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Thread: Jumping off the Cliff (w/ NO dark background so you can READ the bloody thing)

  1. #1

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    Jumping off the Cliff (w/ NO dark background so you can READ the bloody thing)

    1990 Dodge Ram 50 exhaust manifold replacement.

    My attitude, and goal, is to: 1.) use any methodology to my advantage that I can afford; that will, 2.) put the odds in my favor so that when I finish the install, I won't have a leaky exhaust manifold. I don't mind performing a bit of "overkill" if it might give me a percentage or two or three better chance of the manifold *not* leaking.

    But I'm also interested ( ! ) in any opinion regarding what you might consider overkill that might be *detrimental* to my goal of a non-leaking manifold.
    a.) I have a new exhaust-manifold gasket and bought some Permatex Copper. I couldn't afford a Roloc kit, so unless I get some grief about this from forum members, I plan on using both the gasket, and the Permatex Copper [conservatively]. Is that "overkill but OK," or "unwise."

    b.) I have the faces of the manifold clean down to the circular milling marks -- for the *most* part -- but still have a *bit* of carbon left in spots. Can I use a Dremel POLISH bit to remove those if done carefully? If "unwise," please tell me so.

    c.) replacing one head-to-exhaust-manifold stud. Should I use any chemical goop of whatever sort for whatever reason when I thread it into the head?

    By the way, I've been using Kroil Penetrating oil on this job -- stellar stuff.

    Thanks for ALL the suggestions and help I've received the last couple of months or so. The more I've learned from all of you and the more I've worked on "Bob" [in tribute to Sen. Robert "Bob" Dole] the more I've become enchanted by these small trucks. All due to YOU people.

  2. #2

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  3. #3


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    No reason to use any goop on a exhaust Stud, it'l' get burnt off anyway and just make it that much harder to replace again if needed.

    Don't go working on the surfaces with a Dremel, you will create low/high spots on the surface, best way is to use some sandpaper and a straight piece of bar stock metal or wood, to keep thing fairly even. The permatex copper will fill the gaps nicely. yes, torque evenly.

  4. #4

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    Noahwins and LSR Mike:


    1. OK, no Dremel. I thought a polish bit would be less harsh than sandpaper, but apparently not. Since I have most of the carbon removed, any suggestion as to grit? (I have 80 grit, but am going into town tomorrow and can buy something more appropriate.)


    2. To which surface(s) would it be best for me to apply the Permatex Copper?


    3. And got the torque wrench covered. I'm anal about using a torque wrench in such circumstances.


    S i n c e r e t h a n k s t o y o u b o t h !

  5. #5


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    light coating on both sides of the gasket with the permatex, I usually use 220 grit, unles it is really bad. just enough to clean it up.

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