Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: this seems bad - sheared bolts on shock absorber

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-29-2014
    Posts
    54
    Location

    Apex, NC
    Vehicle

    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B

    this seems bad - sheared bolts on shock absorber

    I discovered this on my newly purchased MM. I noticed that the shock was not even connected to the lower control arm. I have new shocks on order, but what the heck do I do with this situation? I can feel the nut for the bolt inside of the lower control arm, but the way the thing is designed, you cant get at it from underneath. I want to replace all of the hardware involved, but dont know what to buy.

    Take a look and chime in

  2. #2

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-09-2014
    Posts
    550
    Location

    sheffield, vt
    Vehicle

    1978 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G63B
    I have on occasion had luck with tack welding (a piece of large bolt/old tool) onto the broken bolt let it cool then heat up the metal surrounding the broken bolt & maybe get it out. good luck

  3. #3

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-06-2011
    Posts
    482
    Location

    Jacksonville, FL
    Vehicle

    1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B-T
    reciprocating saw ( sawzall)

  4. #4


    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-04-2011
    Posts
    712
    Location

    Columbus, OH
    Vehicle

    1992 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    Other
    That will be a knuckle buster for sure...Yep, sawzall or cutting torch.

  5. #5

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-29-2014
    Posts
    54
    Location

    Apex, NC
    Vehicle

    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B
    What am I cutting exactly? I dont have a torch or welder.

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-29-2014
    Posts
    54
    Location

    Apex, NC
    Vehicle

    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B
    Also, what is the part in the foreground? Its a bar that runs of across the front of the truck. There is a bushing right there in the photo. Is it supposed to be lose enough that you can just grab it and wiggle it around?

    Another image

  7. #7

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,258
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    This is a 4 x 4, (is that right?) which is out of my league, as regards the steering rod/connector.

    I wonder if it's safe to drill new holes slightly past the originals and then nut-and-bolt the new shocks down? I couldn't say how much that would weaken the arm, so perhaps other members here could chip in on commenting. But if I was unable to extract the broken/bent bolts, that's almost surely what I'd do.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  8. #8

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-09-2014
    Posts
    550
    Location

    sheffield, vt
    Vehicle

    1978 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G63B
    yes its "ok" if the front sway bar links are slightly loose. being a 4wd it is not going to allow any play room to redrill another hole close enough to allow the shock to mount (great idea but the shock has no "play" room). the "cutting" would be the "not broken" bolt that is stripped but maybe it can be backed out since it is still in 1 piece? blowing a hole thru the broken bolt with a cutting torch & adding a nut to the underside would be the easiest/quickest...it still can be driven to a shop...ask em how much?...maybe replace both front ones & be done with it?

  9. #9

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,258
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Thanks for clarifying, RRTT: it's great we have a community of resourceful experience to share. God-knows you can certainly get lost in repairing these trucks!
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  10. #10

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-29-2014
    Posts
    54
    Location

    Apex, NC
    Vehicle

    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B
    This is 4x4 yes. What is that bolt going into? Is the hole in the lower control arm threaded, or is there a nut underneath? What sucks is you would think you could look under the control arm and see the under side, but its all sealed. I dont know how I would hold the nut to tighten the bolt with the shock filling in that space in the middle.

    If I go to the hardware store looking for new nuts/bolts is there a particular material I should purchase?

  11. #11

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-09-2014
    Posts
    550
    Location

    sheffield, vt
    Vehicle

    1978 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G63B
    a nut welded underneath (should be able to touch it to verify...i'm a 1st gen guy) & yes zero room to work (sounds like the current plan is drilling an access hole underneath). "typically" what happens is the shock comes loose & then smacks around wearing out the threaded bolt till the bolt(s) break. definitely use a high grade when replacing, lock washer & thread sealer.

  12. #12

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    04-06-2011
    Posts
    482
    Location

    Jacksonville, FL
    Vehicle

    1990 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B-T
    Sorry bud. I was thinking it was 2 wheel drive.

    Its gonna be tough to get that bolt out and it looks like the other shock bolt is broke off as well. You might think about removing the whole control arm to be able to work on it easier. If you go through all that might think about a junkyard piece to replace yours. For now Id take the shock out completely since its not doing anything except possibly banging into stuff.

  13. #13

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-29-2014
    Posts
    54
    Location

    Apex, NC
    Vehicle

    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by crvtec90 View Post
    Sorry bud. I was thinking it was 2 wheel drive.

    Its gonna be tough to get that bolt out and it looks like the other shock bolt is broke off as well. You might think about removing the whole control arm to be able to work on it easier. If you go through all that might think about a junkyard piece to replace yours. For now Id take the shock out completely since its not doing anything except possibly banging into stuff.
    Yeah it is parked for now. Thanks

  14. #14




    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-20-2011
    Posts
    4,851
    Location

    Pittsburgh, PA
    Vehicle

    1980 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    G54B
    the cover on the lca is tack welded to the arm - grind off the welds, remove the plate, and then you can get to the threaded inserts on the arm. Then weld the plate back on when done.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  15. #15

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-29-2014
    Posts
    54
    Location

    Apex, NC
    Vehicle

    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B
    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    the cover on the lca is tack welded to the arm - grind off the welds, remove the plate, and then you can get to the threaded inserts on the arm. Then weld the plate back on when done.
    All I need is a welder and then to know how to weld

  16. #16

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    11-22-2012
    Posts
    132
    Location

    Grants,NM
    Vehicle

    1985 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V8
    actually a pretty easy fix with the right tools.
    do you have a muffler shop close? ask the guys at your
    local parts place for a place that could do it for you.

  17. #17



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    07-24-2012
    Posts
    2,363
    Location

    Washington State
    Vehicle

    1986 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G63B
    Your not the only one without a welder and lacking skills...in addition to cutting 4th period Metal shop class.

    Just don't go using Gorilla glue or something. Use the imagination, you be surprised what you can do.

  18. #18

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    09-29-2014
    Posts
    54
    Location

    Apex, NC
    Vehicle

    1987 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    G54B
    No pictures yet, but I did end up drilling out the bolts. I found some new flanged bolts, and new flanged locking nuts. I ended up installing them so the bolt comes up out of the control arm, and the nut is threaded down onto it. I found it easier to tighten this way with the shock installed as I could grab the end of the bolt threads with some pliers while using a wrench to tighten the nuts. I also used blue thread lock on the threads.

    It all seems solid. I will have to check them after a bit of driving to make sure its all held up well.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •