Roy's Garage: '90 2.4-4G64 5-spd D-50

[royster]

The Fed-Ex guy just left after dropping off my oil pump and other goodies.

I got the cylinder head back this morning and I have everything I need to get back to work on the Tin Can, including 50 degree weather for a few days, above-freezing at night.

In theory, when this engine is put back together, it will be better than ever...or at least, any smoking will be absolutely minimal: there's no question I've addressed the core problem of the oil burning.

Will be taking pics to post.

Time to fire up the kerosene heater!

[royster]

I started trying to install the valve guide seals, but was a bit stumped by the "o" rings that came with the package.

The book, again, says NOTHING about installing valve guide seals except "install them". Well, wonderful, but there's nothing to go by, except to look at the part, and the part it fits on. It should go this way or that, but no definitive instructions anywhere. I assume the plastic is all that goes in place (without the "o" rings) and that's enough to keep oil out. Guaging by the distance from the top of the guide to the groove the seal is supposed to fit on, it doesn't seem to match up. How far down do you go? Does that beveled groove self-tap the seal? I'd hate to go through all this trouble and have it fail...simply because I can't find a simple answer to a simple question.

This is one situation I DON'T want to learn from failure: these seals not working right means tearing this thing down again. I was unable to locate any threads here regarding the actual process of installing valve guide seals.

Help



And for all my careful bagging of each individual valve assembly, I somehow lost two or three spring bases. WTF? That's when I knew it was time to walk away for the night before I started

Tomorrow I will start by doing a good clean up and organizing everything: stuff's getting scattered and misplaced. I must say, in good faith, that I'm glad to be back out there after the freezing weather. And getting frustrated is no way to enjoy the project, OR do good work.

EDIT: This was of some assistance: thanks Brad MPH~
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...uide-Seals-101

[royster]

Here's a video I found that helps to understand the process. (Another video explained what to listen for regarding the sound of when the seal is properly seated).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVMbFA8cy-E

I noted the importance of making sure the seals are well lubricated.

For the experts, this simple task is second-nature. For those who have never been through the process, it's baffling.

The videos show a few specialised tools, the Chilton book uses everyday available tools...like using a deep socket to tap the seal into place. I did not like the minor damage this did to the seal top, so I'll locate some tubing to match the hard surface top of the seal: mine are metal-jacket for exhaust, 'rubber' for intake.

The confusion about the "o" rings was cleared up by BradMph's valve seals 101 post: knowing the difference in "umbrella" type seals and "positive" helps me to comprehend the task in front of me. I do not have "umbrella" seals in the 2.4 .

Without any feedback about installation, I went ahead and installed one seal WITH an "o" ring...not knowing better. Consequently, I destroyed the seal...more so when I removed it. I learn as I make mistakes. Sharing those mistakes is beneficial to others, so here you are.

I want to take the time, again, to thank BradMph for providing information useful to keeping these engines in good order

In looking at the parts catalogues, I found each set of replacement seals comes with a plastic installation sleeve, that fits over the valve stem. This is great for protecting the seal as it is lowered into place, and the sleeve slides off easily after the seal is finger-pressure tight on the stem. What confused me about the head gasket set the seals came with is now obvious: the set is designed to accomodate several engine types. A small plastic sleeve was provided for the jet valves in the 2.0 engine. Not having jet valves, I do not need the sleeve.

FOR THOSE WITH THE 2.0 JET VALVES:
A racing mechanic told me that the jet valves can be removed and the holes welded shut. The jet valves are more trouble than they're worth. I expect forum experts to correct me if I'm wrong on details such as this, or validate their positive usefulness.

Beginners, such as myself, need to get over a couple psychological blockages: we cling to the book in regards to ordering parts: yes, ours' is a Dodge D-50, but Mitsubishi originally manufactured the vehicles and their engines. It's okay to order Mitsubishi parts instead of looking for D-50parts...in some cases, a better choice is getting the Mighty Max equivelent of D-50 replacements. Funny little glitch, but one I'm sure many have encountered.

An old timer long ago relayed the story of how simple and un-demanding 1930's flat-head engines were. With a rod bearing gone out in the middle of no-where, he dropped the pan and used a piece of raw bacon to fix the bearing long enough to get to the next town. The engines we work on today are a bit more demanding than that, and many of these engines cannot ingest pork products. Turkey bacon does not have the same lubricating properties as pork bacon, so this is a theology issue best addressed on another forum altogether...
Perhaps "Jesus And Lubricants: Is Lucas Oil Kosher?"

_________
EDIT:
One has to wonder why a guy was in the middle of no-where with a package of raw bacon. I'm not even going to speculate on the issue: he's dead, now, probably from eating too much fat and suckin' on Lucky Strikes.

[royster]

I went ahead and installed one seal WITH an "o" ring...not knowing better.

What led me to think the o-rings belonged in there was looking inside the old seals. It appeared they had o-rings. But when a cotton swab was used to clean the inner surface of the old seal, I realised I was seeing oil, not rubber. I then understood that plastic provides the actual seal between the valve stem and flow of oil.

A magnifying glass is extremely usedful in your tool collection...especially if you're getting up on years. Oh no: I'm...I'm...

I'm becoming an and dithering solenoid! GHAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!

[royster]

Having the benefit of a guinea~pig motor, I removed a valve spring from the 2.0 in order to yoink the bottom spring plate (they are the same size). In doing so i saw how the valve seal was situated. After three days of agonizing, I now feel confident that the only thing that matters in installing the seals is that the groove on the valve guide and the ring on the seal fit together. There is some space below the seal once installed...about an 1/8th of an inch...and I realised that the bottom of the seal isn't doing anything: it's the fit into grooves that matters.

I also used one of those Lowe's gift cards to buy a steel sleeve from the 'assortments' drawers. I took a valve seal with me to get an exact match, and will use the sleeve to tap down the seal. I now have a better idea as to when to quit tapping.

I'm going to get the head finished tonight, then my next biggie is to replace the oil pump. And then...wonder of wonders...I'll actually start reassembling the engine. Like so many of you guys here, the truck has been out of service for weeks. I'm pretty damned horny to be driving it again.

A side note: since I was ordering from RockAuto, I went ahead and got an input shaft bearing. Someone (I forget who) recommended it for solving transmission noise. I will have it on hand next time I drop the transmission.