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Thread: bumpstops/suspension travel

  1. #1

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    bumpstops/suspension travel

    I have a 91 Dodge Ram 50. I would like to lower my truck 2 inches in the front and 3 in the black. I have read online that it is important that you cut the original bumpstop or install new low profile bumpstops or it will limit suspension travel. I'm kind of new to the whole lowering vehicles thing. Where is the bumpstops located on my truck?(any pics will be greatly appreciated) are there bumpstops in the front and rear or just the rear?

    the reason I ask this is because where I live, modified vehicles must pass a safety criteria, and one of the main things they check for is suspension travel( 1 inch up and 1 inch down), and the vehicle must have bumstops. I don't want the stock bumpstops to affect the suspension travel.

    i also thought I'd throw this out...ANYBODY SELLING ANY 3 INCH DROP BLOCKS AND 2 INCH LOWERED SPRINGS FOR CHEAP?

    any help is greatly appreciated

  2. #2



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    I have an 86 and when I had it lowered they cut the front bump stops in half and cut a coil off the springs so they would still fit in the trays after lowering.
    On the back, there was 2 inch blocks installed between the leafs and the axel and no leafs were removed.
    Once this work was completed, you will need to get some stiffer shocks. There are different types available, but I went with KYBs. They help with return bump on the front so it doesn't bang the bumps stops so terribly. You will have to change your driving habits to compensate for a short shock travel truck, it's just normal when you take shock travel away from the truck. The rear never has any issues with any bumping or stuff. Though tires need to fit into the wells or you will cut them. That's simple stuff and the rear of the truck is a piece of cake. The front it where all the issues can happen if you decide to cut too much. Drop spindles would be the ultimate benefit for the front and would give good travel, but they still don't make the ground any softer if you really chop over a speed bump to fast. Get the rear done to your liking, 2in maybe 3 inch blocks. 2 inch blocks lowered mine more then 2 inches, so beware. Have the shocks also so you can reinforce the suspension to a point.
    Then go after the front and start with one coil round and check the stance. Take it for a soft ride and see if you can put up with it that way. Lowered trucks can be a pain sometimes and like I said, your driving habits will change to protect the front end the most. The Mitsubishi truck it pretty tuff though and should last if taking care of. Use Zerk fittings on all the ball joints and tie rod ends and stuff. Maybe install polyurethane red bushing also to get it as tight as can be. Then go get the truck aligned.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...chmentid=12304

  3. #3

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    They sell 3 inch blocks and U bolts at Pep Boyd for like $30 and you can cut a coil for a 2" drop for free. But like Brad said you'll need lowering shocks or else it will ride funny and you'll chew through tires without a re-alignment.

  4. #4




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    The easiest way to fix the bumpstops is to cut them with a hacksaw, both front and rear. As an alternative, you could remove the rear axle bumpstops and replace them with frame mounted ones that are shorter. In the front, if you are going with a 2 inch drop, you can correct the shorter shock issue with using longer bolts on the lower shock bolts and putting a spacer between the shock and the lower control arm. This will lenghten the shock so it does not bottom out as easily. The rear does not have an easy fix like the front.
    Pennyman1
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  5. #5

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    Thanks for the info. guys, but like I said, in hawaii modified cars are only to be driven after it has passed a safety test. The safety criteria is super strict, because in my opinion they are just trying to stop modified vehicles from being driven. So my question is do they sell any low profile bumpstops for mighty max or ram50? I am not 100% sure but I think they won't pass you if you just cut the bumpstop in half, don't know the reason but thats just what I heard. I am also unable to do any modifications to frame so welding on a bracket with a bumpstop is out of the question because they will only accept welded parts done by a certified welder. This whole sytem for modified cars here is a pain

    where is the bumpstops on my truck?

  6. #6




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    In the front, the bumpstop is on the LCA and the bolts attach the strut rod to the frame from the LCA. In the rear, I drilled and nutserted the bumpstops to the frame. The issue in the front is that the bolts for the bumpstop are at the corners of the stop, and just bolting regular stops in the holes will not line up well with the frame and would fail the inspection. You could get a stop like I used in the rear of Geronimo and make a new mounting plate for the stop in the front, but remember if they really look at the angles of the ball joints, they will see an overextension of the lower ball joint at full compression if the stop is too short. That can only be fixed with the lower ball joint mount being reangled to compensate, or using heim type joints like lifted 4wds use.
    Pennyman1
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  7. #7




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    Here's a link on ebay for a set of bump stops that could be modded to work and the price is right: http://www.ebay.com/itm/171235912556...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
    Pennyman1
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  8. #8

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    Energy Suspension sells a slew of custom bumpstops in their PDF catalog.

    http://energysuspension.com/assets/f...on-catalog.pdf

    You can't modify your own property? What happened to freedom of expression?

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