I did.
I did.
I have no personal experience regarding this topic, but from what I've read, you will regret eliminating the balance shafts within 10,000 miles. My only experience with the silent shafts is them being out of sync, and the vibration it caused.
I wish you well on the (beautiful!) rebuild, but you might have engineered a fatal flaw into the rebuild by eliminating the shafts. Time will tell, and I trust that if there ARE ill-affects, you'll report them here.
As today is my last day on the internet, I'm glad to have gotten the chance to see the photos. I hope to post a few more, myself, before disappearing into the real world. You did some wonderful work, and I'm sure you'll be very satisfied with your beautiful truck.
Any insight on this by chance? And thank you.Originally Posted by asmyser
Have you tried messing with your carburetor adjustment screw? Kind of sounds like it could be running lean or rich as far as the sputtering goes.
Also looks like the stock carburetor, have you thought about upgrading? I know the stock carbs fail a lot.
Well if you could point me in the right direction of the screw of adjustment that eould be fantastic. I thought about new but have not decided on it yet.
For the record i did find that it needed to be capped, so i went to the auto parts store and picked up a variety pack of rubber vacuum caps and replaced all of the on the carb. The engine purrs now, i just have the fine tune the timing and she will be ready to run.
Ok fellas. I need some help still. Ajy input would be greatly appriciated. The truck still isnt running right. I believe the issue is with tje carb or fuel pump. The issue i have is when i am driving at a constant speed or drifting in gear the engine buckles and pulseates the entire truck. It does not happen when i accelerate or when idleing. Thanks in advance!!!?
Is the truck lifted? Check the driveline and pinion angle. Maybe check the motor and transmission mounts, too. Wild ass guess.
still sounds like carb/ignition timing/vacuum (assuming you changed fuel & air filters).....i realize you have the stock carb but some troubleshooting points in this bulletin (updated by bradmph) may help http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...8&d=1399705464 if you have trouble viewing....most of it is also scanned on my file.
not lifted or lowered. I've never replaced the EGR valve, do you think this could possibly be the issue?
i think it would be more consistent with defective EGR. they are pricey....you can clean it, the SUB EGR, & pcv. give more symptoms to work with (black exhaust smoke?) & what you have replaced/added.
The pcv is new. Most of everything is replaced except intake, starter, and alternator. I have no noticeable symptoms other then it pulsating during constant movement and slowing down while in gear.
under what conditions can you make the symptom happen? a specific speed? a specific rpm? will it only occur when in motion? u-joints in good condition? spark plug condition give any clues?
Maybe it's time for a Weber carb. These stock carbs (Mikuni) seem to be a lot of the problems with erratic engine running.
And what happen to the "The engine purrs now, i just have the fine tune the timing and she will be ready to run. "?
Is there something your not telling us here after it was running so well? Don't chase the problem with money unless your sure it will fix it.
Jumped the gun a bit i fear. It idles great after timing it. No specific speed or rpm. Just when in gear going at a constant speed and when not applying gas. How difficult is it to replace the carb? And what type of cost approx. Is attached to that?
It's not hard to replace carb. Weber gives all the directions and we also have manuals here you can download on an install also. The Weber kits come with all the hardware and gaskets, you will have to do a little thought on the linkage connection but it hardly can be called difficult. You should be able to replace a carb in a few hours and have it running and mixture set. It's one of the best increases in horsepower and I think I even get better fuel mileage with my Weber. You will have to block off your EGR valve stuff probably since it will not be really used, but Weber gives all the info on what is to be done. We can help also if you have any problems since over half the members probably run them or have. The carbs run from about $250 to $300 and you'll never have to deal with the old Mikuni again. You can probably clean it up and sell it on Craig's list or EBay and make some money back to help pay for the new carb. If you do buy a Weber, Redline is a good place and EBay, but look around to find a good price. Most of all be sure you get the real weber and not these fakey Webers that people find on the web.
If you have to have your vehicle smog certified, you may check what your allowed to do by way of changes in your state. My vehicle is exempt from smog test now because of it's manufacture date.
I'm not trying to push a carb on you, make your own choice if you find out your carb is bad and it will cost more to fix then getting another carb.
Ok, i figure its something with the carb/intake/something on that side of the engine, it has to be, i just need to figure out how to pinpoint the issue. I would like to just replace the carb with a nicer one anyway, but have never delved into that line of engine compartment work and it scares me a bit.
also if its just the egr valve, replacement cost on that would be alot less than a new carb. Also if i got the new carb is there any other part i shoul dbe replacing while it is off?
Alrighty, so i took the egr off and found that elusive vacuum hose leak:
20140531_090229.jpg
While everything is off i replaced the vacuum hose, The EGR seems to be alright, its got some buildup but it seems to be functioning properly. I did the "depress and hold your finger over the hole" test and it passed that, but that's as much as i know about them. I also replaced the gasket. Still got some leaks, and i'm not 100% sure its running perfect yet, but that seemed to make a difference. I think my timing is off at the distributor which may be causing some of my other issues. I'm also going to run some fuel system cleaner through the second tank of gas and possibly a bottle or two over the next couple tanks. I'll post an update in a couple days to verify how it is running.
Ok. I need some kore expert help. The truck seems to run three times better. But there is still a leak under the hood. It may be normal bust i need advice. There is a hose coming off the fuel pump the spritizs when the truck is running. Im not exactly sure what this is.
There is a hose that is attached and gets routed under the oil pan and then is open. Im not sure how else to explain without pictures
It's spraying fuel? Don't drive it in that condition!
Well it some sort of overflow or something. Im just not sure if its supposed to be doing this or not.
ok, so i didn't get an updated picture. On the fuel pump the pictures of the thing below attaches to the pump, is this supposed to go under the truck like it does, is this supposed to be fed somewhere else? And is it supposed to spritz when running under the truck like it does? I may even have it rigged up wrong, dut this is the only cable i removed from the fuel pump that didn't go somewhere else within the truck, so if its supposed to that might be som eof my problems as well.
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