No need to be skeerd. The valve seals are removed...gently! but firmly with channel locks or pliers. The main thing is to not score or scratch the stems they sit on. Grip them and pull upward while twisting back and forth. Get one off, you'll know how to do the rest. The Haynes book shows someone using needle-nose pliers, lifting up from the bottom of the seal. I found the twist-and-shout pliers method productive.

As for installing the new seals: read my build thread and you'll see I had a difficult time getting any insights until the job was done. I soaked my seals in some Mystery Oil first (30wt will work). Be sure to use the plastic straw thing that comes with the seals: this helps keep them from getting damaged while being installed over the stem they live on. (You only get one or two straws, use it for each seal. Don't throw it away. Once the seal is in place comfortably, remove the straw thing and put it on the next stem to be worked on). Twist the seals down into place as far as you can by hand. Once mine were down as far as I could, I tapped gently on the metal surface of the seals with a socket (actually, I bought a stainless steel sleeve of that diameter) until they felt solidly seated.

Chin up, Mitchi, you have support here. Working on these trucks is a lot like sex: once you get the hang of it, you're suddenly finished.

The difference is: you don't have to put these trucks through college 18 years from now.