New owner, just failed GA emissions, high NOx main culprit

[BradMph]

Don't feel to bad, My MR2 got it's last smog test and failed so off to the mechanic to give him a $200 donation. The mechanic simply adjusted my timing and charged me $150 for this. Then the thief says, if it doesn't pass, bring it back and we'll drop the other $50 in and I'll give you a waiver for the test. In our state the smog recheck was free, but I had to take it to a authorized smog mechanic to have it worked on because of the laws here. So, I got dry-banged for $150, but it passed and I Never have to get the car tested again. Both my vehicles are exempt from test, but not exempt from some nosey cop that says lift your hood, it's your lucky day. Modifications to the engine can cost upward of $2000 if and officer writes up the ticket. The laws have changed here in Washington State as well. From this point on, all vehicles from 2009 and newer must be equipped with California regulation smog devices. It's all about the money pretty much because if it was all about clean air, we be cracking Mexico's ass for their vehicles that run no smog devices. Mexico City being one of the smoggiest cities in the world.

[leftfield6]

Well, a new TPS, a new O2 sensor, and she still failed the re-test. NOx still the culprit. It is now passing on the 15 mph test, but barely failing at the high speed test. 1258 is the allowable limit of NOx, and the tailpipe sniffer said 1305. Before the work I've put into it was 4279, so I've come a long way.

I've spent enough now to qualify for a waiver, but today I thought I'd mess with her a little more. I dug out my old school timing light, found the marks on the pulley and the front of the engine, and had a go at setting the timing.

Hmm, even with the distributor cranked all the way to clockwise, it still is timed at about 11 degrees BTDC. Physically cannot be adjusted any closer to TDC. I seem to remember reading that if someone replaced the timing belt and used the deck of the head as the mark instead of the cast mark it made setting the ignition timing difficult. Think that's what I have here? Previous owner had the timing belt done 5K miles ago, but it was a friend of the family, not a Mitsu shop.

[royster]

How obNOxious to work so hard and be so close, yet not get the prize.

Yes, the belt CAN be off one little tooth, but it seems to me you should be able to get in closer...do remember the stuff I learned about the ground wire to the ecu so that the timing is right. Let me find that post...

Okay here it is http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...spd-D-50/page6 and it was crucial information for me to understand, too. Once you do it, you'll always know, but before you do, it's frikkin' mystery.

You can also take the time to remove the timing cover and check. My thread ("garage") has photos of the timing mark on the head, and if you highlight it on yours', you should be able to see it when looking through the radiator...unless you have A/C, in which case I'm clueless.

EDIT: resolve posted here http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post27020

After connecting the jumper line, the timing checked out at past TDC! I adjusted it with the jumper in place, to just the left of the 5-dgree line. Removing the jumper, it registered 10 degrees before top dead center. Checked it again and it remained at 5 with the jumper on. So I know i got it.

I lowered the idle to about 800 RPM: it had been a bit high.

[leftfield6]

Actually I realized after my above post that I was calculating the 11 degrees on the wrong side of the "10" mark. In other words with, the distributor cranked over all the way clockwise, I'm at about 9 degrees BTDC. All of this is with the jumper wire in place. The jumper wire is an odd little step, I've never had another vehicle use such a thing, but I used it nonetheless. As soon as you ground that wire, the engine rpms change, so you know it's working.