sweet truck, and those are the same brand spindles I scored on CL
sweet truck, and those are the same brand spindles I scored on CL
Just curious to what would be a better build for my mm? 4g63 or 4g64. Would like a high review motor and turbo.
I'm guessing you got an auto correct and it ambushed your post - you mean a high revving motor? Might be a better question on another thread - more than likely there is already an existing one here. Me personally? The 4G63 6 bolt twin cam turbo engine. More support in regards to info and aftermarket parts. I read somewhere the 6 bolt bottom ends are beefier and these engines can make big numbers when tuned.Originally Posted by Hiteshotrodshop
That all depends on how you build it. Technically, neither is really better than the other. I used a 4G64 block with Evo components, while others will use a full DSM 4g63. Some build 4G64 6 bolt blocks with DOHC heads.... It's really up to you and your abilities. I've built and seen dozensof hybrid combinations hit record breaking numbers in dozens of variants. It's all up to how you build it.
The biggest hurdle you will have to conquer is the transmission. You have to find the right trans for the block you use, and there are a few other little snags here and there depending on the hybrid/variant build you chose. In my case, I had to make a half a dozen adjustments to the front accessories of my block to mate up all the Evo accessories to the block. I also had to modify and change brackets and coolant tubes just to make it RWD compatible.
Here are a couple quick pics I snapped before heading back down to San Diego this week (I travel back and forth all the time).
Interior - extremely dirty and blue... Gotta color change it eventually.
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And the current 8 Valve lifter ticking engine that could
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I was excited to get back and pick up my rotors that made it in. I was a little bummed that I was out of town when they showed up. Either way - here they are next to the Tacoma rotors
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This is the part that totally sucks!
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I figured the thickness difference may be able to be squeezed, but no, not on these rotors. They don't squeeze between the caliper brackets. I'll just get rid of these and grab some 4 pot VR-4 calipers when I get a chance. That will solve it and upgrade me even more.
The 276mm Brake upgrade (small rotor) will work just fine since the Montero Sport rotors are the same thickness as the 276mm Diamante rotor. This "big rotor" was a gamble but it absolutely can be modded further to fit the 2 pots as a bolt-on. You will need to shave the rotor about 3mm (1/8th inch) and the caliper brackets can be done the same. Just remember to take off equal amounts from each side.
Example: 1/8" needs to come off the rotor. Remove 1/16" (1.5mm) from the front and the back. Total removed = 1/8" or 3mm and the balance remains the same.
You can also try to find a different 314mm rotor with the correct offset.
well i need a computer and a head for mine
It could be a couple months before I get mine swapped. There are a bunch at the yards though. I'm sure I can make a call or send one of my guys down to grab one.
I couldn't help but notice the flowers on the seat covers. Don't tell me...your wife picked them out or it came with them?
Those brakes look real nice that your doing. As well, the valve cover is looking good too. Will the wrinkle paint hold up to petroleum products possibly getting on it and not softening the paint? I know the epoxy should be fine, atleast with my experience of using a 50/50 epoxy paint on RC Nitro boats.
I want to paint my valve covers on my MR2 and the wrinkle paint looks pretty decent.
Thank you. Wrinkle paint is rated to 350*F and resistant to the usual paint killers like oil, grease, and de-greasers. I have seen them fail, but I am about 99% sure the reason was incorrect application of it to the piece coated. I have never had a failure with wrinkle coatings personally and I have definitely abused many of them.I couldn't help but notice the flowers on the seat covers. Don't tell me...your wife picked them out or it came with them?
Those brakes look real nice that your doing. As well, the valve cover is looking good too. Will the wrinkle paint hold up to petroleum products possibly getting on it and not softening the paint? I know the epoxy should be fine, atleast with my experience of using a 50/50 epoxy paint on RC Nitro boats.
I want to paint my valve covers on my MR2 and the wrinkle paint looks pretty decent.
The key is following the "principal instructions" like cleaning, coating according to instructions, baking the coating one, etc. They are rather flexible though. I sand blasted this, cleaned it, heated it, primed it, cleaned & scuffed the primer, heated everything up before coating, laid 4 very heavily misted coats (about 3 misted passes per coat) 5 minutes apart, let it sit for about 10 minutes, then baked it for 12 minutes at 325* on our coating oven (you can use a household oven too). This process was modified from the VHT instructions, but the principal instructions and prep are the same.
I use epoxy paints on chassis components because it resists impact and corrosion extremely well. Nothing bugs me worse than seeing a ton of paint work with chips and scratches in it after only being driven for a week. It's a lot of work to put into something that doesn't last. Industrial equipment enamel works great for chassis parts, but it takes about a week to fully cure, and the prep work is more involved. Epoxy coatings are just quick and easy. I've never really used them on anything but chassis and suspension bits.
Those pretty seats are no longer in the truck
The last owner could tolerate them more than I can. The way they mounted the buckets pushed them forward about 3-4 inches. I am 6'2" and hugging the steering wheel isn't my style. I was lucky on this one because the owner still had the bench seat. There is no way in hell I could drive that thing back to San Diego with my knees on the dash, so I tossed the flowers and put the bench back in.
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I also cleaned up the interior a little bit. It is really messy and a bunch of stuff is ghetto fixed/modded/rigged. I really hate seing half-assed work. There is absolutely NO REASON at all to not take an extra 30 seconds to run a wire under the sill panel instead of stretching it across the floor.
Most of the beginning stages of this build will be "clean-up work" - or better yet - fixing shit right that should have been done right the first time. I spent about an hour crawling everything over making my fix it list. Some things I can skip since we will be doing a bunch of swapping and re-arranging, but one thing I can't skip on is the steering. This steering is shot! When I bought the truck, I noticed the outer tie rods were trashed. I figured that the reason for all the play in the steering (though excessive doesn't really describe it - it's more like ridiculous). Turns out the pitman arm is trashed, idler arm bushing is trashed, and the outer tie rods are trashed.
The inners and the idler itself all check out fine -BUT, lets really look at this.... why only do half of the work? It's senseless. So, I ordered everything for the steering. New Pitman arm, new idler arm assembly, new inner and outer tie rods. They should be in sometime this week. What I did do for the safety of things is buy a bushing kit for the idler arm locally before I drive back to San Diego. That tightened it up a little bit under braking and cornering.
so uh what are you doing with the stock engine?
Getting rid of it once I finish building the new one.
Speaking of engine..... I was able to get the valve cover done today. We modify valve covers for high performance engines all the time, but if you ever wanted to know how it is done - here is a quick picture how to.
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Simply measure, mark, cut/drill, and glue (epoxy). You need a very strong, high strength, high heat, 2 part epoxy to make aluminum stick for ever. We use an industrial formula bought in bulk, but there are probably some over the counter brands that will do the job.
It's very easy to mod, only takes about 10 minutes. After the epoxy cured, I wrinkle coated it and stuffed it in the curing oven for a heavy wrinkle. I did end up with a couple blemishes, but they are very easy fixes.
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I have to run back to Vegas again tomorrow to take care of a couple clients, but I will be back Monday and will get a couple shots of this on the engine. I'm anxious to see how well it blends with the gold.
if you could get me a cali ecu that would be awesome cause idk if the federal i had in the truck was causing any issues with the truck being a cali model but ill take care of the head locally since shipping would kill any benifits of it and idk if im going to keep it 8v or go dohc 16v
Just slap a G64 head on and call it a day. It's a bolt-on for the most part.
On another note, I serviced a set of lifters, gave it a full tune-up, drove it around for a bit, smogged and tagged it, and now I'm good to go. Not bad for a days worth of work and the truck runs better than ever. I'm kinda liking this little 8 valve.
I mean G63 head.
yeah thats the debate but i kinda wanna see what i can get out of the 8v head i mean i know ill get more out of the dohc but so does everybody
Anyone ever turbocharge the 8v just cause you have it, any weak links, I know if you limit boost it will live but any other things to note?
In my opinion, if you are going to build something, build it. Basically pick a build and stick with it. If you plan to do a DOHC swap, make that your build instead of building 2 different engines. Of course if you have the money to blow on whatever, go for it, but it sure takes a lot longer to accomplish Build A when you are doing B, C, D and so forth.
The 8 valve has been boosted many times. It can squeeze out some ponies, all dependant on your set-up, but there is no denying a dual cam will squeeze a bit more on the same setup. One example would be my last racecar. I built a '93 Dodge Colt 4G15. Nobody builds that engine seriously lol. But i was able to squeeze out 396 HP with a supercharger, turbo, alcohol and N2O. Any bigger swap would have put my little 1.5 to shame with the same mods. You can turbo virtually any engine out there. Just about every engine can handle 6-10 PSI on stock guts. Many NA Mitsu's can be pushed up to 15 PSI reliably, but it's all dependant on your setup, tuning, use, etc.
I agree the 8 valves have been boosted since the early 80's by mitsubishi and others
Hey Merril, I was thinking about the master cylinders and had a question. I was wanting to jump up to the 1" or 1 1/16" master cylinder from the 3000gt or Montero, but I see an issue with the brake lines that come out of the front port on the master cylinder. On a mighty max the lines come out of the side of the m/c and have a distribution block. Well by looking at the Montero/3000gt m/c the front line comes out on the top of the m/c in front of the reservoir. how were you going to run the front brake lines with one of those m/c's?
I can't imagine yours is much different than mine, but the front port goes immediately into a distribution block which mounts via a banjo bolt to the top of the MC. The ports are in the exact same spot, just different attachments.
If anything, just re-route your lines to mate up. It's very easy.
Out of curiosity, why do you want a bigger MC? Without bigger brake components, all you really gain is a very touchy pedal.
Remember I am doing the 3000gt 4pot + huge rotor swap, It is pretty much done on the pass side, just need to make a bracket for the drivers side.
Oh.... gotcha. Well, it should be exactly the same. Just swap it over. If it is different, just reroute the lines accordingly. Very easy stuff.
I'm not planning on swapping to rear disc for a little while(6mo-year) do you think the 1 1/16 would still be fine.
Should be ok. You may end up locking the rear brakes easily, but it should be fine.
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