Smart man. Check my sig.
Smart man. Check my sig.
Hahaha well you were right about C105 though and half right on C104! But your info was super helpful. Thanks man!!Originally Posted by noahwins
Smart man. Check my sig.
Awesome, Thanks for the info on that! I didnt know I could do that!
For best results get as close as you can on the uF rating - voltage can be higher. The uF rating tunes the circuit, so that needs to be close and preferably exact.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Ok, I'll definiently make sure I get the same uF rating. I hope they have it at radioshack lol, thats the only place i know of by me that sells electronic components! Thanks man!
<--- Blind as a bat.
This fix is satisfying as hell. When you start it up the truck just -- works.
Nice to see someone actually taking a plunge into a ECU. Not that I can.
Are these the one you need.
http://www.radioshack.com/nte-nev47m50cb-cap-47uf-50v-radial/55047282.html?utm_source=GooglePLA&utm_medium=pla& utm_term=55047282&cid=iPLA:RSO:Google&gclid=CIng3fufmsMCFYdjfgodjbsA8Q&gcl src=ds#.VLns4TDogg8
http://www.radioshack.com/nte-nev100...l#.VLntGDDogg8
I hope it helps?
Yes,those are the exact ones!! Thank you! Do not a lot of people dive into the ECU's?
I noticed that when I out it back in before i went to replace the caps. Truck just started!
You can check Fry's electronics also
Many of us just have the ECU as a paper weight now. Especially smog exempt trucks with weber carbs or a header. Or they been switched out for an engine change
Oh I didnt know the ECU's were that big of an issue, maybe I should start rebuilding them and sell them on the cheap side.
Progress accomplished today so far:
Put the truck back together (timing, timing cover, fan, belts, etc) and I picked up/ installed the new capacitors that I got from micro center right down the road from my work and shop! same exact specs to. Now im just letting the ECU dry before I hummi-seal it. Also the de-soldering tool I got from radio shack is awesome, has a heated tip that melts the solder and sucks it up! made the job very easy. More updates coming later today!
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Update: Ecu is now back in and it works!! The truck now runs way smoother and has no misfires any more but its hard to start and once started the idle shoots way up and stays high. Sounds like its getting to much air or something is out of wack sensor wise. Any idea on what It could be that is causing that? any common known issues that cause that? I went ahead a bought a new pcv and coolant temp sensor, will install and see what happens today or tomorrow. Any other info is greatly appreciated!!
P.S. Truck looks good outside and it drives well minus the issue stated above.
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Great!
There are two coolant temp sensors, the 2 prong one that goes to the ECU and the single prong one that goes to the gauge. If that doesn't work, check for vacuum leaks and test the MAF and TPS with a multimeter. I don't remember the resistances but they're in the Manuals forum somewhere. The pdf of the Haynes manual has them I think.
Awesome! I got the one that goes to the Ecu and ok Ill look up the specs and test them tomorrow! Im hoping its just the coolant temp sensor...I hear MAF and TPS sensors are expensive...
Two things to remember, 1. After disconnection, your ecu needs to run at idle for a while so it can run its tests and make its adjustments, especially if maintenance has been done. 2. There is an idle control that should be adjusted after maintenance. Easiest to set if you know someone with the old obd1 scan tools.
1990 MM 4x4 3.0
1991 MM 4x4 3.0 Diamonte
1994 MM 2wd (work in progress)
Ok I'll do that, also do you know where I can find an obd1 scan tool?
You can use a voltmeter or DroppedMitsu's Radio Shack buzzer. It's in the wiki. OBD1 is crude, you count pulses the ECU sends out and then look up the numbers in a table.
Update: Found my idle issue...adjustment screw was all the way in (hur-dur!!) Also replaced the the 2 prong coolant temp sensor, replaced fuel filter, Checked tps (5.4k ohms), maf is good, no vacuum leaks, and put 5 gal of fresh gas in it. Here comes the not so good news, truck is still hard to start when cold but once warm. It runs fine like it was new, Kinda stumped on this, going to check plug gaps tomorrow or later in the week. Kinda learning towards o2 sensor but what else could cause this issue? any insight would be tremendous!
Your going to have a nice truck pretty soon.
Check to be sure you are using the 3rd wire for the starter. I had similar issues and it was low voltage during the initial startup. Hard when cold to start and flooded easy and easier to start when warm. I fixed my 3rd wire by connecting it up the way it was suppose to be and installed a diode and it cranks a hell of alot faster and instantly starts up like it use to. Had that starting issue for friggin years when an autoparts clerk said I didn't need the 3rd wire on starter. Worked fine for a long time then it acted up. Found the wire taped up and reconnected it during a rebuild.
Weak battery or bad ground for the starter?
I will check for that wire and see what all is going on there and make sure the grounds and everything to the starter are correct. Also going to check ignition timing to make sure its ok and in spec.
Battery is brand new and starter ground seems to be ok.
In one word " SEAFOAM" TallBlackGuy this is amazing stuff!!!!
Update: Truck is fixed and running well! Previous owner had the ignition timing way out of wack. Reset that and the truck is running excellent. Now on to saving money for the drop!
I have 3 cans of that stuff and I'm definitely going to use it! I LOVE SEAFOAM!!
here is a link to a lowering kit for a good price http://www.thesuspensionsource.com/t...-5-f-3-r-drop/
[QUOTE=Rahtid;37758]here is a link to a lowering kit for a good price http://www.thesuspensionsource.com/t...op/[/QUOTE]
Good find on price! Do you know where I can get drop spindles besides from amazon?
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