It definitely has a torque converter. If it was going bad, it would sound like slipping and higher RPM's without power. Two cents.
It definitely has a torque converter. If it was going bad, it would sound like slipping and higher RPM's without power. Two cents.
It depends on what you're looking for in the truck, what you have to spend, and what the truck has on it according to the odometer. They aren't a waste on a high mileage truck that came with a carb originally ...in fact it is only a matter of time before the Weber is the only viable choice you have.Originally Posted by ram50bam
The original Mikuni has a plastic body/throttle bore-what happens is that the shaft that the throttle blades are affixed to wears at the plastic body (bakelite actually) that causes an internal vacuum leak that cannot be fixed by rebuilding. Not only that, but the Mikuni cannot be tuned with jetting changes. Once you get a Weber set up properly, it's 'set and forget'.
If you really want more power any number of MPFI 4s, V-6s and small V-8s will fit in that engine bay- 3000GT V-6, 3800 Series II Buick V-6 (one of the best choices for combined power and economy IMO)...all kinds of choices.
Yank the motor and swap in one from a junkyard if you really want more power. The thing would be scary fast with the right V-8 if you did it right. Bullet proof 283 Chevy that will turn 7000-7500? You talk about FUN LOL...I would do that to a rust free body if life circumstances permitted.
That said- the Weber was not a waste for me. It was a Godsend.
When the original Mikuni finally went on mine, the truck could not get out of it's own way on the interstate. Slow lane with 4-way flashers going...40-45 MPH top speed...
Pay your money and take you're choice.
Would that sound like a "Sputtering" when I hit 70 MPH? Cause that's what I here when I do...
No, I would suspect sputtering to be caused by a distributor problem...that elusive vacuum leak. If the internal diaphram is leaking, your girlfriend can still get pregnant.
Oh wait: different diaphram.
While I hear testimonies of the carborated trucks being "gutless wonders", you should still be able to get some "oomphfff" out of your engine. It sure sounds like a timing problem somewhere.
LOL Damn it I should just drive this friggin thing the 8 hours up to you so you can help me! LOL
Here is my .03 cents- take it for what it's worth. If you have an original carb, I think it has given up the ghost.Would that sound like a "Sputtering" when I hit 70 MPH? Cause that's what I here when I do...
Mine had that 'sputtering' too. The truck acted like two spark plug wires were crossed once it got really hot under hood. The hotter the motor got, the worse it ran. Once it gets really hot out (looks like you're in GA) it's really going to run like shit. This is what happened to me back in July 2007 with 280,000 miles and the original carb and no motor changes whatsover.
It is difficult to diagnose drivability problems over the internet, but tell us more about the truck's configuration as it sits right now. Original carb? Fuel pump? Odometer mileage? Need to know more, but if you have the original carb, I truly feel you about to enter the 'Weber World'.
That's my .03 cents.
P.S. You may have a distributor problem, but that depends on if the truck has sat for years w/o running for example. Some of the original components on these trucks last forever. I still have the original distributor on mine with 346K.
Give us the complete back story on the truck.
And also tell us what the emissions laws are in GA...
so the carb swap could give us back the power and acceleration and get my truck past 55 in a normal time frame? is there any way of knowing for sure the carb is the problem? is there a cheaper alternative than the weber? seems expensive. also, every time I push in my clutch it revs a lil higher for a few seconds before dropping?
I'd be prone to listen to originalowner, particularly since the Voice Of Experience speaks, there.
From what I've read by the experienced guys here on the forum, "cheap" ends up being "costs twice as much" over the long term. Their experience begs those who will listen to do it right the first time.is there a cheaper alternative than the weber?
My own build thread speaks of admitting I have to do it right, and completely, the first time. That's how enduring and satisfying results come about.
Otherwise you end up paying an arm and a leg in parts
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Ok here is the back story.
I bought this truck off the second owner. he got it from his boss.
The truck was used as a work vehicle on a construction site here in georgia by the fairgrounds.
The second owner used it as a daily driver he changed out the following:
- Fuel Pump and filter (Upon inspecyion by me today, he lied when he said it was an electric in the tank. The shop just swapped the busted mechanical one with a newer one behind the carb)
- replaced front shocks and four new cheapo tires from Tires plus here in Georgia (195/75/R14)
- It looks like the regular maintenance wasn't done in a timely manner.
Ok when I bought the truck and drove it home here is what I have done so far:
1. Oil change: used Delo 400, substituted one quart of that with Riselone. Added the ZDP addetive. used Purolator One premium filter (No shitty fram for me!)
2. Changed all 4 spark plugs, using NGK V-powers. Gapped them to spec at .040
3. Changed all plug wires one and a time as to not mess up the firing order.
4. Changed the distributor Cap and Button.
5. Changed the PCV Valve as the one in the truck seemed to be the ORIGINAL factory one and it was clogged pretty bad.
6. Used Lucas fuel treatment with every fill up (I noticed MPG and HP gain after the second fill up!)
Now to clear up something. The truck does NOT run bad in fact it runs and sounds One THOUSAND percent better than it did when I first got it home. I do not have hesitation when I hit the gas it responds pretty snappy, not Fuel injection snappy but snappy none the less.
My only concern is that it will not climb past 70 MPH with out a very long straight away, as it starts to sputter if I mash the gas to get it past 70 quickly.
There are NO knocks or pings. It has Wide open throttle. It has ZERO vacuum leaks. Only noise that I hear is the exhaust blow-bye because the exhaust manifold may be cracked or it might have a blown gasket either at the block or where it connects to exhaust pipe flange.
So does that make a clearer picture for you guys. LOL
Oh and fas as Emissions laws go in GA...
The county I live in (Dodge, ironic isn't it) has NONE so i can run the smoggiest set up in the world and the law can do nothing about it. LMAO
Have you changed the fuel filter? Just tossing it out there. It's up in front of the tank or on the frame behind the driver.
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the answer to that question is my previous post.
The fuel filter and pump were swapped for new by PO.
and there are 2 fuel filters from what I saw. one by the tank, and a smaller one next to the carb above the new Mech pump.
Hmmmm...too much filtering, maybe. Like a clogged filter, it's okay at idle, but under demand for flow, two filters restrict the amount going out. Unless one of those filters is a return to the tank, I'd look into eliminating one of those filters somehow. Try it and see what the results are: you can always put one back.
I'd like to see members post their opinions about which filter to remove: my vote is the small one near the pump.
is the Emergency Brake on? (again, I couldn't help myself
Did I catch "none COMPUTER Mikumi"? I would suggest checking your base timing. Computers will mess with your head (and the timing), but if you do not HAVE a computer base timing is sort of important. That mechanical advance plate in the distributor only moves a few degrees on a good day; if the base timing is off by several degrees it can affect your high end a great deal!! Cheers!
PS; I have an '86 2.6 with the Mik "brain box" carburetor, and on the day I brought her home from down state I was being good (my philosophy is money is for fun, not traffic tickys). Imagine my surprise when I glanced down to check the instruments and found we were proceeding at 87 MPH!! Could not tell from the ride... even with the 14 inch tires. That is something on Pennsylvania roads. I soon installed a cruise control.
Last edited by Grumppa; 04-03-2014 at 12:27 PM. Reason: Added some background info.
No.
A Weber DGEV, Carter P4010 electric pump, and Holley 12-804 fuel pressure regulator and the related miscellaneous parts for the install will set you back around $500 bucks MAX if you do it yourself. The only cheaper alternative is to ride the bus.
If you do an install as described in the 2nd Gen fuel pump thread you will end up with 2.9psi of fuel pressure (just below the Weber recommended 3psi max) and plenty of flow.
Source the pump and regulator from StreetSideAuto.com and the carb from Pierce Manifolds or Redline Weber in Cali.
I am obsessed with doing things with a view towards cost effectiveness ONCE. That is just the way I am. The Facet electric pump? and 2nd Gen electric fuel pump install threads tell you everything you need to know on this topic.
Do it as outlined and you will be able to drive the truck w/o folks honking at you and flipping you the bird. Just remember, they have a car payment and insurance 10X more than you.
Kaos- I tend to agree with Royster that the motor is starved for fuel due to "over-filtering". Source a factory filter from Mitsu, they are like 5.00 bucks- that's all the fuel filtering you need... That said, I still think you will end up having to get a new carb- probably sooner than later.
20 years of writing service for a dealership group with every make under the sun showed me dozens and dozens of times that people will ignore sound advice to do it a "better/cheaper way" and they invariably ended up spending more than they should in the long run and had multiple headaches to boot.
Believe it guys. I can't argue with what I have seen with my own eyes.
The more I read stories about these trucks the more I think that people do 'repairs' because they think that what they are doing is some kind of magic wand to transform the vehicle into something that it is not. Or give it more power that nothing short of a motor swap will do.
They are what they are. Won't pull a greasy string out of a cat's ass. Or a sick whore off a piss pot. Bwahahaha:
But even so- you should still be able to keep up with modern traffic.
Brings to mind the guys in the 50s who still drove Model T pick-ups because they were so cheap to drive and own and you do all the mechanical work on the vehicle with a set of tools that fit in a fishing tackle box.
Another two copper coins for you; have you pulled one or two of your new spark plugs to check their color? What did the old ones look like? Cheers.
Last edited by Grumppa; 04-03-2014 at 12:24 PM.
Ah ha.. A new filter by the carb. But does the one under the rear look new? We have seen that trick before because they could not find it so just add one in and say it's new.
Give it a compression check and see what it's doing in there.
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How have you gone with diagnosing the power drop out at 70? Have you tested the secondary vac actuator on the carb? It's as simple as removing the vacuum hose to the actuator and applying some suction to it and holding it. If the actuator rod stays put, its good. If not, well, it's got a split in the diaphragm. Sometimes the vacuum leak isn't a huge split in the diaphragm but enough for the unit to lose vacuum over a few seconds of throttle. Replacing it doesn't require the carb being unbolted from the manifold - it should be dead easy to swap it for a good unit. Hope this is helpful.
& the "in tank" fuel filter accessible thru drain plug
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