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Thread: New to mightyram50, not to Mitsubishi...

  1. #51

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    At this point I've only installed the headlight harness (the rest of the relays are only dummied in there) I've split the harness for the A/C from the truck, chucked the old relays that were fitted to it and wired up the new relays that came with the relay block and mimicked the wiring pattern for the A/C fan and compressor layout. I didn't like the way the top cover was designed to sit on the block so I trimmed one locator tab and rotated the top cover so the bevelled edge faced into the engine bay instead. There is still a ton of wiring to do - I'm replacing all of the harness sockets (they've turned to chalk and the terminals are all corroded), taping it all back up and rerouting some of the wiring in the process.
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  2. #52

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Oh, and here is the front air dam if anyone didn't see it from another post -

    Attachment 18991

    I got it fitting reasonably well now after the trimming and bolting the ends up under the bumper. It is a little distorted in the first vent hole but I'm not sure if it's due to the air dam being a touch wider than the bumper or from the way it was mounted in the first place. I took a heat gun to it to 'sweat' the urethane back into looking fresher and shape it to fit a little better. The side wings still stick out all the way to the wheel arch lips but I can live with that.
    Can't wait to see this bolted on that front end. It looks awesome!

  3. #53

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    I might dummy it in later with the grille and take pic of it when I'm not going at the speed of life lol. As mentioned, the wiring is a mess and I need to finish assembling the front end suspension with the Gen 2 hubs but time is one resource I don't get a lot of. Just keep chipping away at it whenever I can.
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  4. #54

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    Hmm, thought about the bike carb thing and came to the conclusion I'm making it too hard for myself. If I get the chance I'm going to split the intake from a 4G64 and use the lower half for the quad carbs. It'll still take a lot of sculpting and a trip (or 2) to a welding shop but at least I won't be starting from scratch and it solves a few issues like the coolant flow at the back of the intake manifold. Bike carbs are still expensive but I am looking at CBR900RR carbs as a first pick - big throats and roughly the right configuration to match the intake design.

    A decent carb kit for my nutty 34DATA carb is going to set me back $100AUD once I've swallowed the bitter pill of freight but who knows - it might be enough for me once it's tweaked properly. I have it operating mechanically on the bench now I've completed the choke swap and got the throttle linkage mods nailed down. I've been stupid busy and the weather is cooling down. Really need to tie up the wiring and get the front end back on terra firma.
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  5. #55

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    Well, I was able to order the 34 DATA rebuild kit from a supplier in the eastern states. It did set me back the better part of $80 AUD delivered but it is a comprehensive kit with all of the diaphragms and gaskets etc (most only have body gaskets and O-ring seals, so this was worth sitting on the fence for) So I got serious and started breaking this weirdo carb down and clean every component properly - there was gunk packed into every crevice on it in places I couldn't see. The auto choke was sluggish from the get go and I thought that was simply a quirk of this Weber but after stripping it I discovered the shafts were clogged with fouled up grease that looked like tar. A blast or 2 with the oven cleaner, a scrub with an old toothbrush and cotton buds (you guys called them Q-sticks or something like that...) and I discovered this grey stuff called 'die-cast metal' under it. I polished up the shafts on the internal linkages and reassembled them. The tensioner spring in the choke linkages was fiddly to reinstall but once I had it in place, the auto choke was snapping like a mouse trap. A lot easier than adjusting the choke butterfly tension on the Mikuni.

    I've test fitted the auto choke release assist, accelerator enrichment pump and the idle up solenoid diaphragm with only one diaphragm left to install - a small one that for the life of me I have no idea what it does, but I have to pull apart the throttle linkages to get to it. As an added bonus the Carbole 42S fuel pump came in the mail this week. Baby steps but steps none the less...
    Last edited by geezer101; 05-31-2019 at 03:18 PM.
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  6. #56

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    I got to the mystery diaphragm yesterday. It has a screw through the middle of it that acts as a linkage pivot point for what appears to be a bowl vent. The diaprhragm itself was not only as hard as a rock but the screws on the cover were loose. As a result, gunk had found it's way inside of it and clogged up vacuum galleries. If the Lancia this carb came off was still running, I'd imagine it wasn't running nicely. I'm about to take the big step and pull all of the throttle shafts and butterflies out of this sucker as it will be the only way I'll be able to give it the thorough clean it needs before properly installing the rebuild kit. Man, there are a ton of springs, linkages and shims in there. Nothing like the Mikuni...
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  7. #57

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    I got my Scooby Doo on and figured out what the small diaphragm is - it's the diaphragm to the power valve. The carb is now down to the bare body and she was clogged up bad. Lots of debris and garbage in the gallery passing through the throats that joins the fuel bowl from either side. The emulsion galleries were sludged up along with every other air or fuel gallery, and the small check valve in the power valve assembly was jammed from gunk. To top it off the secondary throat was bypassing due to the body of the carb not being true. A half hour of rubbing it back with 400 grit paper and water on a sheet of glass refaced it to an acceptable finish (I did accidentally roll the carb body on one or 2 passes but it only rounded the far outer edge next to 2 of the top cover screws so fingers crossed it should seal ok with the new gasket)

    I pulled the main jets and emulsions, soaked them in a citric acid bath and polished them back up. The butterfly shafts are a bit on the worn out side but should be serviceable with a blast of white lithium spray. The linkages and shafts aren't moving freely so the lithium should stop the binding and protect the metal from future wear. I cleaned up a few small sharp edges in the main venturis and polished them up. Last job on my list is to clean the auxilliary venturis up and have a shot at reassembling this thing.
    If it's a fail I'll have a nice paperweight to add to my collection
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  8. #58

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    Did a JY field trip today in search of a brake booster and master cylinder upgrade. The Gen 1/L200 will only allow a booster with about 220mm diameter max or it'll foul the inner fender. I pulled one but by the time I'd got it out and cobbled another master to it, I'd realised I'd goofed and picked a unit that didn't have long enough mounting studs. During this frustrating exercise, one very rotten and beaten up 4x4 L200 was in the row behind me that I hadn't noticed (this would be a great place to grab an old school truck right now - a Datsun, 2 Toyotas and a Mazda or 2 - rough but mostly complete bodywise...) The Gen 1 had a tray rear (unusual), no interior to speak of other than the factory wheel but the windscreen was new. Pristine NEW. With my boy next to me, we rolled as much of the bad rubber seal back from the cab, put our feet up on the glass and gently pushed it out a little bit at a time. Came out without a hitch While we were trying not to destroy my new acquisition, my rear end was getting destroyed by the junk on the cab floor. I dug some of it out of the way in an attempt to get as comfortable as possible and I unearthed a factory analog clock from the truck! Bonus round!! My $220 replacement windscreen issue was laid to rest. I cashed in a yard credit note that was dangerously close to expiring and walked out with new glass and a rough but possibly salvageable analog clock for $23. A good day for a field trip indeed.
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  9. #59

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    Another trip to the JY has yielded results. This time I found a very good brake booster off a 2.8 TD Pajero that someone had already removed the master cylinder from. Only difference between the turbo diesel brake booster and a regular unit is a vacuum sender switch fitted to it. My previous trip was a bust due to me removing a brake booster that didn't have a spacer behind it (the mounting studs were way too short) but the master cylinder was probably the best one I could find in the yard. I abandoned it at the gates but it made it's way to the salvage bins where I put it through round 2 and bolted it to the second booster (finally got it right this time!). On the way out of the yard I decided to find a seatbelt warning light out of an old Volvo that I might be able to rig up in conjunction with the Peugeot seats. I liked the big, chunky look of the warning light bezel and Gen 1's are pretty spartan on the safety stuff.

    I got my haul home, looked over what I needed to do to make it go together and cleaned up the brake booster assembly. This wasn't a bargain like the windscreen but the discount I got from the last visit made it reasonable and I did eventually get exactly what I wanted - $83 AUD (I had to get a new cab overhead valet light for the Hung Dog as the wagon had been broken into and some a-hole damaged it while trying to find a viable light source to burrow through all of the garbage on the floor). I picked up a 9mm high speed drill bit so I could make the necessary mods to fit the brake booster (the lower mounting holes are about 10 mm further away). I swapped the pedal yoke from the original brake booster (the new boosters' pedal yoke is shorter) and I used the booster firewall spacer as a drill guide. I had to adjust the pedal yoke so the pedal had a little free play and bent the crap out of the stock solid lines to make them fit as the rear brake line out on the master cylinder is facing the wrong way and the booster is wider and thicker. The only thing I need to address now is the brake level warning sender which is actually in the side of the single reservoir tank and the wiring from the harness is not long enough to reach. So now the 'guts' of the braking system has been fully upgraded. The new booster just fits with a few mm to spare (overall width is approx 220mm) and the 2 separate brake reservoirs have been replaced by one single standard reservoir. The master cylinder body is alloy with a 15/16" bore which should be ok with the twin piston fronts I've got waiting.
    I feel like I've finally made some progress - all I need to do now is post the pictures or it didn't happen
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  10. #60

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    There should be a blanked off seatbelt light in your 1st gen cluster geezer, the ones i have here do

    its all set up, just needs a bulb and being connected


    edit*
    i have the guts of the one i cut up for my holden gauges to go in to. i would say that the framework of any markets instrument cluster would be identical, but maybe yours could have a solid blanking piece rather than the coloured plastic behind the face. if it does i can just send you the appropriate bits, they will fit in a letter
    Last edited by tortron; 06-13-2019 at 01:19 PM.

  11. #61

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    ^ is it the idiot door light? I'll have to look up how to wire the seatbelt sensor switches. I have the base cab instrument panel but that is being stashed away as part of my parts stockpile.
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  12. #62

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    And now, dem brakes -

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    Booster is off a 2.8 TD. The master is from a Gen 3 or similar vintage Pajero

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    My not so beautiful brake line reroute. You can see the brake fluid level socket in the side of the reservoir.

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    The booster spacer is the same thickness as the original and allows clearance for everything on the firewall.

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    The booster is close to the inner fender but not in any risk of being fouled by anything.

    Next up will be control arms and the Gen 2 hub assemblies with the twin piston calipers and the braided brake hoses and the last few parts of the front end assembly (stabiliser bar and radius rods hardware) and I can call the front done!
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  13. #63

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    No it's a seatbelt light
    It's between charge and oil lights on the right of the unit (there's another battery symbol on the opposite side too)
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