Roy's Garage: '90 2.4-4G64 5-spd D-50

[royster]

Timing is perfect as I can make it without starting it up and using a timing light...which my neighbor has right now. It was a remarkable experience to put all that together. It took two tries before I got that "one tooth" glitch straightened out. That's likely par for the course. The B belt alligns every two rotations (check) and the #1 TDC every 6 revolutions all marks line up (check).

I'm at present putting the intake manifold back on. I set the engine to #1 TDC and removed the distributor: getting to a couple bolts on the manifold will be easier that way.

I hand-cranked the engine several times to get oil circulating from the new pump. ANY SUGGESTIONS OR POINTERS ARE VERY APPRECIATED...I'm not sure what kind of flow I'm supposed to be seeing, or if the pump needed priming...it came fully assembled.

One cool design I noticed is that the cam shaft has a trough running the length of the head that oil puddles in. The cams dip down into it and will always have plenty of oil.

In pouring oil onto the valve asembly to fill the pan up to dip-stick max, I heard leaking below. I discovered that putting the distributor in was important if I'm to add oil this way . That was the only leak.

I had the thermostat housing upside-down: the distributor won't go into place if the hose connector is in the lower position.

So for now I'm taking a break, to get away from "myself" for a while. Need to go get some butts and a snack. Any suggestions for pre-ignition I will deeply appreciate. All is well, for now.

[royster]

I'm down to small details, now...set up distributor wires, timing cover, fussing.

At some point, tomorrow, I turn the key.

[Redneckmoparman]

I would unplug the distributor on the firewall and crank it over to prime the pump and get oil circulating just use the key and crank it over for about 30sec id say at least twice it wolnt hurt the starter and if you pull the spark plugs so it can turn over faster without compression it can build a little more pressure

[Redneckmoparman]

Also unplugging the dist will prevent fuel spray and unplug the ignition module to prevent spark which is the small unit on the bracket above the dist

[royster]

I am so grateful for your suggestion, RNMM. I had thought to do something like that, but had no way to verify its sanity. I'll go ahead and do that. I had also thought to simply remove the fuel pump fuse during that process...I have fuel in the lines and fuel rail. While the intake was off, I kept Seafoam in the fuel line.

Also, you experts can validate this observation or dismiss it: I noticed that the coolant temperature sensor sits low in the thermostat housing. The thermostat has an off-center positioning...sort of like a fried egg...and the housing has a beveled bottom. I figured that the thermostat needs to open on the lower end or it will hit the sensor prong, preventing the thermostat from fully opening. Not sure this is true, but if it is, this would cause the engine to run hotter than necessary. There is a little "air valve" at the 'top' of the thermostat (as it should be placed when installing) that indicates to me the proper positioning of the whole unit. Again, the frikkin' book says nothing about this. But by observing the sensor's placement (top of the thermostat housing) and the thermostat itself, this is what I concluded. I positioned it in the way that made the most sense.

EDIT: Thanks to Komeuppance:

your thermostat orientation is correct with the bleed valve at the top, the sensor in the housing will not obstruct it from opening all the way.

It is true that I'm down to small details, but I forgot to mention the radiator needs to go in. I'll put it in last, as the open front of the engine bay lets me see what I'm doing straightforward instead of bending over. I want to back-flush the radiator before re-installing it: Jimmy Hoffa gets around.

Thanks again, RedneckMoparMan. Having some input during this last phase gives me some confidence.

[royster]

I want to back-flush the radiator before re-installing it: Jimmy Hoffa gets around.

For all the fliters and monitors cars have, there is no water filter or any real means of keeping the cooling sytem clean. While you have your radiator out, the opportunity is there to not only back-flush, but clean the coolant fin system. A hand-held shower head is great for this task, especially if you can conduct this task in the bathtub or shower stall. Heck, you might want to get naked and take a shower WITH your radiator...a few candles and some mood music might show your truck you care...intimately.

But if you're not into heavy-metal sex, then you'll just want to get some hot water flowing from the bottom out the top (turning the radiator upside down) and watch all the crap that comes out. When you lose a sock while doing laundry, and can't find it, you'll discover it somehow ended up in your radiator. Why not? It's a perfect hiding place, because no one ever pays attention to it.

Nice hot water back flushing, then spray the fins from the engine-side: all those years, the air flow through the radiator has wedged dust and insects...some of which have since become extinct...and spraying in the reversal of that air flow will dislodge all those hippy squatters residing in the most important part of your radiator.

I do not recommend using a brush or anything else but water pressure to back flush the fins, though some mild cleaner spray won't hurt. Oven cleaner is NOT an option.

Back in the days when real brass radiators could be fixed and rebuilt, I was told by a radiator-shop guy that there is no need to paint the radiator: the paint acts as insulation and retains just that much more heat. I have opted to actually polish the brass, as real metal radiators are...as Barbie says..."like...fer sher...SOOOOOoo '80's!!" Barbie technically is having an affair with her brother, so I don't listen to her.

I was not too surprised by the rust and gunkus-funkus-ola (ewww!) that flushed out of my radiator: rust had been evident when the cap was removed while the truck was in service. I tried to back-flush the heater core, but apparently there is a one-way valve inside where I couldn't get to. Hopefully the cooling system is mostly clear of particulate and during the course of operation, any residual gunkocity will de-funkify.

RADIATORS: WATER YOU WAITING FOR?

Radiator Trivia

The same guy who carried raw bacon and panty hose in his trunk also kept a can of black pepper. If the radiator sprung a leak, pepper added to the radiator would expand while circulating...you see Arnald Schwartanegger doing this all the time...and if the leak was not too big, the pepper would plug the leak. It caused the engine to smell like beef jerky, but it got you into town where they sell fresh bacon and fish-net panty hose for that REAL party Leonardo DiCaprio promises to take you to.
____________________
For the intial start up and test-run, I'm going to run straight water. It's not that I have anything against bi-sexual or gay water, it's just that straight water will give an additional flush when the engine checks out and gets shut off. After insuring there are no leaks, I will drain the water, then add the proper mix of coolant. Should there be a leak, I don't have to worry about anti-freeze dripping on the floor when the cats might be prone to lap it up. I try to be very careful about that.
____________________
I want to take this time to say a hello to Lee, who visits this site and keeps up with my progress. Lee is a member of my web-sites and a very good friend. His son is not only an expert on these small engines, but is actively looking for a D-50 because he loves them.

So...HI LEE! Thanks for watching out for me.

[royster]

I cranked the engine quite a bit without the ignition connected, but the oil light remained on. I cranked several times for about 10 seconds each time. As the view into the rockerarms is limited to one rockerarm assembly, I can't tell for sure plenty of oil is getting up there. I'm in panic mode.

I went ahead and installed plugs and cranked it up. It started almost immediately, though a very slow idle....struggling yet determined. It didn't run too long, and again I looked in the valve cover and was a bit stressed by the absense of plenty of oil.

I'm going to take the valve cover off and see if I have oil up there. If I don't, I have no idea what to do next: there is no information readily available to me.

[royster]

Apollogies for the panic attack: everything turned out fine.

It started quicker when I advanced (or retarded) the distributor, so I'm not sure if I'm one tooth off on the distributor, but I think the timing could be better.
EDIT: Thanks to Komeuppance:

...are you able to set your distributor near the middle of it's adjustment range after you retimed the belts?? If it needs to use all the adjustment up one way, you are one tooth off with the belt. You NEED to ground the timing adjustment wire near the firewall to set the timing correctly, this tells the ECU not to change the timing, allowing you to set the base timing. Having the cam timing off, or the ignition timing off will make it slow.

I have a seriously ticky lifter, and I have to assume I installed a hydrolic lifter upside-down. Comments welcome. As there is no adjustment on this engine for rockerarms, it's all IN the lifter, and these are new. My intention is to remove the valve cover and inspect them, but tomorrow: this is enough for one day.

NOW THE GOOD NEWS
Once I was confident the oil was getting through, I started the truck up and let it get to operating temperature. The warmer it got, the better it ran...getting its "sea-legs" after sitting for so long, and the battery disconnected, I assume the electronics have to re-callibrate themselves. I was hoping the lifter would pump up, but it didn't.

Even in its rough-tuned state, it still starts with a bump of the key. There was ONE tear~drop leak from the water pump...where I forgot to tighten the alternator bracket bolt that goes through the water pump. Everything else is wonderful. The engine has a good smell to it. There was very little smoke when it started up, and none as it ran. The worst smoke was actually paint burning off the heat sheild: that "high heat" paint obviously isn't meant for that high of a heat. I'll let it burn off and chalk it up to experience.

I drained the water/radiator flush and was happy to see very little crap come out. I refilled the water system with coolant and let it get back up to running temperature so it could mix real well: tonight it's supposed to get down to 19 degrees and I don't want to take any chances.

There was an internal backfire when I gunned the motor, which leads me to think the timing is off at the distributor by a tooth. I could really use some expert advice on that. As the distributor is all the way to one side of its possible travel, I tend to think the tooth thing, but I don't know for sure. [SEE ABOVE EDIT NOTE]

So tomorrow I'll take the valve cover off and see what's what in there. Is it possible to remove the rocker arm assembly without removing the cam, or will the cam come up and whomp me on my stubborn head once the bearing are loosened?

Once the engine has a good bill of health, I'll procede to the disc brake problem. Soon enough I'll be driving my Little Tin Can, but for today, it was wonderfult to hear him run again.

He gets to live in the garage for the Winter.

Also, I went to have photos developed but the one-hour machine was broken, so it will be Tuesday before I can post pictures, but I got some good ones.

[royster]

Does anything happen at 150 posts?

EDIT:

Apparently so.

*royster has reached 150 posts!* 07:48 PM

Oh...and I'm a senior, now.

Great: another reminder

[royster]

Is it possible to remove the rocker arm assembly without removing the cam, or will the cam come up and whomp me on my stubborn head once the bearing are loosened?

Thinking about it, I should be able to loosen the belt tensioner and leave the cam sit, but I'm interested in seeing how my repair stood up, so likely I'll mark the timing and lift the cam. Since the radiator is back in, I don't have the luxury of seeing all timing marks head-on. Anyone making these repairs...head removal, timing belt replacement or oil pump replacement...I highly recommend taking the extra time to drain and remove the radiator. It will make your life easier and gives you the chance to back-flush, too. The radiator is on with four bolts and two hose clamps. Please be sure to keep coolant away from animals: it's highly toxic. It has a sweet taste and dogs don't know any better than to drink it. Cats, too. If you decide to re-use the coolant, now is your chance to filter it. Old t-shirts work well. (Old t-shirts also make great Shop-Vac filters when cut to the circle-size of the original dust filter, plus you can wash them for re-use).

Removing the bumper served me well, as it allowed better working area, getting righ up to the engine block.
.

BTW, I noticed the temperature guage read significantly lower for normal operating temperature.

The procedure I intend to use today is to remove the valve cover and see which rockerarm is ticking so loud. I should be able to see if the lifter is upside down, and if it is, then I can procede to the timing cover removal, loosen timing belt, then BLOCK THE OIL PASSAGES because don't you know those lifters will drop right into them. The hydrolic lifters fit into the valve-side of the rockerarm and they easily drop out, given the chance. (Why finish high school when you can just drop out and get a GED later?) In putting the rockerarm assembly in, I taped each lifter into place by wrapping electrician's tap around that end of the rocker arm. Once the assembly was in place, the tape easily slides off. Taking the assembly off I am going to try cutting the fingers off a pair of mechanic's gloves, and slide them over each rockerarm end. Hey: four fingers per glove, eight fingers total, should work, huh? I'll let you know. But if I opt to simply flip the lifter in-place (instead of inspecting the repairs) I might not need to go to that trouble.

I suspect that correcting this lifter will affect the idle, which really isn't bad at all, right now. The truck always DID run nice, and now it's happy with good oil, clean coolant and a whole lot less gunk on the surfaces. Having corrected the real reason the engine smoked, I have no need for thick oil. This was an expensive lesson to learn, but I can now pass this information along to fellow Mitsubishi friends. I also know what my little truck wants in order to run happy and healthy. But perhaps the biggest benefit of all (besides driving a cool little truck) is that I can work on my own engine, because I know it, now.

Among other arts I get into, I am a writer. My story, The Old Man's Garage, was written many years ago, and it is based on my first impressions of the garage I work in now. But there wasn't anything in that garage when I moved here...except years of abandonment and crap. Over the years, I tried to make it work-able, but until the floor could be installed and the front of the building could be closed off, it was a struggle to keep birds out, and crawl under vehicles (on a sloped, dirt floor). It was inheritance money that allowed me to finally create a shop that I could conduct multiple projects comfortably. It was money well-invested.

And one day, while working on the truck, I realized I HAD lit that kerosene lantern, and allowed the Old Man to live again.

I am he.

[royster]

Once I had the valve cover off, I slipped a piece of paper under #1 intake, which had a lot of play in it. Then I whacked the rockerarm with my hand. This left an imprint on the paper, which showed a circle with a hole in the center. So I knew that lifter was upside down. One was all it took: no need to check the others, the whole thing had to come off.

The glove fingers worked terrific for holding the lifters onto the rockerarms.
scan0008.jpg

ROCKER ARM ASSEMBLY REMOVAL NOTE: Starting in the middle of the assembly, loosen the bolts 1/4 turn, moving outward to each bearing cap in a clockwise pattern. Take several cycles of 1/4 turns to allow the valve pressure to ease up equally: this is so the shafts don't bend excessively during the removal process. Once all the bolts are loose enough to remove by finger-turning, take them out and place them on a cardboard holder with the pattern of their placement. Re-installing them, take care to tighten, again, with 1/4 turns until tight enough to torque to specification.

I loosened the timing belt tension and indeed, the rocker assembly came out with only slight rising of the cam shaft. I had taken the precaution of removing the distributor, just in case...avoiding any possible broken gear teeth. I weighted the firewall side down until I could get a spare bearing to hold it down. I also noticed, while the timing cover was off, somehow the oil pump timing mark was off. I corrected it, but I tell ya, having that radiator off made a world of difference the first time around. I didn't have that luxury this time.

Both lifters on #1 were upside down, the rest were fine. (Photo enhanced to show lifters)
scan0007.jpg

Now for the bad news:

Just as I was setting the assembly down on the workbench I had a serious distraction (cord of firewood delivered) and I'm not remembering if I reversed the exhaust lifter or not. One thing for sure: when I started the engine up, a lifter was still making noise. So I'm not sure of I fried the #1 lifters or not. Having run them with no oil (technically) could have caused them to wear internally. Any comments?

EDIT: Not sure what the problem was, but the lifters DID eventually pump up. The willingness to tear down AGAIN and put back together served many positive purposes. I know the procedure now. AND I was able to put everything back with careful focus and caring detail. It was worth "the extra mile".

After "surgery", when I turned the key, the engine couldn't WAIT to start up. In fact, the choke was working, which it hadn't before...not since I had the truck. It warmed up really nice, and there was no internal backfiring or anything except healthy, strong engine ready for the road...with the exception of a ticky lifter.

No smoke, a happy idle (athough a little high, but I haven't timed it, yet) and a smooth operating attitude. The temperature guage now reads a lower "normal", which I'm happy with: it had always been approaching the center of the guage before all of this.

Practice makes perfect: I get to do this operation one more time, to determine if, in fact, my distraction caused me to forget about the exhaust lifter, or if in fact I need to replace them due to improper installation.

I checked the torque on the head bolts, just 'cause I could. This engine is clean, happy, and better than ever. AND I know it pretty well, now.

I sure wish i could take it for a drive, but with the locking caliper, I'll just have to be patient until those front brakes are fixed.



I ceremoniously put the hood and bumper back on the front end. My Pony is alive once again!

scan0028.jpg

[lush90]

You're really getting to know that truck! Sounds like great progress!

[royster]

Thanks lush90. It's been quite journey.


Anyone got good information about proper timing belt tension? Is the tensioner, alone, the only pressure or do you push the tensioner to tighten the belt a little more? I don't want to over-tighten the belt.

[royster]

Anyone got good information about proper timing belt tension? Is the tensioner, alone, the only pressure or do you push the tensioner to tighten the belt a little more? I don't want to over-tighten the belt.

THANKS (as always) TO BRADMPH - this video showed me a couple of things I did wrong. Since I have to remove the valve and timing cover again, I'll be certain to follow these instructions.

Even at this, there is still no focus on the tensioner, but I get a better idea. I'm sure I'm not the only one who gets hung~up on small details like this.

Timing Belt Replacement & Distributor Reinstallation G63B
Video shows an install of a timing belt and the re-installation of the distributor.
Shows all the time mark line ups on the gears and housing and the positioning markings on distributor
to place it into position correctly.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...tallation-G63B

[royster]

jonah was
swallowed by
a whale

scan0001.jpg

[royster]

The oil sump and pan, clean...oil sump installed

scan0002.jpg scan0003.jpg

Putting it all together

scan0011.jpg scan0012.jpg scan0016.jpg scan0004.jpg

scan0023.jpg scan0025.jpg scan0028.jpg

So odd to see the truck like this.
scan0031.jpg

But it's all back together and ready for the road.

This project is finished.

[royster]

The day I took the picture on the left, I knew nothing about that engine. I know quite a bit, now.


scan0015.jpgscan0025.jpg

[royster]

This morning I went back and got down to the cam, again. I inspected everything and cleaned as I could. Between what I read on another site, and BradMPH's video, I completely re-did the timing. When it was all back together, it ran so well I could barely feel it run. The ticking is slowly fading away.

In putting it all back together, I took my time and tucked things in their places...so the engine looks even neater than the photos above. I had no sooner backed the truck out of the garage, when the phone rang: it was the photo developer telling me my prints were ready. "Timing is everything", they say...

The timing belt detail made a huge difference: while the engine ran good, yesterday, there WAS a lot of 'deep" vibration I could feel. I surmised the balance shaft was off (amazing what one tooth adds up to over several thousand rpm's of idling) and indeed, it was. By pulling the timing belt from the crank, to the oil cog, to the cam, the balance shaft remained as it should. Hence, very little vibration. I had originally done it in a reverse order. That's why the oil pump gear was off when I opened up the cover. I didn't know that, then. I do now.

At one point, with the truck out of the garage, I was ready to drive it into town to put some gas in it. Alas: the brake caliper was really seizing up, so back into the garage it went for a brake rebuild. Not sure when: though we had perfect weather today for backing the truck out and cleaning the garage, we have a severe cold front coming through for the next few days.

But the engine project is finished. What a journey that was, and one I don't regret. I'm a bit disappointed the experts here remained primarily silent, but everyone's got a life to live. There are other websites available. Besides:I got through it all, just the same.

Very good results.

[pennyman1]

I would have commented more but I have no experience with the 4g64 to add to you work. I live in the carb world of Ram 50 MMM.

[rusty bishi]

lol..give me a hand would ya.

[rusty bishi]

I am no expert by any means,but I can say that looks like a MIGHTY fine job,pun intended.lol I too went into my mighty max with absolutely no knowledge of these trucks.one thing I learned is pull it out ,tear it down,see what broke! actually that's 3 things.

[Redneckmoparman]

yeah it seems all the knowledgable guys here are 1gn carb guys so were kinda left high and dry to learn with eachother on our modern technology but you've done great! and with a killer write up and good pictures that should help everybody learn what to do and what not to do

[BradMph]

We are carb guys cause we bought the trucks when you all were making googly eyes at your babysitters. lol. Pennyman has owned his truck since the time they had Fred Flintstone rock wheels on trucks and you stomped your foot on the road to stop the darn thing.

[royster]

Humble bow, and thanks all. What I feel is that I do have a nitch on this forum, for exactly that which is missing. I was NEVER good at carboration, and fuel injection is new to me, but by getting my hands into it, I'm learning.

What I plan to do is write a couple threads exclusively instructional, based on my experience (I have more photos coming), specific to tasks. And the thread titles will be clear so future lost souls can get their hands on it. Who's gonna think to look for clutch replacement tips on a thread titled "Having Trouble, Hemorrhoids Too" ? Or cyclinder head work on "Bad Meth Made Me Do This" ?

It is very satisfying to be at the pause point where I walk around and wipe off little smudges with a clean rag, stereo playing and cats purring. And it won't last long: brakes are next, but I want to bask in the acheivement...and sharing...as long as I can

[royster]

Three inches of snow this morning. I went out to start the truck and let it get up to operating temperature. I am continuing to monitor for leaks. There's only one, a tiny drop of what appears to be coolant, in a rather fickle place. It's on the firewall, passenger side of the head, but above the head gasket, and just below some bolt or plug. So it's not coming from the head gasket. Other than that, I am so happy to report no other leaks of any kind.

I get some smoke on start-up, but not a lot. The engine is breaking in to its rebuild (as it were) pretty good, though I wish I could take it out and put it through its paces. Snow and locked brakes won't allow this, and I tend to not argue with God's Plan. With kerosene going for $4.00 a gallon, and temps forecast to be below freezing the rest of the week, I'm prone to give it all a rest, for now.

But we all KNOW about truck~addiction.

The most noise the truck makes when its running is the input bearing on the transmission...or whatever noice that is. It's done it ever since I've had it.

I'm running 10-40 oil (or there-abouts) for now. I'll confess that I added about 3 ounces of Lucas oil stablizer...hopefully enough to quiet the last of the lifter noise, and perhaps minimize the start-up smoke. The oil dipstick reads a little over full...I probably added a half quart or so more than "max" when I originally put the engine back together. Not sure how much that affects the smoking.

'Gonna put the F-150 in 4x4 and go get film developed for posting this afternoon.

RockAuto sent me a discount code. I feel so privelaged