Okay now you make me want to put the mitsu motor back in my truck! obd2, easy tuning, 16v, dis, and more reliable electronics.
Okay now you make me want to put the mitsu motor back in my truck! obd2, easy tuning, 16v, dis, and more reliable electronics.
i have complete fsm for the trucks if you need any pinouts or info
I have 2 issues I'm trying to solve. I have all the pinouts, but I don't have all the functions to cross over connectors correctly. One example is the DSM main relay has 10 pins while the MM has 8. The MAF plugs are also different. Knowing the function is what will allow this to work. I also have to chase a couple wires down in the MM to verify them.Originally Posted by BradMph
I found that one that runs to a reed switch but didn't know it went to the cluster. For the latter model ECU's (3g/Evo), you will probably want to just retro it anyway to the correct VSS. This is the retro sensor that will fit the MM trans (and any other for that matter).
These can be found on Montero Sport transmissions. The only issue is losing your mechanical speedometer, but if you are switching to OBD2, you can get virtually anything to read and display vehicle speed, or use an aftermarket speedometer. I'm going to add a digital dash to my truck which will display speed and any other readable sensor.
I'm pretty much doing this for everyone to use if they need it. You can literally stick this on to almost any engine and configuration throughout the Mitsu platforms (and maybe others). A lot of people use Megasquirt to run and tune their builds, but there is something so much better available as a near plug and play with the same (or more - depending on ECU) tuning ability. It's pretty close to a "no brainer" in my opinion.
The fact that you can take a dummed down 4g64 8V and bring it to life just by adding and changing a few pins is epic. Then adding the ability to tune easily with other ECU's..... even better. I'm obviously switching up to the 16V Evo platform, but that doesnt mean it can't be used on any other.
If you have the actual FSM for this truck, I could sure use some info out of it.
For the DSM functions concerning the 10 pin on the MPI relay, here is an article that talks about this. If you haven't found it already.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-...nction.435961/
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I'm still doing some resourcing on the 8 pin functions for the MM.
Your trying to mix the functions between the above MM unit image above, with the this one shown below, correct?
87b38plugwNumbers.jpg
Pin Name
1 None
2 +12V Switched (Ignition, Coil +)
3 +12V Constant
4 Ground
5 Oil Pressure Signal
6 Diagnostics
7 Starter Signal
8 Temp Gauge
9 Boost Gauge
10 Vehicle Speed Sensor
Last edited by BradMph; 02-06-2015 at 12:20 PM.
The starion with digital dash had a vss that bolted to the transmission and allowed to hook up the speedometer
I will check to see what other car have the same setup
Don't know if this helps but I have a socketed 6 bolt/early FI ECU plus a couple of chips with simple mods I can loan you if you need something re-writable to experiment with.
I mainly need one completely stock. I put the word out to a couple local tuners here to see if they have one I can borrow when I'm ready. If I can't come up with one, I'll definitely let you know.
Yes i do have the actual FSM it just says chrysler and ram 50 on the front page, but we all know its the same. My grandpa bought the 1990 FSM for the truck years ago and i inhereted it with the truck, so whatever info you want i can post up pics of the pages no problem.
P.S. I do have both parts of the FSM Volume 1 engine chassis & body and volume 2 electrical
The '90 is the odd ball.... it might not have what I need in it, but I'll let you know if there is something I need to view. Thank you!
Right now it is tax season and beginning of race season. I am totally swamped. I also have all the parts ordered for the rebuild of my new engine, so I might not even get to installing a DSM ECU, but I'll try. I really would love to provide all the info and confirmation of it for those who want better options.
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Fun stuff in the works.... finally getting to the engine on this build. More coming soon!
Now we're getting somewhere.....
Its been over a year since I started this engine build and now I finally have it coming together. Long story short, I just moved into a new home, decided to build my own furniture, and now everyone wants me to build theirs. My very good friend struck a deal with me to kick my build back in gear. He agreed to grab my engine parts for my build if I draft and build his furniture for his new house. I( agreed.
All of this is awesome for the build, but I still need to find the time to do it between all my other clients and what not. Here is what I have managed to get done in a few hours of free time.
The build starts with a full set of gaskets and seals for the rebuild (obviously), fresh new sets of ARP main and head studs, new ACL Race bearings, Manley rods, and a new intake manifold with TB.
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The intake manifold was a gamble. I could either spend $600 in parts to assemble a custom manifold, machine all my own parts on my CNC (would take months at this rate), or grab a POS manifold from China and build to suit my flow requirements and calculated needs for this build. I chose the latter.
I typically set my expectations very low with Chinese parts. This order was no different regarding my expectations except for the fact that my expectations were shattered... The parts was far worse than I actually expected, which was very little. This is going to take a lot of work to correct.
Straight out of the box - this is what it looked like.....
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The flange holes had to be drilled out just to mount it, the polish was beyond half ass (not even 1/8 assed in my opinion), the machine work on the port holes looks like someone just tapped it with a drill for a counter-sink, there are casting marks and tags everywhere, the ports don't actually line up with the head (they're 1/8" off/low), the throttle cable stand-offs aren't even level, there is no hole drilled for the MAP sensor, the welds for the MAP sensor flange were blown through making it impossible to mount the sensor, the TB flange is not lined up with the inlet, virtually nothing is cleanly machined, and the welds look extremely "cold" (meaning almost no penetration). This is just what I noticed right out of the box.... It gets worse
I truly have NO CLUE why someone would buy such junk and stick it on their engine. Chasing a good price tag of $160 for a higher flowing intake manifold is understandable, but this thing would cause more problems than it is worth. Just to correct the welding and machining would probably cost over $400 - and you STILL wouldn't net a great performing manifold. Please do yourselves a favor and save of for quality parts.
You may ask "why" I would buy something like this knowing that it is straight garbage.... The reason is because I only need one part off of it and I can machine and fix everything at no cost to me (except time). It took little time for me to get this nasty bastard a first class ticket straight to my band saw. The whole upper plenum is going in the recycling...
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Since my build requires a lot more volume and flow, I will construct a new plenum using 6061 USA made aluminum. Here is the velocity stack plate machined to fit the existing runners.
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This took a ton of work to weld. I really don't know what the hell this manifold is made out of, but I have welded lots and lots of cast aluminum in my time, but this is something else... There is so much junk that floats up to the surface of the weld, and it doesn't actually puddle up at all. It just melts. The cast runners are thicker than the plate I am welding to, but they start melting away before I even get a puddle on the plate. I ended up having to pre-heat the plate just so I could get the timing right on the weld lol. When I mentioned earlier that "It gets worse" - I meant it. Aside from the cast metal grade/purity being unknown, the casting was done so crappy that it is riddled with air pockets. You never know where they are until it blows out and ruins your weld. It took about 6 hours to weld and machine this plate. Good aluminum would take no more than 3 to do the same with.
The end result is good though....
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After the runners were fixed to the head, it was time to cut the plenum. This is nothing more than extruded round 6061. Cut it, slice it, weld it....
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Now on to the TB plate. Nothing more than a 3" elbow mated to the plenum end cap and the TB flange itself. I did give it a little "kick" down and to the side just for fun (to see if I liked the look), but I will end up going back and redoing this portion.
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So far - so good. Just a few little tweaks to the volume and design need to be done still. It's all starting to come together nicely. I'll have more as it happens!!
I just sat down and read this whole thread. WOW! The level of skill and fabrication is amazing! I really want to make an Evo Mighty Max now. Except I have no skill or money lol. I can dream and hopefully I can build a truck this well in the future. Just want to say again amazing work keep it up.
Thank you. I hope one of these days someone will build one of these for themselves... DSM's are popular, but the Evo's are better lol.
Merrill is a machine that builds machines and is not happy unless he is machining.
Nice welds on that intake Merrill, Looking nice!
Thanks for the awesome comments! It's kinda neat to run back on my own thread and read what I have done myself and then read the responses of others. It reminds me to keep getting back on this build when I get extremely swamped with my other clients.
Not a ton to update on right now. I've been building a lot of furniture recently and am also waiting on another shipment of parts to show up for my engine. Still need rods, timing belt, alternator and PS pump to name a few. Theres a handful of other odds and ends I need as well. I'm just trying to be as patient as possible with it since I am getting closer to install.
Here is what I have done in my spare time (for the hell of it mostly)....
Starting off with my interior. I did make the executive decision to leave the carpet out and paint match my floor later with some cool tricks. I did something very similar to my race car years ago and loved the look/feel of it.
It was basically truck bed liner placed in a strategic location to act like a floor mat.
Thats what I plan to do again but this time I added a nice little piece I've been working on developing for a while now. Its a clutch ramp with a heel stay which makes foot work almost second nature when driving. Its a phenomenal little addition.
After that I decided to play around a little bit. I love how my rear sway bar really strengthens up the ass of the truck but am not fond of how sloppy the front end is. For the purpose of experimentation, I built a body brace.
The results are simple: For what it does do - it does a great job. It is not a strut bar (looks like one though), and without knowing what it does, the end user would probably notice very little. However, it does tighten things up pretty well, and looks cool as shit when you pop the hood. I was able to confirm fit with every engine/chassis combo for the 2nd Gen as well.
Speaking of rear sway bars.... Here is a new addition for all the rear sway bar freaks out there! If you read the beginning posts here, you will notice I originally purchased a Montero Sport rear sway bar for my truck. Once I did the 8.8 swap, I found out the MS bar simply would not work for my build (which is a bummer). Another member here, and local to me, was interested in fitting up the MS bar to his truck, so I cut him a deal on it for the purpose of R&D.
Thanks to the both of us, a Bolt-On kit now exists for the Montero Sport rear sway bar to fit the MM.
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Why is this bar better? The popular Ford rear sway bar is a great fit for the all around action, but it is the exact same size as the factory front MM bar at 7/8". The Ford bar is also narrow fit which means it mounts to the inner frame rails. The Montero Sport bar is a bigger 1" bar and it is wide fit which means it mounts to the outer frame rails. What does this translate to? Even MORE stability and control of the chassis when getting serious about cornering and control.
I really want to rip my Ford bar off and install the MS bar but it wont fit right on my Ford 8.8. Chances are I will build a custom sway bar later for my chassis when I build it, so the Ford bar will still do a great job in the mean time.
Thats all I have for now. Very soon both of the Ford and Montero Sport mount kits will be available and I will make that announcement. We just have a few things left to wrap up with R&D.
I never thought about a brace across the engine bay, but I can understand how that would improve the stiffness in the front end. Most people don't realize that the inner fenders and core support being welded together are part of the structure of the truck, not just a place to hang parts. You now have me thinking about how to make one for Geronimo, as I get a lot of flex in the cab by the cab mount on the driver's side under the fuse box under hard cornering.I also like the idea of the 1" rear bar kit - that won't overpower the smaller front bar and cause oversteer?
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
This brace basically does the same thing as a set of solid or Poly cab bushings. It stabilizes the body of the truck during hard cornering by keeping it as square as possible. I was considering a set of fender bars as well but the math is proving to do very little for basic loads. I may do it anyway for the hell of it.
This bar wont fit once the new engine goes in, so it will be sold once I swap. Anyone who wants to stake a claim on it is welcome to.
I don't have any seat time in a truck with the MS bar yet. The ability to over steer just by flicking the wheel has been reported as an increase, but thats open to interpretation. Some may claim a sneeze would make you drift while others would say it does absolutely nothing in their opinions. My truck does the same with the Ford bar in my opinion lol. Once I have a more in depth review after R&D is done, I will post up the info. So far everything is great with it.
Even my old 70s dodge pickup with bolt in inner fenders uses them for structure. The guys that take them out for giant tires report a TON more chassis flex without them unless the frame is boxed. They also have problems with cracks in the cab due to flexing since dodge designed it as a structural part of the truck. Just cause something is body on frame, doesnt mean that the body is just a thing sitting on there. I would love to see an X brace in the engine bay like a mustang or the current viper.
You're pretty full of yourself but you are a damn good at what you do, man. Like Kanye.
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Had a little more fun today with the chassis mods.
Another update on the rear sway bar.
I had the opportunity today after the R&D follow up appointment to take the truck for a run and really get a feel.
General - Compared to the Ford bar, the Montero Sport bar is actually SMOOTHER than the Ford bar. However, it is a lot more stable and offers up a much more positive feel in the corners. You pretty much don't even know it exists unless you are in a corner or going over an awkward bump. The Montero Sport bar is truly a great addition to the MM which offers a lot more comfort compared to the Ford bar.
Oversteer - I did not encounter an oversteer issue during my drive. The important thing to remember here is there are dozens of factors contributing to over or under steer - not just one (like adding a sway bar). The MS bar is added to a near stock truck with a suspension drop. My truck is highly modified and tuned to handle and feel the way it does. There are too many variables in suspension setups and designs to offer a better opinion on the oversteer concerns other than my experience under the conditions of the truck it is installed to. It did, however, keep the ass end of the truck in check and firmly planted during the corners.
That's all I can offer now on my experience. I'm sure the owner will pop on and drop his review of it as well.
Both kits have been given the green light for production and I will have some pricing and availability numbers soon.
Questions? Post up!
How hard is it to mount the front x member bar - that looks like it will solve a lot of flex issues with the front end. Still thinking about the ms sway bar setup - I have a turn six rear sway bar kit I bought years ago for Geronimo, but it bolted to the frame for the center bushings, then the bars went to the back and the end links bolted to brackets on the rear of the leafs behind the axle. I never liked how it worked so I took it off, but still have it - your kit was the way I wanted to remount it. its only a 3/4inch bar I think.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
The opposing angle of the lower control arm bolts do create a mechanical lock on the bar, but all you have to do is back them out a but to install. It's very simple to install and remove.
I'm liking it thus far. Combined with the upper body brace, this front end is more rigid and solid with a more positive feel. It would be better complimented with a thicker sway bar, but that will be coming soon.
I have a monster addco bar - forged steel and 1 1/4 inch - its so massive the wheels rub on it before you hit lock , even with wheels with less than 4 1/2 inch back spacing - its sitting for now.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
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