Here are the captions for the photos. The photos are numbered as you would read them on a page-

Photo #1-
Carter P4070 electric fuel pump. Low amperage draw according to the tech rep I spoke to on the phone from Carter. Mounting location is at the bed mount closet to the fuel fill. I fabricated a mounting plate for the pump with sheet steel available from Ace or Town and Country Hardware. NO WELDING NEEDED. The mounting plate is bolted into place with 3 bolts. The bolts go through the bed mount gussets...and then through the mounting plate. The holes are already drilled through the gussets by the truck. One hole requires a bigger washer than the other two...just make sure the diameter is measurably than the biggest hole in the gusset. The is tight quarters. Without an automotive lift, you are doing a lot of work "in the blind". But it's doable with only one jack stand. I can prove it. A lift sure would help though...sure would. The photo is looking forward from the LR wheel well. You can see the factory filter "behind" the pump even though that places the filter ahead of the pump as you are sitting in the driver seat. I'll clip it into place the next time it is on a lift when I am getting work done. But it ain't going anywhere. The way it's plumbed is fuel tank then factory filter then P4070 then fuel line to the engine. Existing factory supply and return lines are used. You are essentially "splicing" the P4070 into the existing lines while using the factory fuel filter. Not hard, but tedious w/o the benefit of a lift. Make sure the fuel is filtered before it enters the pump. That is the primary reason why I chose to do it this way.

Photo #2- This photo viewpoint is laying on the floor looking straight up. The two topmost bolts are 3" long and the bottom one is 4" cut down to approx 3.5". A 4" bolt cannot be snaked through- it is to long. A 3" bolt can be snaked through but it will be too short. Trust me on this...get a 4" boly and cut it down to 3.5". This lower bolt also functions as the mounting for the ground wire for the pump. Use nylon lock nuts so they will not loosen over times. (refer back to photo #1)

Photos #3 and #4- #3 is the heavy duty tie straps I used to fasten the power wire to the frame. #4 is 12 gauge wire inside plastic shielding- available at most any automotive parts store national chain. Mine came from CarQuest. The tie straps were found in the utility room of the house I bought in 2005. The photo is of the label on them. These "Superman Kryptonite" tie straps should be available at an electrical builder supply house. I use them all the time around the house. They are stout. Cable companies use them for example.

Photo #5- Holly 12-804 fuel pressure regulator mounted in place on the LF fender well under the hood. Pennyman is right you don't really need to have one but for info purposes:

Holly 12-803: 4 1/2-9psi
Holly 12-804: 1-4psi

The Mr. Gasket mini gauge reads 2.9 psi after the install of all this. This is why Jim Inglese recommends only the 12-804 for use with Webers. He is the Weber guru that builds intake setups for Cobras with Weber carbs. There is a link to his site in the Facet electric pump? thread where you can see example of his work and great general info for all kinds of Webers. Great info from a great guy. Heck here is the link-

http://www.jiminglese.com/ Check it out...Great reading.

Photo #6- this photo shows how WeberDirect aka EuroPartsDirect gets away with selling junk as "genuine Weber" carbs. What they sold me was cheap counterfeit JUNK as opposed to a genuine Weber carb. The "real" Webers have the Weber logo and "product of Spain" cast right into the carb body. You may be able to pick that out in one of the photos. The WeberDirect JUNK is not tunable and is only about 300CFM whereas the genuine are at least 375CFM. Photo# 14,16,17 shows the two side by side. The get away with it simply because they affix a Weber sticker on the carb on a part of the carb that is made by Weber. I paid 299.95 for that piece of JUNK in 2007. THEY ARE NOT WEBERS BUT A CHEAP COUNTERFEIT. You can also see the Weber sticker on the choke assembly. I got taken back in 2007 by WeberDirect and that is why I will not refer them to the users here.

I'm hungry for breakfast. More captions in the upcoming days.