Results 1 to 22 of 22

Thread: '90 2.4 oil pump replacement

Hybrid View

  1. #1

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64

    '90 2.4 oil pump replacement

    TASK INFORMATION BEGINS ON THIS POST

    It's hard to find straight-forward information by some of the thread titles...so I manually searched for oil pump replacement. Still haven't found anything.

    The theory is that when this thread is several posts along, the next person will be able to locate the information and use it.

    So it begins: I'm replacing the oil pump in my '90 D-50. It involves dropping the oil pan (I'm cool with that) and ordering a $177.00 pump through RockAuto...still cool with this. Pennyman suggested I read up on a few threads available here, but nothing really warns me about the road ahead. Any pointers will be appreciated by me and future Rammers.

    First I need the pump and gaskets for that area. An oil pan gasket set. From here, I need suggestions for whatever else needs to be ordered for the job.
    Last edited by royster; 01-19-2014 at 05:56 AM.

  2. #2

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    I'm not certain I'm getting any oil up to the rockerarms.

    There don't seem to be any threads on the forum that take this step-by-step.

    And i have no idea what to do next.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  3. #3



    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    03-16-2011
    Posts
    3,803
    Location

    Sacramento, CA
    Vehicle

    1979 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    Chevy V6
    Do you have hydraulic lash adjusters? Or is it manual adjusters?
    If it's like a 2.0 then it's in the front cover. But IDK on the 2.4.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
    Find me on FaceBook
    clicking HERE.

    Or look on YouTube Click Here.
    http://mobilemillwright.com

  4. #4

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Do you have hydraulic lash adjusters?
    Yes.

    Thanks, camoit. I have the 2.4 and the oil pressure DID come up. I was paniced for a while, though: I know what I SHOULD have seen, but that didn't happen until the engine ran a bit. I had horrible visions of running an engine with no oil flow.

    All is well, and I can post a thread about the experi...wait...this thread IS my experience.

    I owe a post, here.

    Gimme some time to relax and I'll report. Information is also available at the Roy's Garage thread.
    Last edited by royster; 01-19-2014 at 04:09 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  5. #5

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64

    Replacing The Oil Pump 1990 2.4 4G64

    If you didn't know it already, you can click on the images to enlarge them

    The common accepted knowledge for timing-belt-run engines is to replace the timing belt(s) every 60,000 miles…some less than that, but the point is: if you’re replacing the timing belt, you might want to consider replacing the water pump and oil pump while you have the engine stripped down that far. For some, the oil pump replacement is a necessity. For myself, I opted for preventative maintenance.

    The first thing you need to do is order the oil pump. I got mine through RockAuto.com and it cost $177.00. This kit came with gaskets, spacers and replacement sprocket with new nut, though I did not use the spacer or sprocket because they were much wider than my 2.4 4G64 wanted.

    You also need to order the oil pan gasket, unless you decide to just seal the pan with silicone sealant. I'm old-school, and recommend the gasket.

    You also want a fresh tube of silicone gasket sealer.

    A few pieces of cardboard will allow you to make a bolt-holder for the various components you’ll remove…this keeps you from putting longer bolts in shorter holes: something quite illegal in at least 47 states. Timing belt cover, oil filter holder, and the oil pump plate are bolt patterns you definitely want to keep straight. I made a holder for the oil pan bolts, but they are all the same length so there might not be a need to keep them in order. However, in any automotive repair, it’s always wise to put the same bolts back into the same hole. Marriage works that way, until the kids move out and the dog dies.

    Shown below: cardboard bolt holders for cylinder head project
    scan0030.jpg

    Acetone is useful for cleaning the mating surfaces, as personal lubricant only works for HUMAN mating surfaces, not automotive.

    You absolutely need to have a Chilton or Haynes service manual, and these run about $20 in any auto parts store. Though you can get the information online, it is good to have reference right there at the work bench.

    Of course, you’ll need oil and a new filter to replace that which you’ll drain in order to get the oil pan dropped. You might want to run some Seafoam in the crankcase for a bit before draining the oil to help keep the engine’s interior clean.

    A couple cans of brake spray cleaner is good to have on hand. If mechanic’s hand cleaner is on sale for a $1, snag a couple cans of it: you can use it to clean off the oil pan once it’s removed. An old (or disposable) paint brush works well for that task.

    All of these items require environmental consideration. If you know anything about the wave of pollution catching up to our society, like the Pacific Garbage Patch, then you know you need to do your part to help keep the planet a little healthier. Cars have been an environmental disaster for us, and the least we can do is minimize that damage with personal responsibility. Yours is not the only vehicle in the world: there are millions of them. Same with the products containers you throw away: the landfills can only hold so much before that crap comes floating back to you some day. The Fukushima tsunami proves it DOES come back at us, and then travels around the world in the natural currents of earth’s water and wind. “Everyone lives downstream”.

    As I highly recommend draining and removing the radiator for this project, you want to be aware of the anti-freeze you are responsible for. Dogs and cats will try to drink it, and it WILL kill them. Avoid that heartache and be sure to keep your drained anti-freeze in containers. Thanks to corporate marketing of ridiculously colored children’s beverages, very small children, too, might think the anti-freeze is “Kool Aid”, and since it IS sweet to the taste, you really need to take care with its handling.

    If I can instill anything on the reader, it is: to resolve yourself to take adequate time to do a good, clean job, and that involves a little extra preparation you will NOT regret. Particularly since you'll be replacing the timing belt and tensioners, easy access to the front of the engine is worth the time it takes to remove the radiator, and you might consider taking the bumper off, too.

    scan0031.jpg

    I don't have that under-bumper skirt on my truck, but if you DO, you'll be fighting it every time you want to get under the engine. You might want to take it off. These are all opportunities to clean and detail parts...maybe paint the bumper, behind the grille and perhaps the radiator tank.

    If you're replacing the oil pump, then your truck has lots of grease and oil on it: take the time to clean this off before you start, and you'll keep the job from getting gunked up. HERE is one idea for de-greasing the engine. If weather permits you to use a high-pressure car wash spray, it's a good investment.

    NOTE: "Silent Shaft" and "Balance Shaft" mean the same thing. These terms refer to the same part.
    Last edited by royster; 01-23-2014 at 09:00 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  6. #6

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Again, many opportunities are available: the radiator out means you can turn it upside-down and back-flush it with the garden hose or shower hand-held sprayer. Spray the cooling fins from the engine-side of the radiator, to push out the dirt and bugs from years of trips to the 7~11. When it goes back into your truck, it will now give you better service…all for a few moments of attention.

    And before starting out, be sure a good space is cleared for storing the parts you’ll be removing. Removing a part amidst clutter, and trying to find a place to put it results in a frustrating job. If you take the time before you start, you eliminate 90% of the frustration naturally built-in to haphazard mechanical tasks. If your work area is neat from the start, it sets the pace for a successful repair. In my home-improvement work, I always clean up before and after each phase of a project. I do the same for mechanical repairs. It provides clarity, locates missing tools, and gets rid of empty containers that get kicked around. Take out the trash. Eliminate distraction and confusion. Take out used shop rags. You have a 4-hour repair ahead of you that might take days to complete because you can only work on it 20 minutes a day: make your work space accommodating to a job well done. Clean up after each session, or resolve to start the next session with a clean up and tool re-organizing. You’ll have continuity to the task, and you’ll always know where you left off.
    ________________________________
    The book may tell you a different approach, but you need to start by disconnecting the battery. This does more than eliminate shorting out stuff when you spill that Keystone beer on the starter motor: it also affects the ECU, which monitors electrical components. Put that nosey bizzy-body to sleep while you’re working by disconnecting the battery. When the job is finished, and the ECU wakes up, it will monitor the system, and adjust things accordingly, without starting rumors and gossip about the affairs that went on the night before.

    Where to start from there? It’s all gotta be done, but a good starting point might be removing the fan and water pump pulley, then the crank pulley. The crank pulley has 4 small bolts and the larger center bolt which is 19MM. Designate a ½” drive ratchet with the 19MM socket for turning the crankshaft…you’ll be doing a lot of that. You can counter the loosening of the four smaller bolts by holding the center bolt with your ratchet or box-end wrench. Be sure to put the small bolts in a sandwich bag or a container where you won’t lose them. You don’t want to put them back on the crank pulley since you need to put the pulley on and off several times during the operation, for turning by hand (to see the timing mark).
    Next, make a cardboard bolt holder for the timing cover bolts. As there are different lengths that go in specific places, this is an important detail. Draw a couple indicators of where the top is, and where the bolts go…perhaps a crude outline of the two pieces that make up the timing cover. Then remove the timing belt cover.

    If you take the time right now to clean off the cover, inside and out, it is ready to go back into place clean. Then store it thoughtfully. I took the additional care to soak it with mineral oil while it’s out, then before re-installing, wiped the mineral oil off. This rejuvenates the plastic.
    scan0042.jpg
    Be careful to not lose the gaskets in the cover’s grove, and make sure they’re grease-free: when the timing belt goes back in, you want no oil or grease anywhere near it. Have a stash of clean rags just for those areas crucial to clean operation.

    Now it is time to make sure the #1 piston is top-dead-center, and that your timing marks are all aligned. Take the distributor cap off, noting (by the book or the marks you’ve placed on the distributor) where #1 firing position is. It should be just past the bottom cap clip. I marked mine so it’s a no-brainer, and is now second-nature to me. But only because I practiced sure-footed learning.

    Use the center bolt to turn the engine to where #1 is at TDC. You can put the bottom timing cover back on, then the crank pulley, but there are timing marks on the timing belt pulleys and oil gear to show you where the timing marks are. Before we go any further, let’s highlight a problem that occurs all the time: the timing mark for the cam gear. It is a little bump on the cylinder head, and NOT THE TOP OF THE HEAD. This distinction is the difference of being off one tooth, and that difference is huge.

    scan0038.jpg

    You can mark that little bump with a drop of paint or marking pen. The main thing is to know it's your primary timing mark for the cam.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  7. #7

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    There are clear illustrations in your manual as to where the timing marks are. Don’t worry about the oil gear mark: you’re replacing the pump and will be re-setting it. Once you are sure of the TDC position, remove the timing belt.

    A 10MM hex head wrench-bit is needed to loosen the top tensioner bolt. Then loosen the bottom tensioner bolt and let the timing belt relax. Then you can remove the belt, and if it’s in good shape, store it in a safe place where it can remain untwisted and immune to oil spills. That means the Gulf Of Mexico is out of the question.

    You’re going to have to remove that crankshaft center bolt...the pulley comes off first by removing the four small bolts. The crankshaft bolt holds on the timing gears, and while the book says you need a “helper” to assist you, I managed to do this by myself. It involves taking the inspection cover off the bottom of the transmission. (Be mindful of the nuts and bolts and where you place them). My trans is a 5-speed, but the automatic has the same basics: a flywheel with teeth for the starter. You’ll need to put a screwdriver on the right-hand side of the bottom of the bell housing, in one of those teeth, to keep the engine from turning while you loosen the crankshaft pulley bolt. Do not use the starter motor hole for this task. With the 19MM socket and ½” drive handle set to remove the bolt (counter-clockwise) you’ll do well to put a 24” or so piece of pipe on the ratchet handle…some call it a “cheater bar”, others call it “leverage pipe”. If it’s behind your front seat, it’s a “defense mechanism”.

    You can hold the screwdriver in place, on the surface of the bell housing while engaged in the flywheel gear-tooth, and pull (or push) the ratchet with your other hand. Using your leg is fair game. It shouldn’t take much to get the bolt loose, and from there you can just ratchet it off.

    A wheel puller removes the timing gears fairly easily once the center bolt is off. Now you can see the work before you.

    old engine.jpg
    NOTE! Engine shown is a 2.0

    The timing gears and balance shaft pulley need to come off. The left-side balance shaft gear is held on by a nut that needs to come off...my manual doesn't give any definitive means by which to do this.
    EDIT - Redneckmoparman suggests the following:
    "I would HIGHLY reccomend losening the bolt with the belt installed and the crankshaft held still. Once it is loose you can loosen the belt and remove it. With the belt off the gear should come off easily, and then the spacer behind it, slid on the balance shaft, should come off. I DID NOT DO THIS UNTIL I WAS REMOVING THE ASSEMBLY AND IT WAS TRYING TO BRING THE BALANCE SHAFT OUT WITH IT so please, make sure its just the small part left before you remove the front cover."
    I ended up putting a rag over it and holding it with channel locks while loosening the nut. I later thought that, since the oil pan is off, the balance shaft can be reached from under the engine and stopped that way. That is how I tightened the nut upon re-installation, but take care not to damage the shafts in any way as they CAN get bent or out of balance.

    Forum experts might wish to add their own trick for this glitch in detail. Perhaps a quick jolt counter-clockwise works if the belt is still tensioned. I dunnoh. No one said anything about it, or I missed that part of the movie.

    The nut and bolt for the tensioner come off, too.
    Last edited by royster; 01-25-2014 at 08:37 PM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  8. #8

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    If it's been a couple hours since the pan went on, install a new oil filter and put oil in the engine. I filled the filter up enough to install it without spilling oil.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  9. #9

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    TIMING BELT, continued
    If you added oil, check for any leaks. You likely won't find any yet, but if you do, now is the best time to correct them.

    The B belt is on, so anything I write about from here is about the main timing belt and its components.

    It's time to tighten the crankshaft pulley gears. Keep in mind that the timing cover fits over the pulley gears, but not the pulley…so you’ll be putting the pulley in last…and that pulley attaches with four bolts. So no need to panic about this part of the operation.

    On the left-side of the flywheel this time, you jam your screwdriver into a tooth on the flywheel, just as you did to loosen. This holds the engine still while you tighten the center crank bolt. Check your manual for torque specs. Once you've accomplished this, replace the dust cover on the bottom of the transmission, bidding 'adieu' to that dark world down there.

    Please keep your hands clean during this phase of the job: even a slight amount of oil or greasy finger-prints decreases the oomph of your efforts. If you want 60,000 miles out of these timing belts, give 'em the best chance you can.
    The tensioner unit should go on first, and the spring, spacer and retaining hex-head nut over it. Finger tighten the hex-head. Set the tension on the spring: the crooked end of the spring goes on the center piece of the tensioner, and the straight piece hooks under the water pump nub-ula made for it. A pair of pliers worked just fine for me to put the top part of the spring in place. I’m running out of photos to draw on, so this is the only one I’ve got for this illustration. God save your slothful ass if your engine still looks like this. [A 2.0 engine is shown]

    scan0044.jpg EDIT: I found a better picture scan0046.jpg

    Push the tensioner wheel all the way to the left and lightly tighten the lower bolt/nut...enough so it stays over there. If you’re installing new belts, a new nut/bolt likely came with the kit.

    Check one more time to assure the timing marks are right on the spot. If you did not remove the radiator, you’re having to look down at an angle, so you have to be extra careful. Conducting this operation through the radiator opening is way better for all reasons, I assure you…because I later had to re-set the belt while the radiator was in. Let me tell you why:

    Not knowing better, I pulled the belt tight from the crank gear up the left side, over the tensioner, and around the cam gear. THEN I slipped it on the oil pump gear. What this does is slowly allows the oil pump…attached to the balance shaft…to spin incrementally at a different pace. The silent shaft is geared from the oil pump and it turns at a different rate. Long story short: it will begin spinning out of sync with the rest of the engine, causing vibration rather than transmuting it. This will eventually beat the flock out of your oil pump while annoying you with bad vibrations.
    Next “heads-up”: the pulleys are going to have a wonderful time moving and not cooperating. They have a twisted sense of humor and they don’t respond to mere cussing or threats. Had I thought about it at the time, I’d have left the ratchet on the crank bolt and held it in place with my leg. But you’ll just need to try this out and see what works for you. THE IMPORTANT THING is to get the belt on the crank gears securely…you can flop the left-hand side of the belt up on the tensioner…and pull real tight around the oil pump gear (while not letting the crankshaft move). This may take a few attempts to get it right, but once you have good tension between the crank and the oil pump, pull up tight from the oil pump gear to the cam gear. Really tight, and you do, indeed, sort of slip it on the gear rather than place it up there. You’ll see: the trick is to keep these three gears tensioned this way, while all three stay on their marks. Once you get over the cam gear and the teeth are seated good, then you assure the belt is on the tensioner good. Flat side against the tensioner wheel. Check your timing marks, making sure they haven’t slipped. Loosen the lower tensioner nut/bolt and see if it affects the belt positioning.

    Be absolutely certain about this phase of the job and your truck will run really happy. Just for over-kill, here are a couple photos again for the timing marks.
    scan0038.jpg

    scan0036.jpg

    And, finally, make sure that the B belt side of things is where it's supposed to be, too.

    If you’re good on all this, tighten the hex bolt first, then the lower tensioner nut to the torque specifications. I gave mine just a tiny bit more finger-pressure tension before tightening.
    ____________________
    A sort of "Buddy System" is at work, here, and Redneckmoparman promised to review my information and check it for errors. So before I go any further we await the okay to procede. This way, everyone can be sure about the information we're sharing.
    Last edited by royster; 01-25-2014 at 03:08 PM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  10. #10

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Quote Originally Posted by royster View Post
    TIMING BELT, continued
    If you added oil, check for any leaks. You likely won't find any yet, but if you do, now is the best time to correct them.

    The B belt is on, so anything I write about from here is about the main timing belt and its components.

    It's time to tighten the crankshaft pulley gears. Keep in mind that the timing cover fits over the pulley gears, but not the pulley…so you’ll be putting the pulley in last…and that pulley attaches with four bolts. So no need to panic about this part of the operation.

    On the left-side of the flywheel this time, you jam your screwdriver into a tooth on the flywheel, just as you did to loosen. This holds the engine still while you tighten the center crank bolt. Check your manual for torque specs. Once you've accomplished this, replace the dust cover on the bottom of the transmission, bidding 'adieu' to that dark world down there.



    The tensioner unit should go on first, and the spring, spacer and retaining hex-head nut over it. Finger tighten the hex-head. Set the tension on the spring: the crooked end of the spring goes on the center piece of the tensioner, and the straight piece hooks under the water pump nub-ula made for it. A pair of pliers worked just fine for me to put the top part of the spring in place. I’m running out of photos to draw on, so this is the only one I’ve got for this illustration. God save your slothful ass if your engine still looks like this. [A 2.0 engine is shown]

    scan0044.jpg EDIT: I found a better picture scan0046.jpg

    Push the tensioner wheel all the way to the left and lightly tighten the lower bolt/nut...enough so it stays over there. If you’re installing new belts, a new nut/bolt likely came with the kit.

    Check one more time to assure the timing marks are right on the spot. If you did not remove the radiator, you’re having to look down at an angle, so you have to be extra careful. Conducting this operation through the radiator opening is way better for all reasons, I assure you…because I later had to re-set the belt while the radiator was in. Let me tell you why:



    Next “heads-up”: the pulleys are going to have a wonderful time moving and not cooperating. They have a twisted sense of humor and they don’t respond to mere cussing or threats. Had I thought about it at the time, I’d have left the ratchet on the crank bolt and held it in place with my leg. But you’ll just need to try this out and see what works for you. THE IMPORTANT THING is to get the belt on the crank gears securely…you can flop the left-hand side of the belt up on the tensioner…and pull real tight around the oil pump gear (while not letting the crankshaft move). This may take a few attempts to get it right, but once you have good tension between the crank and the oil pump, pull up tight from the oil pump gear to the cam gear. Really tight, and you do, indeed, sort of slip it on the gear rather than place it up there. You’ll see: the trick is to keep these three gears tensioned this way, while all three stay on their marks. Once you get over the cam gear and the teeth are seated good, then you assure the belt is on the tensioner good. Flat side against the tensioner wheel. Check your timing marks, making sure they haven’t slipped. Loosen the lower tensioner nut/bolt and see if it affects the belt positioning.

    Be absolutely certain about this phase of the job and your truck will run really happy. Just for over-kill, here are a couple photos again for the timing marks.
    scan0038.jpg

    scan0036.jpg

    And, finally, make sure that the B belt side of things is where it's supposed to be, too.

    If you’re good on all this, tighten the hex bolt first, then the lower tensioner nut to the torque specifications. I gave mine just a tiny bit more finger-pressure tension before tightening.
    ____________________
    A sort of "Buddy System" is at work, here, and Redneckmoparman promised to review my information and check it for errors. So before I go any further we await the okay to procede. This way, everyone can be sure about the information we're sharing.
    I really did a lousy job of cataloguing my repairs. It isn't likely I can re-write them any time soon: I'm working on helping build another website with someone, and that's getting my focus at the present time.

    But this should help you out, Tommy: post questions as you need, whatever thread you deem appropriate (your own or mine).

  11. #11

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-26-2013
    Posts
    234
    Location

    Olympia/wa
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4G64
    Only a few things i would like to note.
    First a easier way to hold the engine is to put a 5 speed in gear, 4 or 5th works best as you have less leverage to turn the tires and engage the parking brake FULLY and if your worried about it holding or just want to ensure that it does you can take a hammer or 2x4 or something similar and place it on the brake pedal and the seat and push the seat forward using it to hold the brake pedal, if you have an automatic then you have to go off the flywheel.

    Second is your one idea for the upper balance shaft i would HIGHLY reccomend losening the bolt with the belt installed and the crankshaft held still. Once it is loose you can loosen the belt and remove it. With the belt off the gear should come off easily, and then the spacer behind it, slid on the balance shaft, should come off. I DID NOT DO THIS UNTIL I WAS REMOVING THE ASSEMBLY AND IT WAS TRYING TO BRING THE BALANCE SHAFT OUT WITH IT so please, make sure its just the small part left before you remove the front cover.

    Third i had no problems pulling off the crankshaft gears with my hands just work it side to side while pulling and it will come off but if you have to use a puller just make sure no damage is caused to the gears

    No other notes to add and all looks well you are doing awesome royster i just might take some pictures to add for clarity if I'm not too lazy lol

  12. #12

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Thank you, RNMM. I had forgotten the left shaft had that spacer. And loosening the balance shaft bolt/nut while the belt is on is a far better idea. I'll go back and edit that part of the instruction, inserting your suggestion.

    I was unsure about loosening the crank bolt in the way you describe, so I went for sure-footed.

    It's great to have someone else check your work: they'll see stuff you don't, or that you missed.

    So thanks again, RNMM. And feel free to post pics: you KNOW this forum LOVES pictures
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  13. #13

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVER FROM THE SILENT SHAFT HOLE and replace the bolt there.

    Check your timing belt syncronisation by turning the crankshaft clockwise six complete cycles (revolutions). The camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump timing marks will all align every 2 revolutions. The left-hand silent shaft will only be in alignment with all the other marks every 6 rotations. After 6 revolutions, returning to TDC, all your timing marks should align. (If they don't, bite-the-bullet and start the process over, or figure out which cog is off, where).

    If you're confident of your timing, it's time to start putting things back together. Take a few moments to just look everything over, making sure everything is in its place.

    Replace the lower timing cover, then the upper cover, making sure the dust seals (gaskets) are in place. Put the distributor cap back on and secure it.

    Install the crank pulley with the 4 bolts and torque them as specified.

    Install the water-pump fan unit, then slip on the belt(s) for the alternator (and whatever else is running off the pulley). Tighten those accessories as needed.

    scan0025.jpg

    Install the radiator and the two hoses. Add coolant...take your time: it's having to get around the closed thermostat.

    IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE SO ALREADY, ADD FRESH OIL TO CAPACITY AND AN OIL FILTER. MAKE SURE THE OIL DRAIN PLUG IS TIGHTLY CLOSED. Replace the oil dip stick.

    Re-connect the battery cables.

    Remove all four spark plugs and disconnect the distributor harness-connection at the firewall. This is so you can crank the engine without any load, and without any spark. (This part of the operation scared the heck out of me, because even with lots of cranking, I couldn't see oil gushing up like Beverly Hillbilly bonanzas). (Actually, "Bonanza" came on before "Beverly Hillbillies", but that was Los Angeles).

    I opted to hand-crank the engine several rotations (clockwise) before using the electric starter. I used the center pully nut and a 1/2 ratchet. Make sure the ratchet handle and socket are removed before starting the engine. Remove your half-eaten sandwich from the valve cover, and remove the Mountain Dew can from the top of the battery.

    Crank the engine in 10 second intervals, let the starter rest between cranks. Monitor your oil light or guage. Do this about 4 times. Between each cranking you can remove the oil cap and see what's going on inside the valve cover. Be patient: remember, a brand-new pump is having to prime itself, pump oil through all those passagesways AND the oil filter. It might not be immediately noticeable that oil is flowing freely. And my experience was: although the oil light was on, it did not show any appreciable difference until the engine was actually running.

    EDIT: This in from Redneckmoparman:
    You can crank longer than 10sec and i would reccomend doing so i would say 30-45sec the only problem that can arise is overheating the starter longer than 60sec i advise against and about 10sec inbetween 30sec cranking intervals the problem with short cranking periods is the needed pumping cannot be accomplished at the 200-300rpms when cranking as the pump has to pull oil up, through the pump, and to the filter where it will turn off the dummy light and STILL has not reached any bearings and when you stop cranking it looses any pressure it had so your just starting from where you began
    Replace the spark plugs, set the wires on them, and re-connect the firewall harness.

    Fire that bad muthuh up.

    Have a flashlight handy so you can immediately begin checking for leaks, both oil and coolant. You can remove the oil cap briefly (it can stall the engine, so be quick), and should be able to see oil splashing around in a very short time. However, if no oil is present with the engine running for several seconds, monitor you oil light or guage. The light fading in and out is good: remaining brightly lit is not good. Blinking is a good indication. However, if no oil or oil pressure is obvious, turn off the engine. Listen to hear oil dripping inside the engine down to the oil pan. Look inside your valve cover to see what's going on in there. Check to make sure your oil pressure sending unit is connected.

    It may take several seconds for the oil pressure to get to normal: it did for me, and I was nervous the whole time. But soon enough, joyful little beads of oil were tossing flower pedals everywhere, proclaiming "peace and love" and other reassuring psychodelic catch~phrases. The new pump has had to push oil into all the engine's passages...many of which had drained while the engine sat. So it stands to reason it will take some time for the oil circulation to reach operating standard.

    Keep checking for leaks. Let the engine get up to operating temperature (if no leaking occurs) and then shut it off. Inspect your work and check the oil level. Hook up the timing light and set the timing: for a 1990 2.4 it's 5 to 7 degrees before top dead center. Be sure the engine is at operating temperature before setting the timing.

    To set the timing using the ignition timing connector: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26994

    Clean up: the Beverly Hillbillies are coming on, and this is continued from last week, when Granny refused to cook her possum-gut casserole because Ellie Mae was keeping piranhas in the swimming pool. Dumb ol' Jethro doesn't know this and is about to go for a dip.


    Stay tuned: it's bound to be a good show.

    ~royster


    Roy's Garage Quick Referrence Menu
    Last edited by royster; 02-03-2014 at 06:47 PM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  14. #14

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    Quote Originally Posted by royster View Post
    REMOVE THE SCREWDRIVER FROM THE SILENT SHAFT HOLE and replace the bolt there.

    Check your timing belt syncronisation by turning the crankshaft clockwise six complete cycles (revolutions). The camshaft, crankshaft and oil pump timing marks will all align every 2 revolutions. The left-hand silent shaft will only be in alignment with all the other marks every 6 rotations. After 6 revolutions, returning to TDC, all your timing marks should align. (If they don't, bite-the-bullet and start the process over, or figure out which cog is off, where).

    If you're confident of your timing, it's time to start putting things back together. Take a few moments to just look everything over, making sure everything is in its place.

    Replace the lower timing cover, then the upper cover, making sure the dust seals (gaskets) are in place. Put the distributor cap back on and secure it.

    Install the crank pulley with the 4 bolts and torque them as specified.

    Install the water-pump fan unit, then slip on the belt(s) for the alternator (and whatever else is running off the pulley). Tighten those accessories as needed.

    scan0025.jpg

    Install the radiator and the two hoses. Add coolant...take your time: it's having to get around the closed thermostat.

    IF YOU HAVEN'T DONE SO ALREADY, ADD FRESH OIL TO CAPACITY AND AN OIL FILTER. MAKE SURE THE OIL DRAIN PLUG IS TIGHTLY CLOSED. Replace the oil dip stick.

    Re-connect the battery cables.

    Keep checking for leaks. Let the engine get up to operating temperature (if no leaking occurs) and then shut it off. Inspect your work and check the oil level. Hook up the timing light and set the timing: for a 1990 2.4 it's 5 to 7 degrees before top dead center. Be sure the engine is at operating temperature before setting the timing.

    To set the timing using the ignition timing connector: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post26994

    Clean up: the Beverly Hillbillies are coming on, and this is continued from last week, when Granny refused to cook her possum-gut casserole because Ellie Mae was keeping piranhas in the swimming pool. Dumb ol' Jethro doesn't know this and is about to go for a dip.


    Stay tuned: it's bound to be a good show.

    ~royster


    Roy's Garage Quick Referrence Menu
    Hope this is of service sksksk

  15. #15

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    10-26-2013
    Posts
    234
    Location

    Olympia/wa
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge Ram 50
    Engine

    4G64
    You can crank longer than 10sec and i would reccomend doing so i would say 30-45sec the only problem that can arise is overheating the starter longer than 60sec i advise against and about 10sec inbetween 30sec cranking intervals the problem with short cranking periods is the needed pumping cannot be accomplished at the 200-300rpms when cranking as the pump has to pull oil up, through the pump, and to the filter where it will turn off the dummy light and STILL has not reached any bearings and when you stop cranking it looses any pressure it had so your just starting from where you began

  16. #16

    Array
    Status
    Offline
    Join Date
    12-21-2013
    Posts
    1,257
    Location

    Maurertown, Virginia
    Vehicle

    1990 Dodge D-50
    Engine

    4G64
    That's just excellent information, RNMM. Thanks.

    I try to err on the side of caution, but sometimes that can work against me.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •