Quote Originally Posted by royster View Post
If #1 is leaking, you might do well to remove the valves and see if one is warped. They're dirt cheap to replace, though I don't recommend replacing all of them. Increasing the compression with a tighter head will put pressure on the old block components...so don't do a valve job, per se, just replace any valves that are warperd or bent.

Valve spring compressors are $20 at any auto parts store.

Once you have the valve springs off, see if you can spin the valves in their guides. Probably not, but they're supposed to spin freely during normal use. A little cleaning gets them so thay'll spin, and you can watch closely to see if th edge appears to go up and down as you spin.

Replacing the valve seals is a must, since you've gone this far, and from experience I'll tell you: do that on the bench while the head's out. Doing it with the head bolted to the engine is cumbersome.

Clean out that whole EGR passage, through the head and manifolds. I used Seafoam spray, and let it set overnight. I used some wire to plunge the passageways, sprayed them with brake cleaner to really douche them out.

Spend a couple bucks more and get the good head casket set: it will have additional gaskets and seal you will appreciate. Save the ones you don't use, like the water pump gasket and the silent shaft seal@ the oil pump.
Kewl, thanks again....will do. I was thinking of taking the head to a shop.

The extra bucks gasket you speak of, got any recommendations? The one's I was going to buy will cost me 90 bux at a local parts store?

And the valve seals, any particular ones?

Thanks