89 2.0 D50 - Weber Conversion completed-Tuning Info?
Hey first post here so a little background...
I bought my 89 2.0 D50 for $200, the previous owner thought it had jumped time and it had an oil leak. He was going to scrap it so i picked it up. Turns out the "timing" ended up just being the coil wire was loose. Replaced the Front Crank Seal and Oil Pump seal and didnt have any more issues with that. Truck ran great for a few months then developed a bad stumble and finally would fall flat on its face under any acceleration. True to what I've read and I'm sure you guys all know too well the stock Mikuni is a PITA. I messed with it a while and finally ordered a Weber kit.
Kit came in yesterday and i installed it last night. I plan to convert it to an electric fuel pump but for the moment im running a regulator on the stock pump (how much do they push anyways? ive searched and couldnt find it). It fired right up, ran pretty well...no real issues. Definitely a much better throttle response and a stronger feel to the truck.
Id like to get a little feedback to make sure I've covered everything correctly.
1- Hooked the fuel supply with regulator inline set at 3.5 psi and Capped the return line (this im not so positive about-help me out guys)
2- The Coolant supply i capped off as well. From everything i could see with the old carb this was sufficient, or should it have been looped back into the system? Ive read some threads where this was done but not positive if its correct.
3- I removed pretty much every bit of Smog/EGR Vacuum Hose crap i could be positive of and capped the ports on the intake where they hooked up. Also deleted the pipe and air valve that allowed warm air from exhaust to the enter the intake and plugged the exhaust manifold with the supplied plug. I discovered under that pile of mess there is actually a motor in there!
4- in the kit there was a plastic T as well as a couple of white couplings supplied, these are currently not being used??? Im never a fan of extra parts being left over. Am i missing something?
5- Just how tight do you have to torque the bolts in the adapter plates...I got them what i called tight last night without fearing stripping them. After a short run while ago it looked as though there might have been some moisture (gas???) around the adapter plates/gaskets
The carb did have a few backfires through the intake??? This was right at start up before warming and taking off probably faster than i should have on a new setup, but i was pretty anxious to try it out. That went away after the temp got up into normal range.
Ive searched through Google for a total conversion thread with step-by-step, didnt turn up anything. I know this is a hot topic on the D-50/MightyMax forums so if i missed it I'm sorry, I know you guys get tired of answering the Noob ?'s sometimes.
Other than these few things im pretty pleased, other than making a few quick runs up and down the road no miles on it yet. Got everything up to operating temps and made a few hard pulls on it, as well as let it just sit and idle to see if temperature looked good. Everything seems to be right. I'm just so glad to get this truck back on the road again. Ive always had a small truck like this one, i love em. Takes me back 15 years to my first 88 Toyota.
Any info ya'll can give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance
Even with the regulator, the mechanical pump is likely dumping way too much fuel. That may explain the liquid fuel leak and backfiring. The Carter pump is popular with people who've done the upgrade. Check out the stickied Weber 32/36 threas and make sure you didn't get the fake Weber.
Backfiring out carb can be timing or a burnt intake valve. It tells you that the intake valves or valve are still open when combustion happens in the cylinder. The fuel exploding sneaks through the open intake valve and out the carb it comes. Can be nasty if your looking down the carb when it happens, lol.
Welcome to the forum Possum.
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