'90 MM 2.4L FI Build

[BradMph]

Man royster, thanks.................mileage I'll check and post when I get home from work tonight

I was figuring on the cylinders looking ok. So pulling the oil pan was a little premature too i guess. Lesson learned.

I did do the test on the head, taking the cam out and having all the valves closed, and turned up. Filled the cavities with brake clean first and within a few hours all the cavities were empty, someone, I think my brother told me that was too thin of liquid, so I used 5w motor oil and that took several days and the #1 cavity was the one that leaked out.

So I'm guessing I may have some valve issues, but, the stealership told me it was #2 cylinder that failed the leak down test, and I did have to pull #2 plug and clean it on occasion, to get it to run a very minute little bit better.

Thanks for the advise, and I will pull that plenun out tonight and start cleaning it and the EGR valve.

Cam Removal (12).jpg Cam Removal (15).jpg

Nuttin wrong with using thin fluid to do a check. Water is used and I think some even used fuel. If it takes several days to leak through I wouldn't freak out on it. The oil is a little thick for testing IMO.
I would suggest a valve guide seal replacement if you want something to do and dig into it. You'll need a spring compressor and get a valve grinder tool and some lapping stuff and the correct seals, and have some fun. You can check then if a valve is bent by the wear on the stems and the entire job is actually very easy to do.

Leak down testing the pistons will pretty much test your oil ring seals though the ole compression test is the way to test compression rings and tells the story on the rating of each cylinder. This will help you to start your search on what place to look first.

Nasty EGR valves get carbonized so bad with soot and un burnt fuel residue. You probably need a coat hanger or like a rifle barrel cleaner rod tool with the wire brush tips to clean the tube through the head. Depending on last time cleaned I'm sure you will get a pretty significant amount of black garbage.

Check your cylinder walls for wobble scuffing. IN the photos It looks like I see some or it's the photo. Sometimes older engine will start to wobble the pistons a bit because of worn wrist pins. Though your head looks pretty decent and all look close to the same. Piston top edges look decent also, nothing too terribly different from others I have senn.

[mitchi]

Nuttin wrong with using thin fluid to do a check. Water is used and I think some even used fuel. If it takes several days to leak through I wouldn't freak out on it. The oil is a little thick for testing IMO.
I would suggest a valve guide seal replacement if you want something to do and dig into it. You'll need a spring compressor and get a valve grinder tool and some lapping stuff and the correct seals, and have some fun. You can check then if a valve is bent by the wear on the stems and the entire job is actually very easy to do.

Leak down testing the pistons will pretty much test your oil ring seals though the ole compression test is the way to test compression rings and tells the story on the rating of each cylinder. This will help you to start your search on what place to look first.

Thank for the comments Brad........I actually did a compression check b4 the stealership visit,, and got:

#1 = 150, 150, #2 = 150, 150, #3 = 150, 150, #4 = 160, 162.

7 revolutions each.

Tested twice.