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Thread: turbo?

  1. #1

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    turbo?

    ive got a airsearch m50 layin around im afraid all it would do is reduce my engine life is it possible/safe to run low boost without oilsquirters/forged pistons &rods also i know where a 4g63 engine w/no head is i take it heads are not interchangeable between 4g63 and g54b? i would get it if a bought this starion but he might seperate, just kickin it around.

  2. #2


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    with the money you will have to put out to get everything made one off to fit the turbo, you might as well build the engine to support it.

  3. #3



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    Not worth it IMO and no the 4g63 ans g54 are completely different motors

  4. #4


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    Personally and professionally speaking, if you think your engine will have an issue, you're probably right. If you don't care about potentially blowing it up, throw a little boost at it and see how long it lasts.

    Generally speaking, safe "low boost" on NA engines is typically 6-10 PSI. Some Mitsu engines can easily be pushed up to 15 PSI and handle it. Is it recommended that you do that? No. Most NA's that want to boost stock will get a 6 PSI build with some good safe tuning to make them last.

    If you want to do it right, rebuild your engine first or select a better engine to play with. There is no reason to skip steps or jack - ass a build together (thats my opinion).

  5. #5




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    Keep in mind also that the g54b truck block was the starting point for the starquest motor - forged crank, rods and heavy ribbed block for strength. If you put hypereutetic pistons in place of the stock ones - 15 PSI boost is easily handled with fresh stock internals. They run 100 to 150 a set vs 500+ for forged pistons.
    Pennyman1
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    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  6. #6

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    ive heard that blow through setups are a nightmare&drawthrough sounds dangerous if its not like greenwood or whatever anyway just thought id
    see what yall had to say&thanks

  7. #7


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    Options are limitless with the right budget. What are your target goals?

  8. #8

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    to tell you the truth it will be awhile before i do any
    performance upgrades ive still got to do all the resto stuff like paint bodywork&clutch got to replace the bed floor plus ive got a 71 blazer that im working on and ive got a 98 crv that i need to put a tranny in so im really busy for a while.

  9. #9


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    If you turbo, wait to do the clutch...or you can blow thru 2 of them like I did..

  10. #10


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    You can get the correct clutch for the application now and will run it while na. The flywheel/clutch assembly I have on right now will bolt to my factory g63b. So far slipping is minimal, tires are the only thing I notice that slip while in boost.

  11. #11

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    the clutch is totally gone so its no.1 on my list has any1 ever changed a clutch in a 4x4 ram 50 do i need to remove tcase from tranny before i remove the tranny just wonderin cause it appears relatively light. thanks

  12. #12

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    IF you can resist HUMAN "boost creep" and stay at 6psi or below, the engine should last with a RRFPR and proper timing reduction. Heck, STS has a non IC, NO TUNE kit that at 4 PSI has been run on Toyota Tacomas for 15 yrs!! without internet complaining of blown motors!... I think the 4g64 is a bit stronger, equally built a the 'yota motor...
    Subject change: Anyone seen the 4 PSI (NO SHIT)! electric supercharger being developed for FRS/BRZ? Interesting!! for sure!
    Phantomsuperchargers.com I think.. Dynos supplied!

  13. #13

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    i saw one of the electric turbos somewhere on the web they actually got more hp without it but i think they just had it warmed up
    better when they dynoed it without the turbo and the car may have been sitting so they may have just blown out some deposits
    running it hard first.

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