Autohubs not locking in 4wd, 94 MM 3.0
This past winter, I have had to use the 4wd several times, more than normally, hence the 5 snow storms. I am having a problem with the hubs not locking in at all. I remember the 1st snow storm we had, it didn't lock in a first, it took several tries. I think I know what the problem is, could regreasing the hubs with synthetic grease be a problem? This is the run down of what has happen....
1st. I replaced the left front wheel bearings and used synthetic grease. The second time I had it in 4wd is when it took several times to get it locked.
2nd. When I was not needing 4wd on the main road, I stopped at the gas station, took it out from 4wd, backed up from the parking spot to unlock the hub, went down the road, then it starting making this loud grinding noise. Upon a few attempts of locking it back in then unlocking it, no success. But it would not grind If i had it locked in but was just in 2wd. So, this went on for several weeks, making sure the hubs were locked but I wouldn't actually be driving in 4wd.
3rd. I went through the effort to take the right hub off (that's where the grinding noise appeared to be coming from), went through it and cleaned it, regreased it with the same type of synthetic grease. Still no luck.
4th. My finale attempt, I got some dual piston calipers from a montero I decided to swap in. So I took everything off, cleaned it, regreased it, and when I put it all back together, I drove around the parking lot, I had the hubs locked then but not in 4wd, I noticed i still had some grinding to do on the caliper, so i put it back on the lift, and while on the lift up in the air, I put it reverse to unlock the hub. Maybe that would work. WELL...Since then, I haven't had to have it locked at all but now I can't get the hubs to lock at all.
I believe I am doing something in error, mind you, I have a two year degree in auto tech. Is the grease I'm using cause the springs to stick in the hub or could I be that I am over tightning the bearings? I REALLY don't want to buy manual hubs, I rather go to junkyard and buy hubs from there, but, I only know of one in a certain local junkyard that I don't want to touch unless I have to.
Had the same problem on my 88 D50 I took both hubs apart and cleaned the hubs out and re-greased them (regular grease) plus I re-shimmed them as I changed out the bearings/CV shafts at the same time. They worked fine after that!
I would use manual hubs. Then you know your in or out. I ordered my ford with manual hubs because I don't trust the vacuum systems.
There is not much to make them lock. So if they grind they pretty much go bad real quick. They only move about 1/8 inch to lock in.
Like i said, I really not into the idea of buying manual hubs. When I get a hold of Alldata, I'll check the torque spec on the bearing.
Originally Posted by camoit
measure return spring (outermost spring) free length (DIAMETER distance for 360 degree rotation should be 35mm or 1.4"), measure shift spring free length (distance for 360 degree rotation should be 30mm or 1.2"), grease:sae J310a / nlgi grade#2, free wheeling hub body assembly 50 - 58 Nm (37 - 43 ftlbs) best of luck
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