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Thread: this seems bad - sheared bolts on shock absorber

  1. #1

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    this seems bad - sheared bolts on shock absorber

    I discovered this on my newly purchased MM. I noticed that the shock was not even connected to the lower control arm. I have new shocks on order, but what the heck do I do with this situation? I can feel the nut for the bolt inside of the lower control arm, but the way the thing is designed, you cant get at it from underneath. I want to replace all of the hardware involved, but dont know what to buy.

    Take a look and chime in

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    I have on occasion had luck with tack welding (a piece of large bolt/old tool) onto the broken bolt let it cool then heat up the metal surrounding the broken bolt & maybe get it out. good luck

  3. #3

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    reciprocating saw ( sawzall)

  4. #4


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    That will be a knuckle buster for sure...Yep, sawzall or cutting torch.

  5. #5

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    What am I cutting exactly? I dont have a torch or welder.

  6. #6

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    Also, what is the part in the foreground? Its a bar that runs of across the front of the truck. There is a bushing right there in the photo. Is it supposed to be lose enough that you can just grab it and wiggle it around?

    Another image

  7. #7

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    This is a 4 x 4, (is that right?) which is out of my league, as regards the steering rod/connector.

    I wonder if it's safe to drill new holes slightly past the originals and then nut-and-bolt the new shocks down? I couldn't say how much that would weaken the arm, so perhaps other members here could chip in on commenting. But if I was unable to extract the broken/bent bolts, that's almost surely what I'd do.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  8. #8

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    yes its "ok" if the front sway bar links are slightly loose. being a 4wd it is not going to allow any play room to redrill another hole close enough to allow the shock to mount (great idea but the shock has no "play" room). the "cutting" would be the "not broken" bolt that is stripped but maybe it can be backed out since it is still in 1 piece? blowing a hole thru the broken bolt with a cutting torch & adding a nut to the underside would be the easiest/quickest...it still can be driven to a shop...ask em how much?...maybe replace both front ones & be done with it?

  9. #9

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    Thanks for clarifying, RRTT: it's great we have a community of resourceful experience to share. God-knows you can certainly get lost in repairing these trucks!
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  10. #10

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    This is 4x4 yes. What is that bolt going into? Is the hole in the lower control arm threaded, or is there a nut underneath? What sucks is you would think you could look under the control arm and see the under side, but its all sealed. I dont know how I would hold the nut to tighten the bolt with the shock filling in that space in the middle.

    If I go to the hardware store looking for new nuts/bolts is there a particular material I should purchase?

  11. #11

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    a nut welded underneath (should be able to touch it to verify...i'm a 1st gen guy) & yes zero room to work (sounds like the current plan is drilling an access hole underneath). "typically" what happens is the shock comes loose & then smacks around wearing out the threaded bolt till the bolt(s) break. definitely use a high grade when replacing, lock washer & thread sealer.

  12. #12

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    Sorry bud. I was thinking it was 2 wheel drive.

    Its gonna be tough to get that bolt out and it looks like the other shock bolt is broke off as well. You might think about removing the whole control arm to be able to work on it easier. If you go through all that might think about a junkyard piece to replace yours. For now Id take the shock out completely since its not doing anything except possibly banging into stuff.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by crvtec90 View Post
    Sorry bud. I was thinking it was 2 wheel drive.

    Its gonna be tough to get that bolt out and it looks like the other shock bolt is broke off as well. You might think about removing the whole control arm to be able to work on it easier. If you go through all that might think about a junkyard piece to replace yours. For now Id take the shock out completely since its not doing anything except possibly banging into stuff.
    Yeah it is parked for now. Thanks

  14. #14



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    the cover on the lca is tack welded to the arm - grind off the welds, remove the plate, and then you can get to the threaded inserts on the arm. Then weld the plate back on when done.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by pennyman1 View Post
    the cover on the lca is tack welded to the arm - grind off the welds, remove the plate, and then you can get to the threaded inserts on the arm. Then weld the plate back on when done.
    All I need is a welder and then to know how to weld

  16. #16

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    actually a pretty easy fix with the right tools.
    do you have a muffler shop close? ask the guys at your
    local parts place for a place that could do it for you.

  17. #17



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    Your not the only one without a welder and lacking skills...in addition to cutting 4th period Metal shop class.

    Just don't go using Gorilla glue or something. Use the imagination, you be surprised what you can do.

  18. #18

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    No pictures yet, but I did end up drilling out the bolts. I found some new flanged bolts, and new flanged locking nuts. I ended up installing them so the bolt comes up out of the control arm, and the nut is threaded down onto it. I found it easier to tighten this way with the shock installed as I could grab the end of the bolt threads with some pliers while using a wrench to tighten the nuts. I also used blue thread lock on the threads.

    It all seems solid. I will have to check them after a bit of driving to make sure its all held up well.

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