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Thread: think I have ignition problems

  1. #1

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    think I have ignition problems

    I finally got the carb and electronic fuel pump put kind of on to do some testing on if the truck actually runs, it will turn over and fire off for a second, I'm thinking it doesn't have a powerful spark but I don't know, I'm going to do a compression test today, but here is what I found


  2. #2

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    found the problem

  3. #3




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    don't just toss that cat - it is worth 3 times what the new cats are worth in scrap - enough to get a new one to put on downstream. That cat was a cartridge that originally dropped out when the truck was new. I got $85 for Geronimo's cat years ago - they are worth far more now.
    Pennyman1
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  4. #4

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    Well I kinda screwed the pooch on that deal as I already blew out the cat

  5. #5




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    but did it run better without the cat?
    Pennyman1
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  6. #6

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    It actually ran lol, it did not before I took off the cat

  7. #7

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    Now, I think I really do have ignition problems, it started just fine the other day, then go to start it again and nothing, I tested, have voltage to the coil, the coil tests just about 8500 on the big end, I read they should be closer to 11, I don't know how to check the module pick up thing or were resistance should be in good range

  8. #8



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    I have a few documents on coil and module testing. I'll see if I can find something for you to use.


    SYSTEM TEST
    1.Check for spark at the spark plugs. Refer to the spark test.
    2.Check all wiring and plastic connectors for tight and proper attachment.
    3.With an ohmmeter, check between the positive (+) and negative (−) primary terminals of the ignition coil. The resistance (cold) should be 1.3–1.7 ohms. Between the (+) primary terminal and the high tension terminal, the resistance (cold) should be 12–16 kilo ohms. The insulation resistance between the (+) primary terminal and the ignition coil case should be infinite.
    4.The resistor wire (brown and yellow) resistance should be 1.2 ohms (cold). To measure, separate the plastic connector at the igniter and attach one wire of the ohmmeter to the yellow wire and one to the brown.
    5.Remove the distributor cap and ignition rotor. Check the air gap between the timing rotor spoke and the pick-up coil. When aligned, the air gap should be 0.008–0.016 inches (0.203–0.406mm). You will probably have to bump the engine around with the starter to line up the timing rotor. Unplug the distributor connector at the distributor. Connect one wire of the ohmmeter to the white wire, and one wire to the pink wire. The resistance of the signal generator should be 130–190 ohms.
    6.Checking the igniter last, connect the (−) voltmeter wire to the (−) ignition coil primary terminal, and the (+) voltmeter wire to the yellow resistor wire. With the ignition switch turned to ON the voltage should measure 12 volts. Check the voltage between the (−) ignition coil primary terminal and the yellow resistor wire again, but this time use the ohmmeter as resistance. Using the igniter end of the distributor connector, connect the positive (+) ohmmeter wire to the pink distributor wire, and the negative (−) ohmmeter wire to the white wire.
    WARNING
    Do not intermix the (+) and (−) terminals of the ohmmeter.


    7.Select either the 1 ohm; or 10 ohm; range of the ohmmeter. With the voltmeter connected as in Step 6, and the ignition switch turned to ON, the voltage should measure nearly zero.

  9. #9




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    for number 7 - you mean 1 VDC or 10 VDC, not ohms ...
    Pennyman1
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  10. #10

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    Thank you fellows! I will get to checking

  11. #11

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    So, I just read that, and I am wondering, mine doesnt have an igniter, or a plug to unplug the diary, it goes strait to the coil, is there something a little more specific to mine? Its an 82

  12. #12




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    there should be an ignition module on the side of the dizzy that the wires plug into - if there is not and you only have the module in your previous pic, then someone swapped the dizzy with a newer one
    Pennyman1
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