where I want to register this truck and that will determine how much 'extra baggage' I can trim from under the hood for emissions testing. For this reason, you will notice a few parts still on the truck that many of you may have removed. I still have some clean up to do, but everything is running great!

image2.jpg

image3.jpg

Oddly enough when we plugged that little tree (with vacuum ports), it killed the truck. So we plugged a few of the factory vacuum lines back up (where applicable) and it actually helped the idle settle right down where it should without any adjustments to the carb! When we plugged the remaining two ports, it wanted to stall out. So we left those open.
image4.jpg

Staying steady just under 3 psi. But, the fittings for this suck! I had to wrap each thread about 3-4 times with thread tape so it wouldn't leak
image5.jpg

My only regret is not going with the electric choke. I'm going to have to order a heavy 'wire' style cable for the manual choke. The one Redline provides will open the choke, but doesn't have the strength to close it back up (when the cable has to push).

Thank you all for your help! I'll try to get a video up shortly of her running...

[originalowner]

Thanks Brad, I had the advance hooked to the wrong port...

I switched vacuum ports this morning and didn't notice any difference. In fact, I noticed that the non ported source seemed pull more vacuum than the ported source or the one that I had to remove the screw. That didn't make sense to me...*scratches head*

[originalowner]

Alright, here's the pics I promised..

As I mentioned, I'm still trying to decide where I want to register this truck and that will determine how much 'extra baggage' I can trim from under the hood for emissions testing. For this reason, you will notice a few parts still on the truck that many of you may have removed. I still have some clean up to do, but everything is running great!



image2.jpg

image3.jpg

Oddly enough when we plugged that little tree (with vacuum ports), it killed the truck. So we plugged a few of the factory vacuum lines back up (where applicable) and it actually helped the idle settle right down where it should without any adjustments to the carb! When we plugged the remaining two ports, it wanted to stall out. So we left those open.
image4.jpg

Staying steady just under 3 psi. But, the fittings for this suck! I had to wrap each thread about 3-4 times with thread tape so it wouldn't leak
image5.jpg

My only regret is not going with the electric choke. I'm going to have to order a heavy 'wire' style cable for the manual choke. The one Redline provides will open the choke, but doesn't have the strength to close it back up (when the cable has to push).

Thank you all for your help! I'll try to get a video up shortly of her running...

Congrats.

You can also go with a DGAV-'automatic' or coolant based choke. DGEV "electric' choke. DGV 'manual' choke.

Your own state emissions laws dictate what you have to have installed. I have to have that junk in place just to make a show for emissions inspection.

[BradMph]

I switched vacuum ports this morning and didn't notice any difference. In fact, I noticed that the non ported source seemed pull more vacuum than the ported source or the one that I had to remove the screw. That didn't make sense to me...*scratches head*

I had my distributor advance custom tuned during an engine rebuild and the shop that did the work specifically said not to use the manifold vacuum and block it up and I should always use the ported vacuum for these distributors.
You may try taking a timing light and leave the hose connected during the test. No pinching it or disconnecting it.
Start at idle and observe the timing on the pulley with the light. Begin to raise throttle watching the movement of the marks on the pulley. It should remain at the manufactures timing mark until the vacuum reaches it advance point for the distributor. Note the rpms the timing jumps.
Shut down motor, switch vacuum supplies and repeat the test making note of the rpms, vacuum and advance that the timed vacuum advances the distributor.

There is a relation between throttle position and advancing of the distributor with the weber carb and this should be maintained for the carb to perform correctly.


This will also depend on the condition of your distributor and the springs for the counter weights in the distributor.

[BradMph]

Are you suppose to use Teflon tape in a fuel related fitting? I just noticed you wrote tape to stop the leaking.
Teflon I don't think is a good idea to stop a fuel leak, might try gasket RTV silicon there instead. Those fittings should be tapered fittings. Be sure the fitting is 100% brass also. There are companies that have placed cheaper metal fittings in kits that are brass plated only. Pretty hard to tell they are plated unless you file a hidden area. Also, unless you bought them separate and they were in the brass fittings area of the store.
It got my attention when you said it leaked, that is why I questioned that part.

[pennyman1]

do not use teflon tape for fuel fittings, use teflon pipe dope instead. Tape can shread when putting the fitting in and clog the needle and seat or other parts of the carb...don't ask how I know...

[Ramshorn]

Thanks for your feedback on the thread tape! I'm pretty sure the fittings are 100% brass, I got them from Napa and they were twice as expensive as many others. They are not tapered though, and they sold me thread tape for these fitting!?? These fittings have been nothing short of a PITA to find, anybody who has this same set-up have any part #'s for the fittings they used? Maybe I should just call Holley and see what they say? I'll be sure to take them off and replace the tape with teflon pipe dope in the meantime.

Thanks again mates!

[pennyman1]

those fittings are metric and will not be tapered. The pipe dope will seal them - they need pipe dope to seal.

[kcminitrucker]

i plugged that extra coolent line cuz i couldnt find a place for it to go...

[88MightyMax]

Thanks Brad, I had the advance hooked to the wrong port...

I was looking through your pictures since I'm doing the same swap right now, and I think you might still have it hooked up wrong?

2015-03-28_1548.jpg

It looks like you're going from the carb, to the red nipple. I'm not sure what that is, but it isn't the vacuum advance on the distributor (green).

[pennyman1]

that thing at the red arrow is the egr valve - it is not the place to hook ported vacuum to.

[Ramshorn]

Someone who was helping me with the carb instal hooked that up, claiming it helped bring the idle down to 'normal'. I left it hooked up because I was dealing with emissions over the past couple weeks and wanted to everything to appear as if it was hooked up. Now I have that line spliced, going from the carb to the egr and distributer.

I know I can eliminate the EGR now but, I'm sill not sure why the truck ran so well without the line going to the distributer though? Any ideas?

[88MightyMax]

I'm sill not sure why the truck ran so well without the line going to the distributer though? Any ideas?

Because vacuum advance is only active during low throttle/high vacuum periods, typically while cruising down the highway. It helps the engine burn a little cleaner, and get a bit better mileage.

I can type a couple more paragraphs on how timing is used, if you're interested.

[Ramshorn]

Because vacuum advance is only active during low throttle/high vacuum periods, typically while cruising down the highway. It helps the engine burn a little cleaner, and get a bit better mileage.

I can type a couple more paragraphs on how timing is used, if you're interested.

Thanks for the info 88MM!

[camoit]

Spark advance is needed to keep the engine burn times in sync with the RPM. The faster the RPM or higher the compression the sooner the spark needs to ignite the fuel. With out advance you won't go very far very fast. Take my engine for an example. It wont run with out 12 degree of initial advance and 38 overall because of the higher compression. The advance port is only exposed to manifold vacuum after the throttle plate is opened, or off it's seat. That is why you see the advance port about 1/4 of the way up the carb. If you want to totally understand carb theory and how they work I would make a quick look through the manual section and then into the UTI training manuals. Then you will understand the hole concept about the carb and how it meters fuel delivery.

[Kerrigan]

I'm getting ready to do this swap to the Weber. Reading the instruction it seemed simple. Reading this thread, it seems as confusing as it can be; thought when done we are supposed to end up with 1 gas line going to it, one vacuum line for the distributor, and one for the crankcase breather, blocking off everything else from the stock setup!
This thread seems to be detailing there is a heck of a lot more "mods" and "work-arounds" than a clean straight install! Now considering just getting a new Summit rebuilt stock carb and slapping it on.

[Ramrod.50]

I know this thread is somewhat old but I could really use some help on a couple questions
1. This is one of the three fuel lines coming off the mech pump....what am I to do with this? (mech pump will have to stay until I can afford a elect one.
2. Is it okay for these two ports to be capped off?
3. This tree of vacuum ports, can it be removed and a bolt put it block this off?
1.jpg
4. This is the other fuel line. I imagine one is a return line but what is the other? and can they both be capped?
5. This line I capped off because I seen that done on another thread somewhere and it goes to a manifold that has something to do with cooling
2.jpg
6. I have not seen on any other thread what is supposed to go to this port on the carb and the instructions make no mention of it....wth!
3.jpg

[Kerrigan]

Isn't #6 the fuel inlet port?

[Kerrigan]

Read on another thread almost everything can be removed except the vacuum advance line, the fuel input port line, and the choke wire. Install an electric fuel pump (fuel pressure of 3 psi should be the max for the Weber,) and then the mechanical fuel pump can be removed and a block-off plate installed in its place. Put a fuel filter just before the carburetor. I put mine right after the fuel filter at the tank.
Removed lines and piping should be blocked off at the source. If you have strict pollution control regs and inspections this might all be a problem.

[pennyman1]

Hate to tell you this, but that carb is a knockoff weber - it will never work right. Before you try to run it, return it and get your money back. Those carbs are not worth a nickel - and don't let them tell you that it is a weber - if it has a black choke cover and the weber emblem is a sticker, or if it is an empi, its a knockoff. Webercarbsdirect is notorious for passing these off as webers - they are junk.