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Thread: Weber Carb Install Questions

  1. #1

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    Weber Carb Install Questions

    Good News - I got my new carb in yesterday and began the install today! Unfortunately, I got snowed out during the install (however I get to go ski powder tomorrow!). My one car garage is currently our storage unit... so my truck is parked out back So, this gives me a good opportunity to ask a few questions that I'm uncertain about. Please keep in mind this is my first carb replacement, so please try to be kind if I ask something stupid!

    The carb I ordered is from Redline Weber. It's the replacement kit for the g63b, standard trans., and has the manual choke (i'm trying to eliminate as many electric components as I can).

    1. Throttle cable hook-up: I'm a little confused here. The instructions show a 'throttle cable bracket' that should hold the throttle cable in place, but I don't see anything in my parts that looks like the picture in the instructions. The only thing close to what I see in the instructions is the lever/arm shown in the image below. I remember reading something on this forum about certain models of these carbs relocating the throttle cable to the front of the carb (closest to the front of the truck rather than the firewall) - is that what I am supposed to do?

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    2.Adapter plates: This probably goes hand-in-hand with my first question. Does this look like it's backwards? The instructions state, "...Install the universal adaptor noting the position of the carb for the cable operation". I assumed that since the throttle cable was near the back of the carb, the arm for the throttle cable on the adaptor plate should be closest to the firewall, no?

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    Here's a few more pics that might help?

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    At the end of the day, at least this pile of crap is no longer under the hood!

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    I sure wish the instructions from Weber cam with more images. I learn much easier through visuals.

    All feedback is appreciated!

  2. #2



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    The adaptor plate on the manifold is on backward - leg on the upper plate goes to outside of the manifold, just flip it 180. The bracket in the second pic goes on the valve cover, and the old cable mount that bolted onto the valve cover bolts on that bracket. That means you have to rotate the carb 180 to put the linkage to the front of the carb towards the rad. There should be a piece that has a hole with a nut that the cable goes through - you have to cut the lead end off that went into the old bracket to feed the cable into the fitting. Next time put a tarp over you and the truck so you don't get that snowed in feeling while you work...
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  3. #3

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    btw - all the little yellow stickers match the line to the fitting. I counted 31
    !

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    The adaptor plate on the manifold is on backward - leg on the upper plate goes to outside of the manifold, just flip it 180. The bracket in the second pic goes on the valve cover, and the old cable mount that bolted onto the valve cover bolts on that bracket. That means you have to rotate the carb 180 to put the linkage to the front of the carb towards the rad. There should be a piece that has a hole with a nut that the cable goes through - you have to cut the lead end off that went into the old bracket to feed the cable into the fitting. Next time put a tarp over you and the truck so you don't get that snowed in feeling while you work...
    Ahhhh, that seems to make sense! Not seeing any piece that has a hole w/ nut for the cable to go through though - assuming this should be a part from the new kit, right?

    I thought about making a little fort with a tarp to work under but the snow was coming in from all angles! Picture Forrest Gump when he's talking about it raining for days.. except snow, lol!

    Thanks pennyman - I'm going to try and get back at it after skiing tomo!

  5. #5



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    in pic #6 - there is the bracket with the holes in it - that is where the cable adaptor goes, and the return spring hooks to.
    Pennyman1
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    oh my look at the snow, lol. Throw a towel over that thing. When you connect the vacuum to the dizzy, it will be the ported connection in this image. You will most likely have to remove the tiny screw and block the other one next to it.
    Use the one most forward on the carb.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7

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    Thanks again guys - I probably wouldn't be attempting this on my own if it wasn't for your support, this is a great learning experience for me.

    Cheers!

  8. #8



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    the part I was referring to is shown on the install sheet at the bottom - it should have come with the kit.
    Pennyman1
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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    the part I was referring to is shown on the install sheet at the bottom - it should have come with the kit.
    This is starting to make more sense! Got in late last night from an epic day of skiing powder at Breck, and was able to flip the adapter plates around (that I prev. had on backwards), but it was still snowing to hard to to anything more. I might try to take a quick look this morning before heading into work, otherwise I'll be back at it tonight!

    Thanks for your help and patience!

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    in pic #6 - there is the bracket with the holes in it - that is where the cable adaptor goes, and the return spring hooks to.
    I got the cable adapter in place, but I don't see a return spring - at least not with the new kit. More importantly, I'm still not seeing the 'throttle cable bracket' as seen in the instructions (image 1 below). I was trying to find an image of what this whole set-up looks like installed (for reference) but couldn't. I did however find an old post from you saying, "Look up Geronimo in the Gallery for my engine bay pic for a front cable setup." However, I wasn't able to find this gallery? Anyway you could provide this image?

    I might end up jumping on the horn with Redline as well. Although I GREATLY appreciate all of your help, they offer customer support for people like me for a reason! I might as well take advantage of that.

    Thank

  11. #11

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    Forgot to upload the images, sorry...

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  12. #12



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    I would say if it wasn't in the box, you didn't get one. I am still trying to figure out what that bracket above the throttle linkage is for - it could clamp the end of the throttle cable sheath, but its in the wrong place.
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  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    I would say if it wasn't in the box, you didn't get one. I am still trying to figure out what that bracket above the throttle linkage is for - it could clamp the end of the throttle cable sheath, but its in the wrong place.
    If we're looking at the same bracket, that is for the choke. In pic #2 (in my post from 2/23), you can see the little post/screw with the hole in the middle, that is where the manual choke is.

    Also, I spoke with tech support from Redline tonight and they confirmed that my kit did not come with the throttle cable bracket. I am supposed to use the 'boomerang' mounted to the valve cover to reposition the throttle cable. He did give me the part # for that bracket and told me if I wanted to order one I could. I haven't completely hooked everything up yet, but it seems strange to me that the two nuts (seen in the pic below) on the throttle cable don't mount to a bracket (similar to factory) with this new kit? Pennyman - I believe you have a similar throttle cable set-up, correct? Can you confirm this?

    Click image for larger version. 

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  14. #14

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    Here's another kit I found that is very similar to mine, but he has the throttle cable bracket.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  15. #15

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    Here's a few pics of where I'm at today. Still confused about this throttle cable reposition, it appears to me that the throttle cable bracket is needed or I have the 'boomerang' hooked up incorrectly (which is totally possible). Using the boomerang alone - I'm not seeing any way the throttle cable will properly feed to the mounting bracket on the carb (with all the holes in it). the cable is way too close to the air filter and comes in at an angle. See pics..

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    Any insight is greatly appreciated!

  16. #16



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    I took my stock carb apart. Then tack welded the half round Cable connection doohickey to my Weber. This way The throttle actually rolls open
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  17. #17

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    I ended up buying this Backet kit because I really don't think that bracket is for g63b motor
    I got the same Boomerang bracket with my Weber kit as well .If you call the direct they will sell you just the bracket .
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/universal-li...fed13f&vxp=mtr
    Attached Images  

  18. #18



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    Seeing that on the g63b, the boomerang is not for it, but it does work for the 2.6. I think I posted the same or similar kit in the for sale threads.
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  19. #19

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    I also emailed these pics to Redline this afternoon and at first they tried to claim that I had the boomerang hooked up wrong - then called to tell me that was false and this part was not compatible with my motor. I just wish they would have told me this when I ordered the carb from the beginning, ya know? So, I will most likely end up ordering the bracket from Redline in the morning.

    Anyway, I really appreciate everyone's feedback. Camoit - your solution seems like a great idea. I'll probably try to work on that once I get through the initial installation of the carb and fuel pump. Really getting pumped about getting her running good again!

  20. #20

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    Good News - I got the throttle cable mounting bracket from Weber!

    However, I could use a little help/advice. I've got the new carb in place but I'm a little confused as to what goes where when hooking everything back up - my apologies for being amateur hour! Here's what I'm looking for some help with:

    1 & 2 (circled in red) - Just want to confirm that these can both be removed
    3 (circled in red) - This either needs to run into the plastic inlet on the bottom of the new air filter or put a breather on it, correct?
    Attachment 13275

    4. This definitely looks like coolant but I'm not sure where it hooks back up to the new carb? Maybe nipple in pic#6?
    Attachment 13276

    5. I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that are coming out of the bottom of the manual fuel pump, correct? If so, I only see one area on the backside of the carb (closest to firewall) where I would hook up ONE, not both. I have read several people discuss these carbs NEEDING a fuel return - can someone offer some guidance here??
    Attachment 13277

    By feel, this is what the two hoses above are coming off of and what I believe to be the manual fuel pump, correct?
    Attachment 13278

    Most are familiar with this, but I've got 3 ports on the back of the carb. Bottom side is plugged (based on instructions), one male end to connect the fuel line (right?), and one female side not threaded (not sure what the purpose of this one is?).
    Attachment 13279 Attachment 13280

    6. What gets hooked up to this nipple (circled in red)?
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    7. What is this and can it be removed? I've seen people plug the hole, but can I remove it entirely and use a block off plate?
    Attachment 13281

    A ordered a chilton manual for the truck but it's still not here, my apologies for asking some of these newb questions that are probably covered in the manual. And since the weber instructions don't feature many images for reference, I'm doing my best!

    Thanks in advance!

  21. #21

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    Sorry about the missing images in the above post. It appears that they may have exceeded a size limit so I broke them down below.
    Last edited by Ramshorn; 02-28-2015 at 07:08 PM.

  22. #22

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    OK, I just downsized all the images and I'm going to try this one more time (fingers crossed)...

    1 & 2 (circled in red) - Just want to confirm that these can both be removed
    3 (circled in red) - This either needs to run into the plastic inlet on the bottom of the new air filter or put a breather on it, correct?
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    4. This definitely looks like coolant but I'm not sure where it hooks back up to the new carb? Maybe nipple in pic#6?
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  23. #23

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    5. I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that are coming out of the bottom of the manual fuel pump, correct? If so, I only see one area on the backside of the carb (closest to firewall) where I would hook up ONE, not both. I have read several people discuss these carbs NEEDING a fuel return - can someone offer some guidance here??
    Click image for larger version. 

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    By feel, this is what the two hoses above are coming off of and what I believe to be the manual fuel pump, correct?
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    Most are familiar with this, but I've got 3 ports on the back of the carb. Bottom side is plugged (based on instructions), one male end to connect the fuel line (right?), and one female side not threaded (not sure what the purpose of this one is?).
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  24. #24

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    6. What gets hooked up to this nipple (circled in red)?
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    7. What is this and can it be removed? I've seen people plug the hole, but can I remove it entirely and use a block off plate?
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  25. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ramshorn View Post
    Good News - I got the throttle cable mounting bracket from Weber!

    However, I could use a little help/advice. I've got the new carb in place but I'm a little confused as to what goes where when hooking everything back up - my apologies for being amateur hour! Here's what I'm looking for some help with:

    1 & 2 (circled in red) - Just want to confirm that these can both be removed
    3 (circled in red) - This either needs to run into the plastic inlet on the bottom of the new air filter or put a breather on it, correct?
    Attachment 13275

    The 2.6 is different but you are referring to crankcase ventilation I think. The hose goes from the valve cover to the base of the air filter, yes.

    4. This definitely looks like coolant but I'm not sure where it hooks back up to the new carb? Maybe nipple in pic#6?
    Attachment 13276

    5. I'm pretty sure these are the fuel lines that are coming out of the bottom of the manual fuel pump, correct? If so, I only see one area on the backside of the carb (closest to firewall) where I would hook up ONE, not both. I have read several people discuss these carbs NEEDING a fuel return - can someone offer some guidance here??
    Attachment 13277

    I will try to answer what I can cipher from the pics. There are two "inlets" to the fuel bowl. Hook up the fuel supply line to one. Hook up the fuel return line back to the fuel tank to the other. You are essentially removing the EVAP canister from the system, and will allow the return line to keep the fuel bowl from overfilling.

    By feel, this is what the two hoses above are coming off of and what I believe to be the manual fuel pump, correct?
    Attachment 13278

    Most are familiar with this, but I've got 3 ports on the back of the carb. Bottom side is plugged (based on instructions), one male end to connect the fuel line (right?), and one female side not threaded (not sure what the purpose of this one is?).
    Attachment 13279 Attachment 13280

    The female side that is not threaded is just a vent to the atmosphere. Nothing hooks up to it.

    6. What gets hooked up to this nipple (circled in red)?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Run a rubber vacuum line to the distributor vacuum advance. That's what that port is for.

    Hard to tell from the picks, but if it is a nipple on the intake, it gets plugged off. The factory carb was heated by engine coolant, but the Weber is not. It has to be plugged.

    7. What is this and can it be removed? I've seen people plug the hole, but can I remove it entirely and use a block off plate?
    Attachment 13281

    That is the EGR. Plug it off or remove it.

    A ordered a chilton manual for the truck but it's still not here, my apologies for asking some of these newb questions that are probably covered in the manual. And since the weber instructions don't feature many images for reference, I'm doing my best!

    Thanks in advance!
    Mine is installed with the throttle cable on the backside (firewall) side. Note that these carbs are for many different car, trucks all kinds of applications really. That's why you can end up with different stuff in the various kits.

    I have a question for Pennyman...how can one install the throttle cable on the "front" and it work properly? If you rotate the carb 180 deg how can the cable 'pull' the throttle open? What am I missing and am I being a dumb ass?

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