the third line off the pump does go to a fuel return line on your truck - Geronimo had a totally different system for that - he uses a 3 port can that split the vapor off and sends it to the tank instaed of the pump doing it.
the third line off the pump does go to a fuel return line on your truck - Geronimo had a totally different system for that - he uses a 3 port can that split the vapor off and sends it to the tank instaed of the pump doing it.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
If that is a Weber, they give you 2 fuel line places to attach the fuel line in, depending on the way your carb is installed and the fuel line points toward it.
My canister has also been change so that the vapor from the tank is pushed/sucked down the carb when the tank reaches high pressure build up. My return fuel line is no more (plugged). The vapor hose is connected to a plastic one way valve leading to the carb that opens when the pressure reaches it's limit in the tank.
That 3 port can that you're talking about pm is the same one I'm talking about. The 3 ports are labeled "to ac, to carb, to tank".
Okay I did some looking at some other Ram50's. I found one with the G54b motor and one with the G52b motor, both had the same 3 port canister that I'm talking about on my truck. On the 2.0 with an Air Conditioning pump installed, I followed the line going from the "to a/c" port and it following the firewall all the way to the driver's side of the truck. The carb was off this truck so I couldn't follow the "to carb" line, but the "to tank" obviously wrapped under the firewall as if returning to the fuel tank.
The 2.6 G54b did not have a factory A/C system and I followed the line going from the 3 port can labeled "to a/c" and it went to a small white regulator looking thing where it just plugged back into itself. This regulator looking thing was mounted on the firewall, nearly dead center. So I'm back to my original question of where do I run these 2 lines ("to a/c" and "to carb")? There's only 2 ports on my carb and they're not labeled. My carb is a weber but a much more basic model than the ones I've seen on some of your trucks. Remember that my 3 port canister currently has nothing coming out of the "to carb" port.
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Help me get this finished up!
I have the dizzy vacuum line and I need to know where it goes. I have 2 ports open that it'll (kinda) fit. One on the intake right below the carb (pictured) and one right below the e-choke (also pictured). Then I have my 2 ports on the firewall side of the carb. One of them had the regulator on it because the donor truck had an electric fuel pump. Therefor I'm assuming its my "in" port. I'm assuming the other full size port is the one I'll put the "to carb" line from the vapor canistor? What about the final small port that I'm not using?
Take the screw out of the one on the left at the base of the carb in picture #3 and connect your hose to that one. Cap off the one on the right. I made the mistake of using that one closest to the firewall and didn't realize it until I had my dizzy curved.
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Tighten that carb bolt too, looks like it is loose, lol.
Last edited by BradMph; 12-18-2014 at 08:58 PM.
lol thank you brad! I never would have guess that I'd have to uncap that!!
Yeah I was in the process of unbolting it.
Got a new gasket kit for that conversion plate and carb, was installing it.
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Okay I went and got myself confused again. Brad said to hook the "to carb" line from my vapor canister to the base of the carb on the valve cover side so pressure vapors from the tank go to the carb for burn off. But that port is already hooked up to my valve cover?
Any suggestions? I just got a electric fan I'm installing with a temp sensor, relay and dial for temp control. What temperature do you all recommend I set it to turn on at? 84 ram 50 2.6
Our winters can almost allow it to be turned off, we get snow
During the summer that thing is running almost full time and continues to run after I shut off motor for a few minutes.
I set mine according to the temp gauge and weather, I usually have it come on Just as the thermostat dumps water into engine so it can cool the incoming water that has just left the engine and is filling into the radiator.
I was thinking the same thing. Good advice, thank you.
Bought a few other goodies. Got ball joints, tie rod ends and a full truck bushing set. While I'm painting, going to be doing all those. Looking into new shocks now... looks like the ones on my truck might very well be original haha.
Have any threads to link me to suggestions for shocks brad? 2wd of course so don't need heavy duty.
Somehow in the time it took me to tear this apart and rebuilt it, my dizzy has managed to go out. I get power to the dizzy, but its not powering any of the spark plug cables. Maybe points? Maybe cap? Any similar problems happen to anyone else on here? Any pointers? Haven't been able to find a new dizzy for any less than $200 yet....
YA check my thread , The link is on the bottom of all my post as a signature. I wrote up a post on KYBs with the model numbers and all.
Sounds like you burned your module up. If power is coming into dizzy and not leaving to plugs, that is a module or your rotor is missing. The gap on the modules needs to also be in a tolerance gap. Feeler gauge will check the gap and I also have a Thread floating around about the gapping. Wrecking yards, don't need a new one, just walk a yard and pocket a few of them for safety reasons. There are several cars that use the same distributor too
If it's not broke, don't fix it.Unless your making speed changes or upgrades.
Ah I understand. Yeah I don't have a rotor. I've never worked on a dizzy that didn't have a rotor. I'll read through your thread and see what I can learn. I stopped by a yard on the way home and I found 2 very different systems in the dizzys I found. Maybe if I gap it and maybe replace the points I can get mine going.
Found a killer deal on a dizzy and I've got spark back. Looking into an electrical fuel pump now. My mechanical one isn't pulling anything and I know the electric ones are recommended for the weber carbs.
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