nice! looks smooth
nice! looks smooth
I just noticed in your pictures of the turbo, that the discharge line makes a 90. It looks like it's starting to kink. You might want to think about replacing the hose with a hard line from the turbo to the the pan. Then just use a 2" peace of hose to connect the two. If the line does not drain fast enough it can cook the oil in the turbo. Just a suggestion.
Is that a stock wheel?
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Thanks Ethan, smoothing it all took a lot of work.
The red oil drain hose for the turbo drops straight down and then bends gradually, i think the pic makes it look a little worse then it actually is. I check it all the time and there is no kink yet, thanks for the suggestion though. I do plan on replacing it and a lot of the other lines with stainless braided hose and an fittings, just dont have the money right now.
The steering wheel is from a 1st gen DSM(eclipse,talon,laser). Bolts right on all you have to do is enlarge the opening for tue wheel in the steering column covers.
Swapped out my gas tank for a 91 f.i. Mighty Max tank. I did this for two reasons; one to get rid of the loud, annoying external fuel pump mounted under my cab, and two to move the tank behind the axle for when I'm ready to 4-link it and also get a little more weight on the rear end. Not only that but my truck is idleing smoother and it seems to be running a lil bit better, probably because it was running a bit rich from the 255lph fuel pump.
New rear crossmember welded in and middle crossmember about to be cut out to make room for the tank.
New gas tanks mounted welded in and gas tank and new braided line installed.
New filler location in driver's rear corner.
what car differential u use?
It's just the stock truck rear end.
but is 5 bolts? my truck is 6 bolts
It was 6 lug just like all might maxs. I pulled the axles out and had them and the brake drums redrilled to 5 lug like the toyota front hubs I'm running.
awesome build.. I wish I woulda thought of this option b4 i rebuilt my g63b top to bottom. lol
anyways, I know it's been a few months since the last post, but how is your build coming along?
Nothing done since last post I don't think besides some maintenance and stuff. I did move where my fuel filler is located again, but nothing other than that. I am about to start working on a big brake kit within the next few weeks, already have some test rotors coming. After that I'll probably work on bagging it.
i see..great job on everything so far tho.
what about the reg. and smog situation? I hate how strict and pointless our laws are out here as opposed to every other state for example.. lol
Thanks for thethe compliments. My truck resides in a county where smog isnt required.
that makes sense. I guess I'll just have to move to a diff. county then..maybe Siskiyou or Sierra.
Lol yup you gotta do what you gotta do.
nicc....
Hey droppedmitsu I was reading that using a starion "transmission tail" on our 5 speed 2.0 tranny that it puts our shifter in the stock location after moving the engine and tranny forward is that true?and if so what year transmission tail do I get?
If you move the engine up 3" and use the starion housing it is "supposed" to be about stock location, but I couldn't tell you for sure as I didn't go that route. My motor is only moved up 1 7/8" and I used the truck tail section .
And did u have to make a transmission mount as well to move it up the 1 7/8's?
Ok and your shifter didn't move much it feels the same as stock
The shifter moved up 1 7/8", it still feels like stock, a lil more of a stretch. Yes I had to modify my tranny cross member also
Do you know where I can get a service/repair manual for a 4g63t engine?
Ebay, Look for an FSM (Factory Service Manual) for any of the DSM varients (Eclipse, Laser, Talon). These will also give you the wiring diagrams you will need if your planning on swaping...Originally Posted by Ram50808
Is the chilton or Hayes manual the same as the factory?
No, but some people like those for the price difference. I preffer the Mitsubishi/Dodge/Chrysler Manuals myself. The others do have alot of good information, but the others seem to go more into depth. You could rebuild your engine using a Chiltons or a Haynes, and there is a ton of good information there. I just preffer the FSM's. Maybe someone else cares to chime in...
Ill probly just spend the money for a factory manual
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