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Thread: G54b Help

  1. #26

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    If the engine is running out of steam by the time it gets into mid range rpm, I'd first check the secondary vacuum actuator. The diaphragms in them are prone to splitting whether they are driven every day or left sitting for 5 years. Easy to test if it's working (with the engine off) - simply disconnect the small elbow hose running into the top of the vac actuator, fit a long hose onto it, open the carb to wide open throttle and suck on the other end of the hose (at this point the secondary should open right up). If it won't hold vacuum, it's toast.

  2. #27

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    Be absolutely sure to check the fuel filter, if you haven't already. Take it off and back-flush it, see what kind of particulate might be in there. If it's full of rust, definitely replace it. If it looks old, it likely is.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  3. #28

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    Wheres the fuel filter located? I think it might be something with an air hose but a clean fuel filter can always help.
    I drove it to schopl today and with the black hose disconnected for the fuel filter it doesn't do it at much.
    It stops accelarating and with a little gas it continues. I also noticed a really loud valve tick. And when I opened it in the weekend I saw that it didn't have jet valves but it doesn't have screws to adjust the valves. Maybe thats also part of the problem.

  4. #29

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    The fuel filter should be under the driver's door, on the frame. It will be on the driveshaft side, not the outside, so you have to look underneith.
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  5. #30



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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    If the engine is running out of steam by the time it gets into mid range rpm, I'd first check the secondary vacuum actuator. The diaphragms in them are prone to splitting whether they are driven every day or left sitting for 5 years. Easy to test if it's working (with the engine off) - simply disconnect the small elbow hose running into the top of the vac actuator, fit a long hose onto it, open the carb to wide open throttle and suck on the other end of the hose (at this point the secondary should open right up). If it won't hold vacuum, it's toast.
    Example, lol

    Untitled-1.jpg


    Isn't fuel filter located close to gas cap area under the bed of the truck on the frame?
    Last edited by BradMph; 09-10-2014 at 01:47 PM.

  6. #31

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    I bet if Kronuster traces the line from the fuel tank to the engine, he'd likely FIND the fuel filter, Brad. I'm not sure where it is on the G54B, but on my 89 2.0 it's between the fuel tank and driver side door, tucked up on the frame.

    I think.

    It is on my 90 4G64.

    Oh i hate confusion. It's so disorienting.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  7. #32



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    Yep that's the spot!

  8. #33

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    Turns put that valve tick wasn't a valve tick, i'm officially SOL with this thing. Mechanic told me it had a spun bearing and i would need a new motor. After all the time spent trying to find a head, which i payed 200 for, and the wrecking yard only offered me 300. I guess ill just cut my losses and junk it.

  9. #34

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    You might want to do a bit more research first...maybe get a second opinion.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  10. #35

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    From what i've read the mechanic is probably right. It makes a weird noise in the number 2 cylinder, but it goes away when i remove the spark plug. I thought it was detonating so i checked the timing and it was wrong the dot on the camshaft was on the left side of head instead of the right, it was 180 degrees off. Turned the truck on and the noise was low but still audible as soon as i gave it gas it came back. I'm going to take off the oil pan in the weekend and check the bearing. I'm also looking for a cheap block too. But im running out of options i need a car to find work and this is the only vehicle i own.

  11. #36



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    Wrist pin? When plug is pulled there is no more pressure to make the piston rattle as it bumps over TDC

  12. #37

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    wrong mechanic, rebuild it yourself 90% of the time you can just replace the bearings, all of them. the weak spot on these engines is the chain driving the oil pump. also be sure to prime the oil filter when changing the oil. do it yourself, they won't,

  13. #38

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    I took it to another mechanic and he wants to make sure the head is not cracked so he asked me to take the head off so he could take a look at it. He's older so he doesn't do does types of jobs anymore but he said he would help me if i did all the heavy lifting work. He did a compression test and the numbers were 160, 150, 160, 160 for cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4 in their respective order. That number 2 cylinder has the lowest compression and is the one that is making the weird noise.

    With the head and oil pan off how can i check if it's the wrist pin or the bearing? And can i really just change all the bearings? This is the last effort into getting this thing running if it doesn't get fixed ill try to sell it for parts or just junk it and move on. Thanks for all the help.

  14. #39

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    with the head and pan off, pull the #2 piston and rod.
    they're a lot easier to inspect out of the engine.
    you should be able to find the problem.

  15. #40



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    That compression looks good too. Not bad at all and in the range of still being decent. But there are also oil rings too, not sure if your burning oil, but that would be another subject not mentioned. The flat tappet heads are noisy things naturally. I'd follow 4 cylinders advise and check it out to be sure. His suggestion wouldn't take long at all.

  16. #41

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    well this engine is dead to me i've officially maxed out my capabilities as a diy'er. i haven't checked the rest of the bearings but i imagine that they have some
    DSC00564.jpg

  17. #42

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    Don't throw in the towel just yet. Dropping in some new bearings is still within the abilities of mere mortals - yes you'll need to check the crank but it'll be worth it when it's all back together and running. This is what I found inside my G63B along with a twisted crank...

  18. #43

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    The crank has one deep scratch on the piston i checked. I i change bearings wouldn't they just go out again?
    Mr. Geezer how did you fix your g63? New cam and new bearings?
    I'll check the rest of the pistons on thursday to see how the rest of the crank looks like.

  19. #44

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    It will depend on who handles your crank. Most of the time it's easier to source another crank and in all honesty I should've held out to do the same, but the shop I took my engine into were competent enough to repair the crank. The bearings don't fail due to the surrounding block but have failed from a combination of wear and/or an oiling failure under normal circumstances. I am in agreeance with BradMph - your compression is more than acceptable and mechanical flat tappet heads on G63B engines (as with any adjustable flat tappet type OHC head) are noisy if not adjusted up. p.s. I haven't assembled my engine yet as I'm holding out on locating decent rockers and rails for my head

  20. #45

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    It will depend on who handles your crank.
    Were you expecting me to NOT comment about such a remark? The potential is unlimited, first-wife jokes notwithstanding.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  21. #46

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    ...Thanks for that Mr Lugwrench. Ermagherd

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