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Thread: Suction Pressure On Oil Filler Cap

  1. #1

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    Suction Pressure On Oil Filler Cap

    Hello, I would like to know if I should have suction pressure on the oil filler car as I remove it? I posted earlier that I put a new Timing belt on my 1988 2.0 MM and two days later it smokes like a freight train. I pulled the plugs today and they were really black and wet. I also checked the compression on each cylinder and they all checked good. I put a new set of plugs in and within two minutes it started the white smoke again. This has got me puzzled and I am hoping some one can help me out. I would also like to ask if anyone knows of a good mechanic on these trucks that is in or close to Winston Salem NC. Thanks

  2. #2

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    If the engine is running, yes, there would be some suction on the cap. It would also affect the idle when you remove the cap.

    Passed through Winston~Salem a couple years ago, but luckily did not need a mechanice, so I can't help you there.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  3. #3

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    Thanks royster, It is going to be 40 degrees tomorrow and if I can find new valve seals for my 2.0 I am going to try and change them using the rope in the cylinder or the air pressure in the cylinder, I need my little truck to drive to and from my friends house, I am restoring a 1972 Chevy C-10.

  4. #4

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    I hope all goes well. I assume you've checked the PCV lines? It's sort of baffling that a new timing belt would prompt smoking, but these trucks can be fickle. This is a whole FORUM of fickle.

    But they are wonderful when they're happy. Hope yours' gets happy soon, Panrider.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  5. #5



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    how's the PCV valve? clean? clogged?

  6. #6

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    Hey royster, Is fickle the same thing as PAIN IN THE YOU NO WHAT? You know this a great sight to talk to people that has or will be going through the same things as we have and maybe we can help others. This has really bum fussell me as to why this just started after put the new timing kit in. I have thought about it alot and maybe the oil pump was not in time when someone else put a belt on it before, and when I done it I put it in time like it was should be and it gave it more oil pressure up to the value cover and the valve seals was bad before I done the timing belt kit. JUST a though, I don't know. Anyways thanks for the support and I will let you know if the seals I put in today fixes it. I hope NAPA can get them for me today!!

  7. #7

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    O I forgot to tell you that the PVC was working but I cleaned it anyways.

  8. #8

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    Remember to block the oil passages as soon as you get the valve cover off, and to secure the little lifters inside the rocker arms before removing the rocker arm assembly (they WILL fall out and try to go down those holes). http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26624

    Leave the two back bolts (nearest the firewall) on the assembly when you lift it off, and this will keep the springs on the rocker arm shaft from pushing the rocker arms off the shaft. Use care aligning the holes when you re-install as those springs do push them out of alignment.

    Watch that sneaky half-moon gasket part in the back of the head, too: with all this activity, they'll jump off and can easily be forgotten when you replace the valve cover.

    'Hope some of the forum experts have tips for you, too.

    It is likely best to assure your timing, then remove the timing belts: you have to rotate the engine and with tension on the belt, it probably would cause trouble.

    Be sure to thoroughly inspect everything when you get the valve cover off...make sure you don't have a valve guide that has dropped down (like I did)
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Note the brown plastic seal on the left [normal position] and the one on the right [popped up]

    ...and note the position of the existing valve seals...make sure they're in place and not popped up, but also take note of how the new ones should look when installed. Be careful removing the old valve seals so you don't scratch their seats, and watch for little plastic boogars left behind from them...they can glog the oil system.

    The ENCOURAGING part is that, with only 90,000 miles, when you get this back together, you'll have a lot of good miles ahead of you. And you'll know this engine a whole lot better.

    This is indeed a good forum, but there aren't too many threads dedicated to the procedures, like this one, and the details we encounter...just people sharing their acheivements. That's good, too, but as you can see by my own "Roy's Garage" thread, there are some stumpers that come along and (as you say) bum~fussel the mechanic.

    I'll be checking in on the forum all day to be supportive, panrider. If you get into trouble, I'll try to help as best I can. Between your service manual and this forum, you'll do fine...plus we have three days of (comparitively) nice weather.
    Last edited by royster; 01-31-2014 at 07:10 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  9. #9

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    Hey royster, I got everything apart and all was fine until I put pressure on the number one cylinder and then the center of the jet valve on the back cylinder shot out. Well I took the rest of it out and it looked like the end was burnt off of it and the strange thing is this is the only cylinder that the spark plug looked like it was burning clean. I went ahead and took the other 3 jet valves out and they looked fine. Since it is the weekend what do you think about me tig welding all of the jet valves up on each end and replacing the O ring and putting them back in the head or should I order the elimnator and put them in? I hope that the end off of that one jet valve is not laying down in that cylinder, I took my pin magnet and ran it down that cylinder and found nothing. Hopefully you and maybe someone else that has been through this will chime in. Should I pull the head? I do have one of those small camera that I can look down in that cylinder with but my friend borrowed it and I can't get back until Monday. Somebody give me some suggestion on what to do!!! Thanks

  10. #10

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    Wow, what a discovery, ay?

    This is one for the experts, as my experience with the 2.0 is pretty limited. However, my racing friend spoke about how they used to weld those jet ports shut. That, of course, would involve removing the head and sending it out to have that done. Most everyone I have heard talk about these jet valves find them worthless. My vote would be to take the head off and see what you've got going on. Wait and see what the forum pros have to say. And look around your area to see if there is someone who CAN weld them shut.

    But it seems to answer your question about smoking, doesn't it?

    I can offer replacement jet valves should you decide to keep them intact...I have a 2.0 head I won't be using and could take them off. Eliminating them seems the best way to go, though...for the reasons you just discovered.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  11. #11

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    I got all 4 of the jet valves out of the head now and I was going to just tig weld the ends of the jet valve itself. I really hate to pull the head in this cold weather, If I can make it to summer I think I will pull the motor and tranny because I need to really clean up under the hood real good. I have read over just about all of your post and they are very informative.

  12. #12

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    I'm happy to hear my posts are of use for you. Thanks for the feedback.

    It's your call on the welding: that's out of my league, but if you have the means and know-how to do it, please be sure to take pictures and post your procedure!

    I truly DO wish you the best in this, panrider.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1949panrider View Post
    I got all 4 of the jet valves out of the head now and I was going to just tig weld the ends of the jet valve itself. I really hate to pull the head in this cold weather, If I can make it to summer I think I will pull the motor and tranny because I need to really clean up under the hood real good. I have read over just about all of your post and they are very informative.
    Welding them up should work just fine. Just remember to remove the adjusters out of the rocker arm, haha.

    -Robert

  14. #14

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    Well I am going to tig weld them up today and see how they come out, Thanks for the info, I was going to cut the adjusters ears off but no one can see them after the valve cover is put back on so I am going to do what you said and just unscrew the adjusters. Thanks Again!!!

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    It might be hoping for too much, but I hope this all means you'll be driving that truck by Sunday!

    I hope that the end off of that one jet valve is not laying down in that cylinder, I took my pin magnet and ran it down that cylinder and found nothing.
    An ounce of prevention, perhaps you could get that cylinder TDC and try to get a vacuum cleaner attachment to fit up to the spark plug hole (or even better, in it) and suck out any Jimmy Hoffa leftovers in there. I supposed blowing it out with compressed ait would work, too. So...suck or blow, your choice!

    I got all 4 of the jet valves out of the head now
    I'm curious how you did that, but my guess is you pulled them through the cylinder with some needle-nose pliers. Do tell us your secrets!

    I don't mean to be telling you things you already know: just pointing out in case it got over-looked. You're 2 years older than me and have just that much more experience, so please know I speak with utmost respect.

    I suspect you'll want to weld those ports from the cyclinder-side eventually, to prevent weld-boogars from getting hot and causing dieseling.
    Last edited by royster; 02-01-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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    They make an elimination kit for them things. $40.00 or so. Rockauto.com. We even have a thread for a discount code. I think it's in the general discussion area as a sticky.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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    Quote Originally Posted by royster View Post
    I'm curious how you did that, but my guess is you pulled them through the cylinder with some needle-nose pliers. Do tell us your secrets!


    I suspect you'll want to weld those ports from the cyclinder-side eventually, to prevent weld-boogars from getting hot and causing dieseling.
    The whole jet valve assembly unscrews out from the top of the cylinder head, they're just like long bolts (which is what the elimination kit is).

    I forgot what a 4g64 head has, but on the g54b heads the jet valve port has a shroud in the combustion chamber that is normally left in there.

    -Robert

  18. #18

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    The 4g64 has literally a "belly button" scar where the jet port would be. Just an indentation.

    I was looking at my spare 2.0 head this morning and noticed the bolts for the jet ports. What a pain in th' patooker.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  19. #19

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    Allrighty Now, First off I would like to thank eveyone for sharing their knowledge with me and it really help. This is what I done. I unscrewed all four of the jet valve out of the head and tig welded both ends and the small inlet holes in the middle, sanded the welds down smooth and put new O rings on. I installed the jet valve back into the heads so I could put air pressure on one cylinder at a time and installed new exhaust and intake valve seals. I am about 99.9% sure this has fix my smoking like a BIG DUBBIE in a smoke shop!!! It got dark on me and I did not have alot of time to see if all the smoke cleared up. I am going to drive it some tomorrow and I will know if all this work fix it or not!!! Thank's again to EVERYONE, If I can help anyone just ask.

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    Awesome, and WAY TO GO, panrider! What a resourceful guy!!

    Hope it all turns out great.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  21. #21

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    Can you give us an update, Panrider?
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  22. #22

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    Hey royster, I got a little side lined yesterday with a fever and going to the jhon alot. Feel a little better this morning. I am fixing to drive it today so I will post how it does this evening. I got a felling it is going to be fine as soon as all the extra oil burns of of the piston and there my be some laying in the exhaust. Thanks for asking and I will post this evening, have a good day!!!

  23. #23

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    I'll bet there's a ton of oil in the exhaust system. I'm eager to know how this worked out.

    These temperature shifts are hell on the human system. Nothing fun about the Hershey Squirts! (ALSO a "ton of oil in the exhaust system"!!)
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  24. #24

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    Hey royster, I drove my truck around 100 miles today and the smoke did clear up. I think I am going to cut the catalytic converter tomorrow because I put a weber carb on it this past summer. We don't have to have the emissions test here in N.C. but I would bet that the truck is burning cleaner with the weber carb intsead of the factory one. I love driving my truck so I hope I cured its ailment. Take care and stay in touch!!! panrider

  25. #25

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    Awesome, Panrider, how encouraging to hear a tragedy turn into success almost overnight! And since you replaced the valve seals, you're good to go for a long time comin' I suppose. New timing belt, seals...heck, you got it made!
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

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