Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Two questions

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-23-2014
    Posts
    20
    Location

    Atl, GA
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64

    Two questions

    Hello, any help is appreciated. My '94 2.4l is a great little truck but recently it has been acting up.

    1. When turning the wheel (particularly to the right) at slower coasting speeds I'm hearing a high-pitched wailing/moaning sound. I replaced the power steering fluid about 6 months ago and it is still at a normal level (and clean). I'm only hearing the sound at slower speeds, and it sounds like it's coming from the front, but it's difficult to be certain. It also seems like it only does it after the truck is warmed up. What could this be if not the PS fluid? Should I drain the fluid just to be sure?

    2. I've replaced most of the front end suspension (and 4 tires) with hopes that it would tighten up my steering but alas the wheel is still wandering, especially at highway speeds. Turning the screw in the gearbox made the wheel tighter, but the truck was harder to control because it would wander and it took extra effort to straighten back out. So yada yada yada now I'm committed to replacing the gearbox. RockAuto seems to have the best prices but I'm wondering if anyone knows of better deals on mits parts?

  2. #2

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    06-15-2014
    Posts
    6,059
    Location

    Adelaide, South Australia
    Vehicle

    1985 Mitsubishi L200
    Engine

    G63B
    Hi instakill, I'm gonna take a stab at your haunted power steering set up. If it's 'moaning' at low speeds I think it's cavitating. This is where air is trapped in the system and it pulls it through the pump. If the power steering fluid looks whitish and cloudy with lots of small air bubbles in it, that will indicate there is an issue. Either that or the pump's internals are worn. Maybe try using an additive/power steering treatment and see how you go. Also ensure you are using the correct fluid (don't know how much impact it'll make but you never know...)

  3. #3

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-23-2014
    Posts
    20
    Location

    Atl, GA
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    Thanks geezer. I changed the fluid a few months ago when I did the belts and repaired the front end. It's still bright yellow and clean. The truck has had sloppy steering since I got it, but I've been reluctant to replace the gearbox since they are a pretty penny. Also, if there was air in the system or low fluid there would be a noise any time the power steering was engaged. As of now it only makes the noise when turning right at slower speeds, doesn't seem to do it while cold, idling or at highway speeds, and it sounds like chewbacca. Super weird.

    On a related note, I had the suspension and alignment checked again (I've had it checked 2-3 times since I did the front-end work myself) and the shop said it was dead-on. I asked them about the steering wander and they said it had to be slop in the gearbox since everything up to the gearbox is new. They couldn't identify the noise though.

  4. #4

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,258
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Any chance that noise is brake pads?
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  5. #5




    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-20-2011
    Posts
    4,851
    Location

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle

    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    did you replace the lca, idler arm, and strut rod bushings? those will cause wander if bad
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-23-2014
    Posts
    20
    Location

    Atl, GA
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    Yup anything that was rubber on the truck when I got it was shot. I replaced all the bushings. Pads and calipers are new too. Truck only had 90k when I got it in '12 so I decided it was worth it to fix it up. Replacing bushings really isn't that costly if you do it yourself.

    I took off the driver's side tire today to check out the gear box. I can wiggle the wheel 2" either way and the pitman arm doesn't move. I don't know what the tolerance is for these trucks but that seems excessive to me. My guess is that the wookie sound is coming from the box but I don't know what's causing it and I don't know how dangerous it is to keep driving it.

  7. #7



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-24-2012
    Posts
    2,363
    Location

    Washington State
    Vehicle

    1986 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G63B
    Don't forget Muffler Bearings!!!

    Any movement as play is concerned is not a good thing. The bushing maybe bad on Idler and without really giving it a stress test might not show. Any alignment shop will or should refuse to even try to align a vehicle with suspension play in any parts. I use a pair of channel locks on suspension parts by grabbing the joint and squeezing them together. This can help show play that usually our grabbing and shaking doesn't always show up.
    Steering gear might need a little adjustment, but you need to be careful making any changes with this. It's easy to get it wrong. Wandering many times can be a toe-out issue. If the tires are toe out too much it can definitely make the truck follow the grooves in the road or just wander like you mentioned. New tires should make the truck run true, but without an alignment it may just ruin the tires. I don't think alignment shop will charge too much to rack it and give you a diagnoses if you find yourself frustrated. Try not to spend a ton on chasing something if it doesn't need the fix.
    Good parts to search for are Moog parts. Usually more heavy duty and last longer.

    Animation1.gifAnimation2.gifAnimation3.gif
    Last edited by BradMph; 10-24-2014 at 04:23 PM.

  8. #8




    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-20-2011
    Posts
    4,851
    Location

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle

    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    if the pitman arm doesn't move but you have play, that is either the center link is shot and/or tie rods and idler
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  9. #9

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-26-2014
    Posts
    494
    Location

    Ca
    Vehicle

    1993 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4G64
    Quote Originally Posted by Instakill View Post
    Yup anything that was rubber on the truck when I got it was shot. I replaced all the bushings. Pads and calipers are new too. Truck only had 90k when I got it in '12 so I decided it was worth it to fix it up. Replacing bushings really isn't that costly if you do it yourself.

    I took off the driver's side tire today to check out the gear box. I can wiggle the wheel 2" either way and the pitman arm doesn't move. I don't know what the tolerance is for these trucks but that seems excessive to me. My guess is that the wookie sound is coming from the box but I don't know what's causing it and I don't know how dangerous it is to keep driving it.

    Instakill,
    Following this thread closely, as I have the same concern on My '92.
    As Yourself, I went completely through the front suspension after purchase.
    And as Yourself, I still had 'wander' ... so I pulled the L/F, SAME SAME 2-3 INCHES of S/wheel movement
    and no input to the pitman arm !!!!.

    Having said that I have scoured all the manual links here with no success on an blow up of the steering gear...

    (Gents !!! pdf needed !!!)

    The pitman shaft to rack piston adjustment top of the gear, (engine running 1/16 turn max) will only tighten up 'on center' feel.

    It will not however take up the slack between the worn recirculating ball bearings between the rack piston & worm shaft (steel and for whatever reason composite).

    As rack piston movement controls hyd supply and return Your gear is suspect, as is Mine.

    Seems like gloom and $$$$ doom !!!

    Not so however Honored Posters.

    Grab the input shaft (column to gear) up or down movement = high dollar gear replacement. I think not however.(its MM after all).
    Pry bar on the Pitman shaft --- side to side movement = high dollar gear replacement. I think not however.(its MM after all).

    I apologize Instakill for the no pic/no pdf paint modded post, and the long winded preface.

  10. #10




    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-20-2011
    Posts
    4,851
    Location

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle

    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    the power steering boxes are known for bearing wear on both input and output shaft. Fordubishi was crazy enough (his own words) to tear one down and rebuild one of these boxes. Rebuilt ones are expensive because of the work involved to fix them. I just picked up the power steering setup from an 86 for my project truck - guess I could be in for a lot of fun.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  11. #11

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-26-2014
    Posts
    494
    Location

    Ca
    Vehicle

    1993 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4G64
    Instakill, apologies, found the link.

    http://www.mightyram50.net/d-50/Fact..._AND_POWER.pdf

    I stand corrected on 2 points...

    1) no composite material used in the recirculating balls.
    2) 1'st Gen and 2'nd Gen are not the same.

    --- SIDE NOTE---,

    The Mitsu P/S gear seems to have some ... mmmm... remarkable similarities between the The p/s gear on My '67 Barracuda...
    Last edited by SubGothius; 01-24-2023 at 01:11 PM. Reason: Fixed broken link

  12. #12

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-23-2014
    Posts
    20
    Location

    Atl, GA
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    Thanks for all the replies.

    On a side note, does anyone have a wiring diagram for the horn on a '94? I took mine apart and now I can't figure out how the button works. Every time I wire it up the horn just honks continuously!

  13. #13

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-23-2014
    Posts
    20
    Location

    Atl, GA
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    One 12v wire comes up the steering column and grounds to the plastic backing. A 2nd wire hangs from the foam backed 'button' and it has a clip on the end. When I touch the wires the horn blows but but I can't figure out where the 2nd wire clips to without the horn staying on.

    Anybody know how this works? Or have a pic?

  14. #14

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-10-2011
    Posts
    256
    Location

    WA
    Vehicle

    1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    6G72
    I had the same problem with my horn sticking on and ended up replacing the foam, which acts as an insulator. My foam had started to disintegrate in several spots, allowing contact. Make sure the copper plate is flat as I t is easily bent and can make inadvertent contact. I just used the old piece as a template and cut out a new one out of packing foam, has been working fine for over five years now.
    1990 MM 4x4 3.0
    1991 MM 4x4 3.0 Diamonte
    1994 MM 2wd (work in progress)

  15. #15

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    08-23-2014
    Posts
    20
    Location

    Atl, GA
    Vehicle

    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    4G64
    Thanks lush90 very helpful.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •