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Thread: Longer tie rods?

  1. #1

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    Longer tie rods?

    After installing my drop spindles my alignment is way out. Both wheels are facing in. Does anyone make longer tie rods so I can fix this?

  2. #2

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    Did you take it to get a alignment? You shouldn't need different tie rods for drop spindles. The only issue I had was seized up tie rod adjuster nut. All the heat in the world wouldn't help, it just ripped the treads out.

  3. #3

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    It's sitting at the second alignment shop now. First guy said the same thing. They are fully out and the wheels are still pointing in. I'm not sure how much longer they need to be. I'll find out when I'm out of work

  4. #4



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    Maybe a 4WD adjuster part is longer. I'll check my ASA parts program and look around.
    I'm also surprised they are not long enough after replacing drop spindles. That must of been a screwy drive to the alignment shop I imagine with that alignment.

  5. #5

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    Yep, driving it is crazy. Every bump it wants to pull in some direction. It's not out so far that it looks insane, but you can see it. Thanks for looking into the 4x4 ones for me.

  6. #6


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    If the front is facing in then they need to be screwed IN more not out. /----\ toe in = screw them in, \----/ toe out = Screw them out.

  7. #7

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    So I'm now more confused, sounds like it either needs to be shorter or the sleeve needs to be shorter. Does any of that make sense?

  8. #8



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    If the rods are on the front of the spindle they need to be longer if it's got a positive toe problem.
    If the rods are on the back side of the spindle then they would need to be shorter to correct a positive toe.
    Positive toe = closer in the front VS the rear.
    Negative toe = wider in the front VS the rear.
    You only want 1/8" positive toe.
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  9. #9

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    It sounds like the first shop had the new guy doing the alignment. Hopefully you have better luck at the second shop. Like I said there should be no issues with the size.

  10. #10

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    Ive got drop spindles on my truck. Didn't have to change the tie rods.

    You can set the total toe ( distance between the two front tires ) with a tape measure

    With the truck on the ground and steering wheel centered ....put the metal tab of your tape measure in the tire tread and measure the distance to the same tread on the other side..... Measure the distance at the front and rear of the front tires. They should be within an 1/8 inch of each other.

    This isn't a total alignment but it will make it so you can drive the truck to an alignment place easier without the front tires dragging

  11. #11


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    Same here, 2 inch Drop spindles installed, no issues with the tie rods.

    Post drop look.


  12. #12

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    If I have time I'm going to play around on Sunday, I think the alignment guy didn't know what he was talking about. At least I hope so. He didn't seem to want to try and fix it, just tell me why he would put a bigger engine in it? I told him he could when it goes, I also only have 42000 miles on it so I'm hoping that is a long time away

  13. #13


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    I Started racing in Production Class with a 173,000 mile engine, was going 120MPH...4G64 is tough...and as far as you mechanic putting in a bigger engine... he doesn't know Mitsubishi (obviously) you just need BOOST!



    done thread jacking

  14. #14

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    I Can't break these bitches loose! I'm sure nobody tried to fix my alignment, the jam nuts are rusted to the sleeve. Any tips to do this? I got the inner jam nut loose on passenger side, that is it. Both sides are sprayed with wd40, hoping that helps a little.

  15. #15

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    After some fighting, bloody knuckles and a lot of wd40, driver side is damn close. Now the passenger is putting up a much stronger fight. I can't break loose the lower jam nut. Merril got me thru most of this so big thanks to him! Anyone got any suggestions? And what size is the actual nut? My metric set goes to 22mil, it's bigger than that so I was using an adjustable, which I don't really like.

  16. #16

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    I can't remember the exact size of the nut. I want to say maybe 24mm but a adjustable isn't gonna help much, it'll probably just spin. Try heating up the nuts and adjuster. If that doesn't work then your just gonna have to buy it all new. That's what happened to me.

  17. #17

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    I tried using a torch, that got the driver side loose. I may have to buy all new but I'm gonna give it a shot again tomorrow. Do you know if any of the passenger side is reverse threaded? Merrill thought it may be, not sure how to check. I may have super tightened it if it is.

  18. #18



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    can you pop both the inner and outer ends off ?
    and then work on it in a vice?
    one side of the adjuster is revise threads.
    and break fluid will eat rust too
    good luck!

  19. #19

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    I have yet to run into a single left hand thread on a Mitsu - I think they have some degree of mercy upon their owners. Methinks you've tightened it up to 11

  20. #20

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    Ive got a pipe wrench that I like to use for stubborn tie rod ends. Usually use a 2-3 foot piece of fence pipe on the end for leverage. PB blaster and a propane torch help too.

  21. #21

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    I tried to use an extension on the wrench, it's not budging. Went out today and got a set of wrenches 22mm - 30mm and a 3 pack of pickle forks. I think the passenger side is to stuck and going to need replacing. Should I do both sides if I'm already doing one? Or is that a waist of time

  22. #22



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    if they are that bad, just replace it all - it will be much easier. On the 88 sportcab I had I was at NTB for an alignment and was standing there when the idiot doing the alignment tried to loosen the right tie rod by hanging on it with a pipewrench and snapped it off in front of me. I went to the manager, who tried to tell me the tie rod broke when adjusted - when I told him how he broke it and i was there when he broke it, and I told him not to do it that way - they paid for all the parts to fix it. Never went there for an alignment again.
    Pennyman1
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  23. #23

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    Got the passenger side to break loose after taking the whole tie rid off. The vise and breaker bar were the ticket. Btw, the nut on passenger side tie rod end is threaded backwards. It was tightened to 11 by yours truly. I have a few things to tighten up then it's going back to the alignment shop. I will bitch at them once it's out of there

  24. #24

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    I haven't had the time to take it to the shop, and now that I know it can be aligned without custom tie rods, I'm going to buy all new tie rods and ends. They were looking bad and I should have just started with new instead of messing around with the old ones. Looked on rock auto, there are a few choices, anyone have a particular brand worth buying?

  25. #25

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    I always stick with moog. They're more expensive but worth it.

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