If you don't have the time and money to remove the head, it's not difficult to replace the valve seals with the engine intact. The procedure involves using some rope that will fit through the spark plug hole: then you hand-crank the engine until the cylinder with rope is near TDC. The rope keeps the valve from falling into the cylinder when you remove the valve spring, and you can safely remover the seals. You do this for each cylinder. I've done it, and it isn't tedious. You'll need a $20 valve compressor and $20 in valve seals. Good idea to replace the valve cover gasket, too.
My experience, after replacing the seals, is that the engine DID smoke a bit on start-up a few times afterwards, but soon there is no smoke at all. Many members will testify to the benefits of replacing the valve seals.
If you conduct this procedure, be absolutely sure to plug the oil holes on the cylinder head before you start removing the rocker assembly, to keep parts, bolts or lifters from dropping into the engine. Use "rocker condoms" to keep the lifters in the rocker arms.
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