The Evo IV-IX blocks are FWD style blocks reverse oriented to the DSM. As a result, there is an axle in the same spot as one of the bolts for the bell housing. There is no trans that will bolt right up without either leaving bolts out, or using an adapter. You may also run into bellhousing issues because the flywheel is very large in the Evo blocks (not so much on a narrow 2.0 truck). They are also 7 bolt blocks - not 6.

Mounts holes are almost exactly the same between every 4G6X engine. My G64 8V has the same bolt holes as my G64 DOHC. Either way you slice it, you will still have to build custom mounts or smash your firewall in to fit the engine in just like the DSM.

If you read my build thread, you will find just about all the info you want on these engines and blocks. The block I am using is a 4G64 from a Montero Sport with a Sonata head. The Sonata and Evo heads are almost identical. The only significant difference is the combustion chamber size (Sonata is larger because of 2.4 vs. 2.0 Evo). You can use either a Sonata head with all the Evo parts/upgrades (since all the Evo bits are direct fit - valves, springs, cams, etc.), or just stick an Evo IV-VIII head on it. Adding MIVEC to a 4G6X is possible with a feed kit or machine work. People have done it 100 times over. You will need a MIVEC head though.

As stated earlier - the IM and EM are on the opposite side. The Evo turbos do not reverse mount, so it will face the firewall. It also wont fit on a RWD oriented block because the starter is in the way. The Evo starters are more toward the bottom of the engine, not the side. A custom manifold and DP will have to be built (no big deal to any competent fabricator). There is also no intake manifold that will bolt up allowing the TB to face the front. You can "DSM" it and weld a TB plate to the other side of a Sonata/Optima manifold or Evo manifold. The only problem is the Sonata/Optima manifold is built for economy mode (not performance), so they flow like shit. The Evo manifolds taper down and the runners shift to make them equal. If you add a TB to the other side, you will end up with performance issues in some form or another. It would be best to have a custom SMIM made to fit your build.

Cooling lies and thermostat housings are also issues (like the DSM in a MM). I only know of a couple solutions. The ultimate solution is using the Montero Sport T-stat housing that sits on the side of the block (not the back of the head), and adding a upper radiator hose pipe to the head. See my build thread - you will see exactly what I mean.

Also in my build thread is how to make a short shifter. Cutting down a shifter handle only makes it shorter. Short shifters actually change the geometry to reduce the throw. Technically speaking, chipping off a few inches will reduce the throw travel, but nothing else. The range stays the same, the slop remains, and all it remains is a cut shifter.... doesn't really make a short shifter.

So at the end of the day, you may ask if all of this is possible.... yup. How much you want to spend is the ultimate question. I build custom cars and parts for a living, so it's not a big deal for me to take on a job like this. If you are not able to do the same, you may go broke paying someone to build it.