Thanks for the comments! I guess we'll see how it goes. Of course I (like any other builder) think it is epic, but everyone has their own opinions.

So with the head mock-up complete, I started on the block mods. This is going to be a little tricky, but I'm sure I can find a solution. I wan to try and run a 6 rib style belt like the Evo so I can use a SFI certified harmonic balancer. The problem so far is the water pump. The Evo uses a reversed rotation pump with a smooth pulley turned by the back side of the belt. It doesn't match the position of the 4G64 pump and the 4G64 pump spins opposite the Evo. The snouts are also different lengths. Worse comes to worse, I can just machine a pulley.

In the mean time, the Monty 4G64 setup is actually 3 separate belts. I also don't require power steering. AC is one of those things you either have to have, or don't care about. I want my AC living in the desert. It only takes power while in operation, so I wont be racing with it on obviously. The Monty tension system will not work with my intended setup, so here are the quick and easy mods to the brackets.

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After a little cleanup, they were coated to match the block and tossed in the oven to cure.

Now on to the balance shafts. Same story - I don't want them. Most DD's I suggest keeping the balance shafts installed and using a strong Kevlar belt for the right side shaft. This is a race/promotional/shop truck and I can rebuild or replace easily so I can afford to run without balance shafts. There is no need to spend $50-$80 for a balance shaft delete kit if you know how to do it yourself. I don't have all the pics because it literally takes 2 minutes to do.

First - cut the oil pump driven shaft off just after the location of the seal.
Second - weld the hole shut
Third - smooth

You get a nice OEM stub shaft as a result.
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On the other side, you can spend 4 bucks on a seal or a dollar on a freeze plug that fits the bore to seal it off. The engine rebuilt kit includes new balance shaft bearings so I will swap them out to plug off the right side shaft oil ports. If you have the means, and really want to save money, you can pop the shaft bearings out and rotate them. As long as you don't damage them, you can toss them back in. All they will do is plug a hole.

After all that was done, I did a quick mock-up assembly to see how I like it all.

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I only found one issue I want to remedy. The heater tubes I modified earlier fit just fine, but I don't like the way they look. They just don't match up looking like they were meant to be there. Here is what I mean:

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The right side tube sticks out about an inch past the Hyundai head tube. The left side tube just sticks way out even after being shortened. They just don't look right. I shortened them more and sent them off to coating along with the lower inlet tube to get coated. I'll have follow up pics later this weekend most likely.

So there is one huge piece of this build currently missing.... I don't have the truck yet. I've been striking out on finding a clean Mighty Max that meets my wants. They are either too expensive (more like over inflated), too messed up, not the right engine, or require so much work to straighten it out that no matter how much polish goes on, it still looks like shit. So the search continues for a Mighty Max...

This engine will not be swapped until the chassis or other mods are complete. As soon as all the mock-up is complete, I will finish the build (cams, pistons, rods, etc.). There is one more mod I can tackle real quick while I have a spare minute - A short shifter. I can't find one, I don't want to pay for one if I did find one, so I'll take a few "anti-lazy hours" and build one.

Its very simple to do...

Cut the shift rod off and add 1 inch to it
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Weld it back together
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Then cut a 1 inch spacer
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Reassemble
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A little trimming needs to be done at the base for range selection movement, but that's how you make a short shifter.

I'll get more done this weekend and have a few more pics to share.

Questions and comments are welcome!