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Thread: about to burn it

  1. #1

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    1988 Dodge Ram 50
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    about to burn it

    OK guys I'm about done with this thing. I bought this 88 ram 50 2.6 a/t 2wd a few months ago with a timing chain rattle on decel. Turned out to be a broken guide on the auxiliary chain so put in an eliminator kit, rattle fixed. My main issue is when I put it in gear( rev or drive) and try to accelerate it will not rev at all just this grand sucking sound. So far what I've done is this: new main timing chain set, different distributor, hotter coil and 8mm wires, egr delete, new intake gasket, rebuilt and installed weber 32/36 dgav, carter p4070 pump and a regulator(4psi @carb) also 2 sets of plugs and made sure ign timing was at 10deg advanced. Also compression test all 4 cyl at 130 psi. The weber I took off was a new age one that just dumped fuel on the primary main circuit. Not sure about that one yet. Also I checked my lash at the jet valves and they were at .010 on spec. What am I missing here. Best I can tell the head hasn't been surfaced but did note some welding on the rail right above the intake where the valve cover gasket seals. Maybe a internal vacuum leak between intake runners? I'm at a loss. I've had some serious battles with automobiles in the past but not like this. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2



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    1986 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    TIMING IS 7 degrees BTDC, atleast thats what mine was changed to by the manufacture. Are your other rockers adjustable or just the MCA jet vavles. Different distributor? Hotter coil? we need details on these...

    Anyways, the 3 things you need to concentrate on specifically, SPARK, FUEL, Mechanical

    Here's a flow chart I found.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3

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    1988 Dodge Ram 50
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    The distributor was just another factory one and the coil is a accel super street and the rockers are factory with hydraulic lash adjusters. I forgot to mention that before I tore this thing down I checked the ign timing at idle was so far advanced I have to estimate it at 25deg advanced. I'll check out that flow chart

  4. #4



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    is the weber real or a chinese copy - if its shiny, its a copy and that could be the vacuum leak.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  5. #5

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    The weber that was on the truck when I got it was a shiney one but the one I built is an older original .

  6. #6



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    take the adaptor off the manifold and make sure there are gaskets between the plates, the manifold, and the carb. also look for stuff that should not be there - put Geronimo's engine back in after we painted the motor, and forgot that the washers for the carb were under the carb base gasket and bolted down the carb - that was some gasket leak. Found that when I went to disassemble the adaptor - even my friend that tuned the carb for me missed it.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  7. #7

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    Turns out I had a few vacuum leaks so I got those fixed plus its sucking around the throttle shafts in the bottom of the carb. I need bushings now. Thanks guys for the input I believe I'm really close now.

  8. #8



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    They always leek around the shafts. Normally it's not enough to worry about.
    Also if it has the MCA jets you should drop in an elimination kit.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Check out the Fear Monger by
    clicking HERE.

    The MightyRam50 site is sponsored in part by On Site Concrete Inc.

  9. #9



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    there are seals that are teflon you can use to seal the shafts, but if its too bad you either have to bore and put in new shaft bearings, or get a better body for the carb. Too bad the shiny one cannot be made to work, but they are such a bad copy that it can't be fixed.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

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