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Thread: code 41 injector need some help

  1. #1

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    Post code 41 injector need some help

    was getting a code 41 which is injector code,replaced the injectors and i still get the same code at an idle. If you get in the truck,start and take off driving it will not set the code. soon as you come to idle the cel comes on. I checked the ecm and everything checked to specs. any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2


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    where do you get a code 41? 13 is the injector code in the Haynes Manual... and there are only 18 codes...

    beyond that, the harness, or more likely the connector at the firewall, has corrosion and is throwing off the resistance to the injectors.
    how do ya like those little wire retainers on the injectors?

  3. #3



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    No LSR Mike code 13 is intake air temp sensor. Code 41 is for injectors. My suggestions are to check what LSR Mike said, thats about the only things it could be

    Link for list of ECU codes and how to easily check them: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ents:ECU+Codes
    Josh
    09 BMW 335i E92 Twin turbo
    89 Macrocab 4g63 Turbo swapped & Bagged: Build Thread

  4. #4


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    Ahh, looking at the wrong side of the chart. I stand corrected.

  5. #5

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    i found when i moved the wiring harness at the ecm it killed the motor and then started missing when i fired it back up. pushed the wiring harness around some and started running smooth i think it is going to be in the wiring connector,I bet that will be a joy to change

  6. #6


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    at the ECU? interesting. It's not that bad to change the connector or get the pins out. I had to change out the plastic housing on the middle connector when I broke off the locking tab.

    go to the pick & pull, find an eclipse (Mighty Max is hard to find) The connectors are the same. Cut the harness as far back as you can, then you have the plugs and good wire with the pins. You can then use the wire and pins to replace the bad wires you find. Most wiring problems are in the last 2 inches near the connectors. way better to solder on a new 3-6 inch section than try and crimp pins on a short wire. Especially down in the passenger foot well. Also take out the glove compartment.. makes it easier, trust me.

    I converted my ignition to a Dual coil setup from an Eclipse and AEM EMS when I turbo'ed the truck. had to add some wiring to do it and move some pins around.


  7. #7

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    thanks for the info, is a mighty max ecm the only one you can use in the truck, i would like to find am ecm i can just try before i purchase one

  8. #8


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    Unfortunately Yes. the firmware is the big difference. Wythville, been thru there a few times... do you think the ECU is bad instead of the wiring?

  9. #9

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    this morning got in the truck and it would not start. pushed on the wire next to the ecm and finally got it started but it was missing. pulled the ecm and the wires threw the firewall. then i laid the ecm on the air intake I cleaned all the connectors and it started. but i can move the plugs in the ecm and would change the motor running. hold the plugs a certain way and it ran smooth as a dollar. put a little pressure on the yellow plugs and it would run great, let the pressure off and start missing again. I finally shimmed the connectors and it would run pretty good. feels to me like it is in the ecm female plug port. iam going to try to find an ecm and change it out. As long as i keep the rpms around 850 it will not set the cel code for injectors, so iam pretty sure the ecm has a bad place in it.

  10. #10



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    sounds like cold solder joints on the connector pins - resolder them on the board and look at the capacitors (little round cans on board) to see if they leaked - if they did, they need replaced.
    Pennyman1
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