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The common accepted knowledge for timing-belt-run engines is to replace the timing belt(s) every 60,000 miles…some less than that, but the point is: if you’re replacing the timing belt, you might want to consider replacing the water pump and oil pump while you have the engine stripped down that far. For some, the oil pump replacement is a necessity. For myself, I opted for preventative maintenance.
The first thing you need to do is order the oil pump. I got mine through RockAuto.com and it cost $177.00. This kit came with gaskets, spacers and replacement sprocket with new nut, though I did not use the spacer or sprocket because they were much wider than my 2.4 4G64 wanted.
You also need to order the oil pan gasket, unless you decide to just seal the pan with silicone sealant. I'm old-school, and recommend the gasket.
You also want a fresh tube of silicone gasket sealer.
A few pieces of cardboard will allow you to make a bolt-holder for the various components you’ll remove…this keeps you from putting longer bolts in shorter holes: something quite illegal in at least 47 states. Timing belt cover, oil filter holder, and the oil pump plate are bolt patterns you definitely want to keep straight. I made a holder for the oil pan bolts, but they are all the same length so there might not be a need to keep them in order. However, in any automotive repair, it’s always wise to put the same bolts back into the same hole. Marriage works that way, until the kids move out and the dog dies.
Shown below: cardboard bolt holders for cylinder head project
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Acetone is useful for cleaning the mating surfaces, as personal lubricant only works for HUMAN mating surfaces, not automotive.
You absolutely need to have a Chilton or Haynes service manual, and these run about $20 in any auto parts store. Though you can get the information online, it is good to have reference right there at the work bench.
Of course, you’ll need oil and a new filter to replace that which you’ll drain in order to get the oil pan dropped. You might want to run some Seafoam in the crankcase for a bit before draining the oil to help keep the engine’s interior clean.
A couple cans of brake spray cleaner is good to have on hand. If mechanic’s hand cleaner is on sale for a $1, snag a couple cans of it: you can use it to clean off the oil pan once it’s removed. An old (or disposable) paint brush works well for that task.
All of these items require environmental consideration. If you know anything about the wave of pollution catching up to our society, like the Pacific Garbage Patch, then you know you need to do your part to help keep the planet a little healthier. Cars have been an environmental disaster for us, and the least we can do is minimize that damage with personal responsibility. Yours is not the only vehicle in the world: there are millions of them. Same with the products containers you throw away: the landfills can only hold so much before that crap comes floating back to you some day. The Fukushima tsunami proves it DOES come back at us, and then travels around the world in the natural currents of earth’s water and wind. “Everyone lives downstream”.
As I highly recommend draining and removing the radiator for this project, you want to be aware of the anti-freeze you are responsible for. Dogs and cats will try to drink it, and it WILL kill them. Avoid that heartache and be sure to keep your drained anti-freeze in containers. Thanks to corporate marketing of ridiculously colored children’s beverages, very small children, too, might think the anti-freeze is “Kool Aid”, and since it IS sweet to the taste, you really need to take care with its handling.
If I can instill anything on the reader, it is: to resolve yourself to take adequate time to do a good, clean job, and that involves a little extra preparation you will NOT regret. Particularly since you'll be replacing the timing belt and tensioners, easy access to the front of the engine is worth the time it takes to remove the radiator, and you might consider taking the bumper off, too.
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I don't have that under-bumper skirt on my truck, but if you DO, you'll be fighting it every time you want to get under the engine. You might want to take it off. These are all opportunities to clean and detail parts...maybe paint the bumper, behind the grille and perhaps the radiator tank.
If you're replacing the oil pump, then your truck has lots of grease and oil on it: take the time to clean this off before you start, and you'll keep the job from getting gunked up. HERE is one idea for de-greasing the engine. If weather permits you to use a high-pressure car wash spray, it's a good investment.
NOTE: "Silent Shaft" and "Balance Shaft" mean the same thing. These terms refer to the same part.
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