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Thread: 1989 Mighty Max engine rebuild

  1. #151

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    It sounds like timing. The timing light shows when spark occurs with relation to crank position. If all the ignition wires are properly connected and in the correct firing order, and you can't keep it idling at 7-10 degrees advance, my guess would be you have a valve timing issue. Being one tooth off on the timing belt might be the cause.

  2. #152

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    I checked the two belt timing marks multiple times they are both dead on. And as far as the firing order i went by what the haynes manual shows.

  3. #153




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    could the dizzy be off 1 tooth?
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  4. #154

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    Well that's my thought. i got so frustrated with getting that in place and running i have no idea if its in time or not, i got to a point where i was guessing and going by if it sounded like it was going to start. I didn't realize the gear had a timing mark on it until a couple hours ago, so i went by placement of the rotor and where it was pointing. i just don't want to take that out and end up with it all messed up again. Am i right in thinking that there are timing marks on the distributor?

  5. #155

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    You can mark the distributer below the cap right under where the #1 cylinder wire is. Then take the cap off and turn the engine with a ratchet until the timing mark hits TDC. One end of the rotor should line up with the mark you made. If it doesn't then your distributer is off a tooth. Just pull it out until you can just turn the rotor and move it one tooth. If it lines up with your mark when you push it back in it should be good.

  6. #156

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    So I took the truck out for a little today. Everything seems to be resolved. Even the studdering and jerking it did at a constant speed before. The only thing is I think I still have some tiny timing issue. When I really punch the gas it seems a little sluggish.

  7. #157



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    As long as it is not Jerking and that is causing the stuttering, lol Im sorry I couldn't help it.

    Glad your trucks working better...Is your distributor advancing ok for you, accelerator pump squirting into carb, Vacuum lines all good. Timing should be around 7º BTDC? Should have that on a sticker under hood. Check the burn by looking at plugs, might help show lean or rich. Sluggish sounds like a lean problem.

  8. #158

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    well the 7degrees is what i can't get. It runs and starts so well, however the last time i checked the timing the mark was around 11 o'clockish. I haven't checked since i got it working so well so maybe it came around and is on the mark now, i'll have to check and get back to you.

  9. #159

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    I'm assuming by saying 11:00 that your telling us your timing is advanced. Did you disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the hose when checking the timing? If you did and you can't get the timing down to between 7 and 10 degrees at around 800 rpm you might be a bit too lean as Brad mentioned. What kind of timing light are you using?

  10. #160

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    Well i got her out and started her up, ran a little rough for a couple minutes and then smoothed out. I still think there is a carb issue so i'm going to finally take to to a carb guy to look at and give his 2 cents.

    also unfortunately i have a couple drips (half dollar sized) under the engine everytime i park it, so i have a leak somewhere towards the back of the engine, i believe its anti-freeze since thats what i smell, as well as the consistency of color of the liquid under the vehicle matches. unfortunately in my town is impossible to get pressure tubing\hose on this truck now.
    Last edited by asmyser; 04-09-2015 at 10:52 AM.

  11. #161

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    can you see around your heater hoses to see if its wet there?

  12. #162

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    Yeah, i'm pretty sure its coming from somewhere around the heater hoses on the back side of the engine. however, it is reall yhard to see with the air filter on, so i'll hav eto run it for a little someday and then take the air filter and housing off so i can see back there to locate it.

  13. #163

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    Well the dreaded leak was right where i should have thought it would have been. The valve cover didn't make a good seal towards the back drivers side. I took it apart and found the leak once i could see better back there. i ran it for about 15 miles and it appears that there is no leak yet. Now to get it inspected and registered again, and then take her to the carb guy to work his magic...

  14. #164

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    So while doing my quarterly backup of all my stuff i found my pictures from 2008 when i replaced the front end of my truck
    Photo_122008_001.jpgPhoto_122008_002.jpgPhoto_122008_003.jpgPhoto_122008_004.jpg

  15. #165

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    Quote Originally Posted by asmyser View Post
    I need to know where 3 and 4 go to on the card, i believe i either have issues with timing, or the fuel lines being swapped.I'm pretty sure i got the fuel pump installed properly with the pin installed properly and all that.

    Attachment 12499
    What does the first one go to

  16. #166

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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by asmyser View Post
    I need to know where 3 and 4 go to on the card, i believe i either have issues with timing, or the fuel lines being swapped.I'm pretty sure i got the fuel pump installed properly with the pin installed properly and all that.

    Attachment 12499
    i need to know what the first goes to

  17. #167

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    So i dropped a new battery in it this past weekend and took her out for a spin. After some new gas it ran well. But still doesnt seem to be times right or something. Theres alot of rattle at "bogged down"/low rpm running, and im not sure where to start. Ive come to get some help if at all possible, lets see if we cant get it running like its prime again. I appriciate any help anybody can give.

  18. #168

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    One detail that i believe is important, it idles perfect, for hours

  19. #169

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    Check that your vacuum advance on the distributor is working. Every distributor I have looked at in JY's have non-functioning vacuum units. This will definitely kill acceleration from a standing start and throttle response. p.s. new genuine distributors are still available from various Mitsubishi parts warehouses from as little as $42 US.

  20. #170

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    Ok, can you give me some more direction as to how to do that, do you mean for just leaks or anything in particular?

  21. #171

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    Easy to test it - take the vacuum hose for the distributor advance from the carb end and suck on it. If you can draw air through it without it holding vacuum, the diaphragm inside of it has split. Hopefully this will help to identify the problem and you can get back to enjoying the truck running properly again.

  22. #172

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    I checked the vacuum, seems fine. Unsure of what to check next.

  23. #173

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    Anybody else have any ideas for me? I Guess i could always check the timing again.

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