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Thread: weber install on 2.0 G63B what can stay and what can go?

  1. #1

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    1989 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    weber install on 2.0 G63B what can stay and what can go?

    the mighty max that i bought already had a 32/36 on it but fitted very poorly. i'm replacing it with a weber 38 outlaw and would like to tidy up the intake manifold a bit by getting rid of all of these extra vacuum ports and sensors that are no longer used. i have i down to the ones i need like the coolant fitting to go to the heater core and the fitting to the brake booster. but which one if any of the temp sensors do i keep? or is it the one top sensor up in the thermostat housing that stays?

  2. #2

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    You can remove the coolant barb on the #3 and #4 inlet runners and change it to a single outlet for the heater (this will tidy it up a little). The temp sender on the thermostat base needs to stay or you won't have a trigger for your gauge. The thermal vac switch can stay where it is as it will grief you more than it's worth to take it out. The small sender on the thermostat outlet...? I'm not even sure where it fits into the whole equation but I've had to use a different housing to clear the distributor I've chosen to use.

  3. #3

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    The threads for the thermo stuff is BSPT, not NPT, if you want to plug them.

    Got a pic of how you set up the coolant bypass and the hoses on #3 and #4, Geezer?

  4. #4

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    thanks for the info! the plan is to keep only what is needed. i don't have to pass emissions, so all the vacuum ports and EGR ports will be blocked. as well as no 02 sensors or whatever this used to run. it will literally be a carb, fuel, spark, ignition, exhaust type thing. just as if i was running a 60's muscle car

  5. #5

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    If/when I go through with the weber install I'll remove the coolant barb and swap it for something like an off the shelf barb for a Ford manifold (it looks like it's the same diameter and thread cut) as it won't need the small side coolant barb that connects to the auto choke on the Mikuni. If you are brave enough you can attempt what I have done and completely cut the exhaust gallery off the manifold to delete the EGR junk - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...take-manifold? You'll need to block the EGR gallery in the head with either a threaded grub screw or a block off plate welded to the manifold (and the remains of the EGR mount as it looks like it would be too complicated to seal it up by welding). I have heard of the ghetto rig approach of packing the gallery with muffler putty but that sounds like a really stupid idea to me... I also got beef with the way some throttle linkages have been set up to operate the weber on a mitsubishi engine and I'm working on a uber budget fix that looks neat, is really simple and works in a similar manner to the stock linkage (when I de-bug it I'll share

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