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Thread: 4G64 Turbo Kits

  1. #1


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    4G64/G63 Turbo Kits

    I've had a couple members ask me if I can build a bolt-on turbo kit for the 2.4 MM. The answer is YES.
    The ultimate question is "Who else would be interested?"

    Reason I am asking is because a single bolt-on turbo kit with a warranty would run just shy of $4K shipped. That's more than most people want to pay, and I understand that. With enough buyers, I can drive the price down significantly because buying bulk material and building it all at once is much cheaper for me to do instead of trying to schedule a few kits to be built at different times.

    Here is what the turbo kit would include:
    - 304 Stainless Steel Tubular Manifold (USA made, Lifetime Warranty)
    - Turbonetics T04E-.48 (small T3/T4)
    - 8 PSI wastegate
    - Bolt-on 304 Stainless 2.5" down pipe (USA made, Lifetime Warranty - bolts directly from Turbo to MM cat)
    - 3" aluminum intake with MAF adapter and BOV recirculation port (USA made, Lifetime Warranty)
    - 2.5" aluminum intercooler piping 100% bolt-on to your truck (USA made, Lifetime Warranty)
    - Type S BOV for recirculating (includes BOV recirculation hose to eliminate idle fumbling)
    - Front mount intercooler with brackets for bolting to the MM
    - 5 layer silicone couplers (your choice of color)
    - Stainless steel T-bolt clamps
    - Boost gauge
    - All necessary hardware for installation.

    There will be very mild trimming and cutting involved to fit the intercooler and piping, but it is a completely bolt-on system otherwise. Instructions will also be included as well as a dedicated line for tech support.

    If you have a carby by G63, we can build the turbo kit to fit as well. You will need to source a few extra parts (PM or post for details).

    I can offer pricing as follows
    2 kits - $3,200 shipped each
    4 kits - $2,700 shipped each
    6 Kits - $2,200 shipped each
    7+ kits - $2,000 shipped each

    If there are more than 10, I can probably get them below $2k. Turn around time will vary based on the amount of buyers, but generally speaking, first kits would ship out 2-4 weeks from date of deposit. They generally take 3-7 days to arrive after final payment has been received.

    While this is a 100% bolt-on kit, you will need to source additional components for tuning and what not. Larger injectors, fuel pressure regulators, piggy back management systems, etc. may need to be used. There are dozens of ways to modify your tuning from mild to very extreme. It all depends on your tuner. 8 PSI in the performance world is considered "safe boost" to a NA engine. The better tuning you add, the more it can take. I know these engines can take a bunch of boost without modding internals.

    In addition, this will need to be completed BEFORE I perform my engine swap. The reason is because I am using my truck as a jig to ensure 100% fitment with every kit. After the swap, I will need to find another truck if people were interested. That would translate into even more money for each kit.

    This is just an info post. Expressing interest does NOT obligate you to buy, and I will not hassle you like a commissioned salesman. If you would like more info, please post here or PM me directly for more info.
    Last edited by Merrill; 11-12-2014 at 12:28 PM.

  2. #2

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    What are you planning on using for engine management?

    And is this for the 6 bolt 2.4 (paired port) or the 7 bolt? I'm asking if it could fit on a G63B.

  3. #3


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    EMS is up to the end user. Simple solutions are upgraded FPR and injectors. Greater solutions are piggy back units (like SAFC, E-Manage, etc.). Advanced systems are ECU swaps, chipping (only some ECU's can be), or complete stand alone. Its all up to the end user to decide how far they really want to push it. A simple fuel pressure regulator will be safe as long as the timing is not too radically advanced and better fuel is used. It would be wise to add a wideband to your system as well to ensure proper tuning at whatever level the end user chooses.

    This is for the Paired Port heads. The manifold will fit on a 2.0 head, but will not be set to bolt up to a carby intake. If you converted your carby to FI using 4G64 components, you'd be good to go as a bolt-on system. This can be modified to fit, but that is also up to the end user. I can help fit it to just about anything, but can't guarantee it 100% like I can with the 4G64.

  4. #4


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    Anyone else?

  5. #5

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    I'm definitely interested. Do you know roughly what the gains will be from simple-extreme?

  6. #6

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    K&N makes a turbo plenum for the Weber 32/36. I wonder if with one extra bend this kit would work for carby guys. You'd have to prep the carb for boost though.

  7. #7


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    Gains can be anywhere between 50-150 HP depending on EMS, tuning, internal upgrades, and more. The sky is the limit. I usually tell my clients to get their foundation in place (basic turbo kit), then build on it. This particular kit will have a limit of about 500 HP.

    The Weber plenum adapter should be a single bolt which means it can be pointed to the passenger side just as the 2.4 turbo kit would be set up. It only takes a different adapter and possibly longer intercooler tube to meet it. I can absolutely adapt this kit to that setup. I would need a few measurements, but that's easy if someone has the plenum. The carb would need a bit of adjustment, but that's not terribly complicated to do.

  8. #8

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    I know I have a spare junk intake mani. I might still have a junk Chinese Weber, I'll have to check. I was going to pick up that K&N plenum anyway. I can ship that stuff to you to use as a jig.
    I suggest making a few extra kits and putting them on eBay so the Kiwis and Aussies are exposed to them. Or at least gauge interest in them on their message boards. They seem to love turbo carby setups down there. Maybe Geezer would know what the market is like.

  9. #9


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    I changed the title here and noted the ability to adapt to the carby owners. There are only a couple differences and parts not needed for the carby setups (like a MAF adapter), but it's relatively the same setup.

    The only reason I am offering in group buy is to not sit on stock. I'm sure someone at some point will buy a kit or two from my eBay store, but it costs me money to have it sitting on the shelf. I was considering a short manufacturing run, but it's just too much for me to sit on and wait for a sale. I'd rather offer some good deals and offer in a group buy.

    All I really need for the carby setup is some pics and measurements. As long as you can provide them, I'll get it right. I've built custom parts for people around the world using the same methods.

    Posting to other boards is great. Only problem is it is extremely difficult to manage all the orders that way. I'm also not on many boards at all - I'm just a builder. Anyone is welcome to post info and bring people to this post so I can manage orders and info posts better. It's just easier and more accurate.

    If anyone wants a turbo kit for a RHD, I also need many pics, measurements and details for it. The last thing I want is to send a bunch of parts across the waters and have them not fit correctly.

  10. #10


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    The EMS is an issue...for mine, I snagged the throttlebody, nad Coil from an eclipse, and used the AEM Unit for a Turbo Eclipse.
    I had to add some wiring for the dual coil but it eliminated the distributor cap. the CAS is built into the base of the distributor. The wiring harness and pinouts are the same as an eclipse.. Oh yeah, Fuel injected 1992 4G64 6 bolt. you WILL need bigger injectors and a good tuner to get it up to snuff.

    and any 4G64 turbo discussion by me must have the obligatory picture :-)



    also, a note for Merrill notice in the below pix the brace coming off the motor mount to the Turbo flange to support the weight and relive the stress on the piping.



    good luck guys!
    Last edited by LSR Mike; 11-12-2014 at 02:51 PM.

  11. #11

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    Mike in you opinion is it even worth it to attempt this on a carb? I like the carb for sinplicity's sake and I hate visible wiring in engine bays. But I would ditch the distributor for Ford EDIS and Mega Jolt so it doesn't break up at higher RPM. EDIS would be safer for the engine, too -- we only have 91 octane in California.

  12. #12



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    If you set the carb up right it will work fine. If you really want to go old school, do a dcoe in a draw through setup, with the carb in front of the turbo: that is what I may do with the conquest motor I am building, if I don't go magna fi intake modded for rwd and megasquirt / edis setup.
    Pennyman1
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  13. #13


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    There are 2 big reasons why this kit could not be used for a draw through.

    The first is the turbo. Turbonetics turbos use dynamic seals which means they will basically blow soon after you fire up the engine. You could get it rebuilt with the correct carbon seal, but that's more money spent.

    The second thing is the intercooler. Technically, there isn't an intercooler that could/should be used with a draw through system because the gas will pool/puddle/build up inside. Sooner or later.... boom.

    I suggest many contribute their opinions to boosting a carby engine. Personally, I'd do it if I wanted to, but I wouldn't do a draw through system.

  14. #14


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    Draw Thru is the easiest way to turbo a carb motor.. and carb is the easiest to set up. but yes, your turbo must be correct and you don't use an intercooler, but at 8 lb's I don't see the need for an intercooler IMHO but it looks good!

  15. #15

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    well you guys do know that everywhere else in the world got the turbo G63B in the starions/conquests from the factory. some other Mitsubishi cars got it too (model name depends on the country)


    and if i was going to be putting a turbo kit on the SOHC engines, those people abroad are the first ones i would be talking to. because they have already done the turbo thing to DEATH over there

  16. #16

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    I didn't know they came factory turboed. Cool.

    I do have the old fake carb and a spare intake mani you can use as a jig. I'm not sure if I'd be precise enough with a ruler. LMK

    I was reading an Australian board (Turbo Gemini) and they recommended using a 32/36 with plastic, not brass, floats because the brass ones collapse. Surprised me, I thought it'd be the other way around. Still looking around for a definitive list of mods to be made to the carb for blow through. If I don't find anything maybe I'll call Pierce Manifolds or Kevin "Sarge" Lafferty and see what they have to say.

  17. #17



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    no the plastic floats are what you use for blow through setups in webers. If you really want to go blow through turbo, do it with the 38 or 40 dges, not the 32/36 - it gets tricky with the 2 stage and jetting
    Pennyman1
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  18. #18

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    Did you guys get Cordia/Tredia turbos? They came with a G62B ECI turbo engine which would also make a no brainer install on these trucks. The blocks on these particular engines are not monster HP beasts as they can be prone to block failures around the 300 hp mark (the wall of the block around the engine mounts can tear apart) A few guys here have messed with them and one well known engine builder squeezed 380ish HP out of one with forged internals but it ate itself during torture testing.

  19. #19

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    All the lore I've read says the USDM G63B blocks are identical to the 1G DSM, execept they don't have oil squirters. Which a machinist can add. Looking at a piston and rod set I have and based on absolutely nothing but vague memories of a comparable set from an old boosted Subaru 2.0 with a TD05-16G, they look beefy enough to take a little intercooled boost from a small turbo like this kit offers without having to lowering compression by a point. And if you're worried about knock add a thicker gasket and/or an alcohol/water mister.

    How cool it would be if we ever got the turbo Tredia or Cordia. After the gas crisis, I imagine emissions and CAFE standards were too much for them to be viable in the market in the U.S. Plus Americans never got why performance stuff on econoboxes when we had V8 pony car for roughly the same price. Hot hatches like the GTI and GLH were novelty niche cars in the 1980s.
    Last edited by noahwins; 11-15-2014 at 01:38 PM.

  20. #20

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    Whoa, you guys never got Cordia turbos???? The single point injection is nasty and dodgy but if you were ready to cut your teeth on turbos they were a great entry level car. It didn't take much to get them really boogying and they handled pretty well for a front driver. The irony of Australia getting Cordias was the ratio of performance 4 cylinder/small cars we were offered in the market compared to the foreign market. We missed out on a lot of awesome cars and when we got one that was being sold out of Australia, we always got the bottom end optioned cars (Cordia turbos came out with Dash Sirius 2 litre turbo SOHC engines and AWD - and we got the 1.8 FWD's... )

  21. #21

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    My Motor emissions guide says we only got a 1.6 and a 1.8 in turbo form starting in 1983. I thought they were in the Mirage. Cordia and Tredia are listed as NA 2.0. But this guide is notoriously wrong.

  22. #22

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    we had the 1.8 4g62 cordia turbo in the USA, I used the turbo manifold from the starion from austrailia on my truck it was easier to find


  23. #23

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    I'll shut up now.


  24. #24



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    Wow Rahtid, that air cleaner looks gigantic in them photos. lol

  25. #25

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    It is not sure why

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