New starter installed, just spins...
New starter installed, just spins...
My truck's an auto, is it possible this is the manual starter? Is there a difference on the two other than power output?
yes - the automatic starter is a gear reduction with a different snout to mate with the flexplate ring gear - take it back and get the right one.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
this link shows both (not a great pic) http://www.group1autoparts.com/auto-.../t0310304-assy the "direct drive type" is installed on the 2.0L with manual transmission.
Last edited by ragragtimetime; 08-02-2014 at 04:44 PM.
Ugh. Rockauto told me this one was for the automatic...
Returning the first starter, getting the one that looks like mine.
New starter arrived, looks exactly like the one that was on the truck... however this starter has an extra wire coming off the solenoid... no idea what it is.
can you post pics please?
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
"extra wire coming off the solenoid" you say..not the "field coil wire" off the "yoke assembly" (portion of the starter motor)?...which would connect to terminal "m" (the large connector, NOT the battery connection).
I found this on another thread and was wondering is this what you're talking about? - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ch-or-Solenoid
The white wire. IMAG0743.jpg I know the positive from the batter connects to the post right above it, and the plastic wiring connector up at the brass spade at the top of the pic (partly cut off in the pic)...
Where does the white wire go??? My old one didn't have that.
Ah so looks like that's the R-terminal and I can just ignore it...
just be sure to tape it up so it doesn't short out or remove it.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
This is looking like a bad flexplate...
New starter installed, new grounds everywhere, new hot battery cable... battery charged up. Starter grinds... if I move the crankshaft manually, starter still grinds, but sounds different, this repeats as I move the crank and try to start again.
sure sounds like it.....sh*t a b*tch! probably have to tear it apart to verify warp or (hate to use the word) cracked flexplate.
If you turn the crank about 15 or 20 degree it should grab. There is normally a place it will take a bite and crank. Engines have a tendency to stop in one place between compression strokes.
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I've turned it a bunch of different ways. I either get a light grinding noise, or a heavy grinding noise...
Ugh. I've already sunk a bunch into this truck... and now this. Anyone have a source for a flexplate? 1980 Arrow, 2.0, automatic.
Just to be thorough... had my brother come over and give me a hand taking a look at everything. Had him crank it while I checked the voltages, all the power looks good, grounds are good, no weird voltage drops anywhere.
Had him under the truck while I turned the crank by hand, he verified that there is at least 5mm of play in the flexplate as I moved it.
Give these guys a call and see if they can find one. http://www.capitol-clutch.com/
I know a starter does not engage that far only like the first 1/4 of the tooth. If they don't have one the dealer???? IDK.
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Any idea how many teeth this flexplate should have? (1980 plymouth, 2.0, automatic)
I have no idea. But there can only be one to fit it from what I can tell.
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Looks like 110 teeth, 6 bolts to the crank, 3 bolts to the torque converter. Still need a diameter on the wheel, but waiting for the temps to drop a little bit more before crawling underneath her again.
I don't know if this helps but is it possible an engine or tranny mount broke? That might tweak things so that they don't mesh up and run.
Before you go taping up starter wires, read this.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...us&redirect=no
I had years of starting problems on my truck. I went through starters like crazy, I had issues with them spinning but not engaging. I had to crank the engine over and over and if it didn't start on the 1st or 2nd try, the engine got flooded and overheated the starter. SO I was pussy footing the truck starting everytime I turned the key or it wouldn't start. The friggin grinding was nuts also, gawd I thought I was grinding the flywheel at times.
First thing in the morning the truck started right up most the time. But if I had to stop and restart the truck, I had to catch the moment just right for it to start and not flood. LOW VOLTAGE STARTING PROBLEM.
It was the most frustrating problem to have and it seemed that it would never get fixed. I took the truck to shops and they couldn't locate the problem as well.
Then during my engine rebuilding I began unwrapping all the old crap wiring I did years ago to clean up the mess and install relays on everything that I added on to the truck. Air horns, stereo amp, driving lights, electric fan, and so on. I installed a 100amp alternator and all to try and fix this starting problem. As I unwrapped the thick harness wire set going to the starter I located a unconnected wire. This was the holy grail to my starting problem. The third wire assured my truck 12 volts at the moment of turning the ignition switch. Anyway it's a long story, but I connect the wire up as I explained in the link above and turn the key to an immediate startup. It was fixed, finally after all this time. It all was because I taped up that extra wire that a Auto parts person said to do when I bought the starter. Big Mistake. He said I didn't need the wire, but when my truck got into extreme weather and worn down a bit, 9 volts was not good enough to start her up. The problem begins.
As I read your posting I can't help but think what I went through and it sure the hell sounds just like your problems.
Read that link here...it explains what to do if you have an automatic or a manual transmission and that pesky extra wire. "The Inhibitor Wire".
So, if I understand correctly... if I have the starter with the extra wire, make sure it is hooked up to the OEM R wire. If my starter does NOT have the extra wire, run that diode from the solenoid post (that has the fat wire into the starter) to the OEM R wire.
Sound about right?
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