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Thread: Roy's Garage: '90 2.4-4G64 5-spd D-50

  1. #51

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    Having the benefit of a guinea~pig motor, I removed a valve spring from the 2.0 in order to yoink the bottom spring plate (they are the same size). In doing so i saw how the valve seal was situated. After three days of agonizing, I now feel confident that the only thing that matters in installing the seals is that the groove on the valve guide and the ring on the seal fit together. There is some space below the seal once installed...about an 1/8th of an inch...and I realised that the bottom of the seal isn't doing anything: it's the fit into grooves that matters.

    I also used one of those Lowe's gift cards to buy a steel sleeve from the 'assortments' drawers. I took a valve seal with me to get an exact match, and will use the sleeve to tap down the seal. I now have a better idea as to when to quit tapping.

    I'm going to get the head finished tonight, then my next biggie is to replace the oil pump. And then...wonder of wonders...I'll actually start reassembling the engine. Like so many of you guys here, the truck has been out of service for weeks. I'm pretty damned horny to be driving it again.

    A side note: since I was ordering from RockAuto, I went ahead and got an input shaft bearing. Someone (I forget who) recommended it for solving transmission noise. I will have it on hand next time I drop the transmission.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  2. #52

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    I hammered my seals down with the oem tool. You installed them right, the the seals have around 1/8" gap to head. Hurry the heck up

  3. #53


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    You should really twist them down with a little high temp grease in them. If you/whomever took them off with vise grips or ____ and scratched the outer dia of the guide, it can tear the inner part of the rubber seal that's inside the 'cup' and cause a leaky condition.

    If you didn't use the little 'straw' that comes with some kits, you can slightly tear the lip of the seal making it leak from the get-go depending on if there
    was a burr at the valve stem tip. (that's used as a sleeve on the tip as it goes up the guide)

    Just my .02
    E

  4. #54

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    And a valuable 2-cents at that, 77amc. I did in fact dip the seals in Mystery Oil then twisted them down into position. Yes, I used the plastic straw. The intake seals pretty much just snapped into place. The exhaust seals went pretty much on with just hand-pressure once they were lubricated. Gentle tapping insured they were in place. The first one I attempted to install dry WITH an "o" ring.

    So for such a small detail, there are many crucial things to note. Yet the Chilton manual simply says "install the seals". I hope these posts help someone in the future who has no idea HOW to "install the seals".
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  5. #55

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    scan0019.jpg

    There's MORE where THAT came from...


    ...after I finish repairing broken pipes that froze
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  6. #56

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    Very good job!

  7. #57

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    I agree, thanks for providing all the details. One of these days I want to tear into my '94 project truck and your posts are very informative.
    1990 MM 4x4 3.0
    1991 MM 4x4 3.0 Diamonte
    1994 MM 2wd (work in progress)

  8. #58

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    Quote Originally Posted by mylittleshitty View Post
    Very good job!
    Thanks! Those freezing nights I polished on it when I felt like it, in 1/2 hour stints. There was a point I just said "Enough is enough!"

    EYE CANDY Why YES, I DO!

    BELOW: A rear-engine truck? Naw: VW and Corvair did that already.
    scan0020.jpg

    Thought this was a cool shot. Note position of the (pre-surgery) valve seal on the left, and the one on the right: do ya reckon that caused a bit of an oil problem? (photo below)

    scan0022.jpg

    Implements that get me through the night - [not shown: inflatable Julia Child doll with optional attachments]:
    scan0025.jpg

    Cleaning the block with hand cleaner then rinsing, and afterwards. Note catch-pan below engine area:
    scan0023.jpg scan0024.jpg

    How it came together, this morning:
    scan0026.jpg scan0027.jpg

    How I keep it together. (Cylinder head seen is from the 2.0)...
    scan0021.jpg

    And soaking the new hydrolic lifters in a 50/50 solution of Mystery Oil and Trans fluid (by recommendation)
    scan0028.jpg
    Last edited by royster; 01-12-2014 at 02:13 PM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  9. #59

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    Quote Originally Posted by lush90 View Post
    I agree, thanks for providing all the details. One of these days I want to tear into my '94 project truck and your posts are very informative.
    Wow, thanks: I'm really glad to hear that. I will pay-it-forward by thanking the forum for being here: no where else, and no body else would appreciate the sharing, and it GAVE me a place TO share. No one in my real-time life gives a rats' patooki about my truck. So thank YOU people.

    Busy day, today, with this nice break in the weather. Of course, I finished up the camera and had it developed. I also changed the oil in the F-150 after a good flush with Mystery oil and SeaFoam. Then went on to repair busted pipes from the freeze, which means I can wash clothes (and shop rags) again. I tried to order some valve seals from Advance (to replace the two that were damaged) but that would take 4 days. I installed the best I had in the easiest-to-reach positions, should I have to replace them when the 500 mile re-torque comes due, but I'm pretty sure I can get a set from NAPA in a day or so. Likely, they HAVE them at the Winchester warehouse (20 miles away). Starting out, I inadvertantly put an exhaust seal on the intake, so I gently pried it back off and used the right one. Everything went smooth from there. Just to be anal-retentive, I'd like to replace the first one I installed dry. That's 3 on the exhaust side altogether. (I lifted one very gently from the 2.0 and used it on #1 exhaust).

    I also (you knew it would happen) FOUND the missing base pieces among the bags of valve spring components. How I didn't see them after THREE searches is just a testimony to my dithering solenoid.

    Tonight is preparation for installing the oil pump.

    And of course, there's always time for a little pussy...
    scan0005.jpg
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  10. #60

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    A repeat post from Valve Seals 101

    I noted the importance of making sure the seals are well lubricated.
    __________________________________________________ _______
    Take care in removing the old seals: you don't want to damage the valve guide shaft by applying too much pressure or using vice grips that might cause scarring on the surfaces. Those scars become a threat to the new seals when installing them, because they can cut the seal inner surfaces and cause oil leaks.

    "Clean" is always the virtue in engine work. It is self-defeating to allow dirt and yucky grease to contaminate your new parts or girlfriend/boyfriend/faithful dog, and the surfaces they attach to. Steal some of your mother's guest towels and be sure you have plenty of them available to keep your work clean.

    Wiping off the stems where the new seals will sit is important. Especially with the faithful dog.

    For the 2.4, here is the process I used:
    Note there are two different seal-types for exhaust and intake. Intake seals don't have to deal with the higher temperatures that exhaust valves do, so it is important to make sure you place them correctly. An information sheet should have come with your seals/gasket set, telling you which seals go where. Should you have 8 seals of the same type, this is fine. Otherwise, the rubber seals are intake, the brown plastic seals are exhaust.

    You also want to make sure your valves are cleaned up, ready to re-install. Wire brushing carbon deposits off won't hurt the valve, and a Dremel tool with a wire wheel is even better. Using your mother's guest towel, wipe off the whole valve before installing. ASSURE THAT THE SPRING RETAINER GROOVES ARE CLEAN AND FREE OF DIRT.


    . Before sticking ANY lengthy object into a hole, you want lubrication. This is just a fact of Nature. The Church Of The Helgrimites might argue certain details about this and insist on alternative approaches, but few of us live near such churches, so ignore them if they come to your door and tell you dry insertions are a Rite Of Passage...albeit a painful one.

    Attachment 7839

    . Have a "dip" cup handy, like the one above, which is not filled with Merlot wine, but Mystery Oil and transmission fluid. 30-weight oil can work, too. Different mechanics will have different preferrences, such as a white wine or Pilsner beer. Never serve Chablis with cylinder head parts: it's De Glose'.

    . I dipped the end of the valve into the dip cup and then shoved it into position. Whatever romantic words you choose to use are entirely up to you, but as mentioned before, don't "talk dirty". Not yet, anyhow. That can come later, when the valve spring comes flying off the spring-compressor and landing in a different zip code.

    . I then laid the cylinder head flat with a 3/4" socket (on its side) under the just-installed valve's cavity. A short plastic straw should have come with your seal set: this goes over the valve stem itself, all the way down as far as it will go (gently). With needle-nose pliers, I dipped the valve seal entirely in the dip-cup, shook it off (the "more than once" joke applies, here) and carefully lowered it on the shaft. (Is it just me or is it getting HOT in here?) I found, as amc77 suggested, that twisting it downward gave a good result. I also found that sufficient lubrication make tapping the seal into place with a deep socket or sleeve was not necessary, but your experience might be different, particularly if you chose the Chablis. If you can feel a definite "click" when the bottom of the seal is about 1/8" above the cylinder head, the seal is successfully in place. See if you can spin it with your fingers: my experience was the intake seals would spin snuggly, the exhaust seals wouldn't.

    . Don't forget the bottom 'washer' that the valve spring sits on. It keeps the valve spring from digging into the aluminum head as it rotates during operation. This washer fits over the seal so don't panic about not putting it on, first...just make sure it's there before compressing the valve spring and installing it.

    . The valve-spring-keepers should be clean, and I found that handling them with my fingers was fine. With the compressed spring in place, slightly tilting to one side allows you to insert one of the keepers...you might need to push down on the spring a bit (it will compress some more...that's why the 3/4" socket is there: to keep the valve from slipping down). Position the spring around until the keeper is in its groove, then install the second keeper. You'll need to work with each one as it goes, but again, you can push down on the spring to get things into place. Once they are, let off the hand pressure, and pull up a little bit on the valve spring compressor: you should be able to turn the spring freely while the keepers stay in place. If so, loosen the spring compressor untill the assembly is in place and the compressor can be removed.

    . Taking care to remove the 3/4" socket from under the head, either set the cylinder head on wooden blocks (away from the just-installed valve) or off the edge of your workbench (enough for that valve to open and close): what you want to do is allow the valve to open and close without hitting anything below it. I used a few layers of rags to cover the top of the valve, then gave three gentle but firm whacks on the valve. This test will let you know if the keepers are going to stay in place, or if you will only have one eye for the rest of your life. Any variation of this test is probably acceptable, like using a rubber mallet. The objective is to not injur the valve surface or inadvertantly bend the valve itself.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  11. #61

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    Quote Originally Posted by royster View Post
    Any chance I can get away with moving the whole f.i. intake manifold off to the side in one piece, or do I have to really get into breaking this down? (The maniforld is a two-piece component).
    The answer is: how willing are you to do the job right, and discover problems you can't see if you don't take things apart?

    Case In Point: there is a labrynth passage for the EGR valve. This is a little hole you'll see in the intake manifold, and it is likely filled with carbon. By seperating the plenium from the manifold, you see this passage is pretty well blocked up there, too. But when you take the EGR valve off, you can see this is a total of 4 square inches of carbon yuck that disables the EGR to do its job properly. It takes some doing to get that carbon out of the whole passage way AND the EGR valve. The "EG" in that stands for "Exhaust Gas" and it has...wonder-of-wonders...carbon. After 217,037 miles, it has more than just carbon crammed in there. It likely has a good amount of
    hoffa.jpg
    and where they stashed the rest of that guy is anyone's guess, but we HAVE discovered a good quantity of him in our various engine components.

    The EGR affects (among other things) idle and acceleration, and the valve can't detect the vacuum/pressure with all that Jimmy Hoffa particulate in there. The EGR valve channels vaccum to other components when the valve opens. If it can't open...and it has no vacuum to channel...the other components can't operate properly.

    So by having the courage and resolve to clean everything up...not for show, but for good operating function...yes: you have to get into the manifold and clean things up. This is the lesson I learned, and I assure you it is charactor building. Being a Minimalist yeilds minimal (or even negative) results. Going the full distance likely translates your TRUCK will give YOU "the full distance" when the temperature guage says "normal", the CD player is thumping sweet and you're passing Yugos with a happy heart.

    I started out hoping for a "quick-and-dirty" repair. I found, in true honesty, the repair has to be done with attention and care in order for the whole of the project to be satisfying. Yes: it will take more time, but it will also eliminate many problems that would crop up later. I don't WANT my D-50 parked on jack stands all the time. Once you get your little truck thoroughly serviced, then you are free to play with it. But to just slap a band-aid on the valve cover is not what these trucks want, and they won't let you get away with that.

    The other point is: having gone this deep, I can't turn my head and pretend I don't see these problems or needs. They are, after all, in many respects, opportunities to correct future glitches, and also enhance the operation of the whole system. I had a fear of getting into something I knew nothing about. I realised I have the benefit of the Chilton book, and the resources of this forum. There are your "support group", and it's okay to get deep. We'll all pitch in to help you through, and once you're done, you KNOW that much more about your little truck. Wasn't that the whole idea? It was (and is) for me.

    If your human head is congested, hockin' loogers isn't enough: you gotta blow your nose, too. The truck's resporation system is much the same: one glogged nostril is annoying. You can pick your friends, and you can pick your nose, and you can pick the attitude of doing the job thoroughly.

    Or have a bugered-up engine.

    ________________________________
    Case In Point: there is a labrynth passage for the EGR valve.
    When you take your EGR off, you'll see a passageway that goes down to meet the intake manifold. It has a tunnel there, too, and another tunnel across the cylinder head, where it terminates in #4 exhaust chamber. There is no valve or moving part: this tunnel is open all the way to the EGR on the engine. The tunnel is subjected to the exhaust and pressure of all 4 cylinders. And there's no way for normal operation to clean it, so far as I know. The carbon is worse for trucks like mine, that were burning lots of oil. The passageways get clogged, and the EGR no longer works as it should...if at all.

    I'm not sure what to offer you as a remedy for this problem, unless you keep an interveinious feed of Seafoam into the passageway and hope it works like Draino, eventually. Perhaps one of the experts can offer advice, but for me, tearing down the head was a blessing is disguise.
    Last edited by royster; 01-14-2014 at 05:04 PM. Reason: To correct EGR information
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  12. #62

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    I ordered new valve seals through the local NAPA store. (Advanced could only offer delivery in 4 days. Napa is getting them here overnight). I had to order the whole set, but they aren't expensive, and now that I understand the procedure, I want to go back and assure the whole installation is correct.

    This is SO much like sex: about the time you get the hang of it, you're finished.

    So I spent yesterday doing some clean-up and organizing, as well as some gratuitous polishing on the aluminum engine parts...like the thermostat housing, before I put a new thermostat in it. I also spent time and focus on cleaning the EGR valve, then testing it. It works just fine.

    For those in the midst of a similar project, or future members who undergo this type of surgery: the head gasket set includes ALL the nit-picky gaskets you'll need to thoroughly tear down components like the thermostate housing, and the housing IT sits on. I have a choice of TWO EGR gaskets. New rubber rings for the distributor. Just about everything I need to tear down and clean up (though I was willing to make gaskets if need be).

    And I got the cheaper of the sets: get the few-bucks-more set and it will include the timing cover dust seal, which I have been unable to find seperately.

    As I said earlier, when this project if finished, I'll post a comprehensive report with photos and a clear thread title: it will surely help others. Because I do not have a digital camera, I can't post immediately the tasks I'm conducting, or the details people like Fordubishi point out regarding timing marks etc..
    ________________________________


    THE GREAT ZOOKINI PREDICTS
    zookini.jpg

    Taking the time to do a job well will reward you with more than good results. It gives personal satisfaction. It may possibly prevent you from having to convert a popcorn booth into a fortune-teller box and then sitting in it, hoping cheap people will put quarters in it. [Gawd, the air in here is horrid!]
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  13. #63

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    I'VE GOT AN ARM AND A LEG IN PARTS FOR THIS TRUCK!!!

    scan0034.jpg

    BELOW: As you can see by the tuna can, this engine has been smoking.

    scan0035.jpg

    So I spent yesterday doing some clean-up and organizing, as well as some gratuitous polishing on the aluminum engine parts...like the thermostat housing, before I put a new thermostat in it.
    Well, okay: maybe approaching "obsessive"...

    scan0036.jpg scan0037.jpg
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  14. #64

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    The EGR affects (among other things) idle and acceleration, and the valve can't detect the vacuum/pressure with all that Jimmy Hoffa particulate in there.
    scan0039.jpg

    HUGE THANKS TO FORDUBISHI: Here is the timing mark on the head (my emphasis).

    scan0038.jpg
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  15. #65

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    View from the driver's seat...(note muddy cat-paw-prints on windsheild. There's NO keeping a vehicle clean around here).
    scan0040.jpg

    Today was an absolute clean up and re-group: the top-end phase is over and now the truck goes up on jacks. The kerosene heater was moved into the corner and workbench cleared for the oil pump part of the journey. From there, the timing belts get replaced and the re-assembly begins.
    scan0041.jpg

    For 20-some years this garage was impossible to work in during winter, and besides: it had a dirt floor. I worked out of it, nonetheless, and in this first year of operation after renovation, this is an absolute joy to be in, because I certainly have something to compare it to. I often think, as well, that because of the garage renovation, the kittens showed up. Now they keep me company while good music plays and I fuss with my little truck, learning every day.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  16. #66

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    royster your posts are Always Fun to read !
    Keep Them Coming !
    (and say "Hi" to the kitties for me)

  17. #67

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    Thank you so very much, OG.

    I'm happy to announce that the oil pan is dropped and the sump is out: both are immaculately cleaned, ready to go back in. No terrible news from "down under" - there was some metalic silt (to be expected) but no bolts, pistons or parts of New Jersey in the oil.

    I took a break at 8:15 PM (my time) for a sandwich, and to feed the wood stove back at the house. The oil pump assembly comes out next, once the Spacely Space Sprockets (roh ray, Rorge) and silent shaft ("Shut yo' mouff!" "But I'm talkin' 'bout SHAFT!" "Then we can dig it!") cogs come off. I'll take the opportunity to do some cleaning detail that would otherwise be inaccessible.

    Oil pan came off without raising the engine, and it had been sealed only with silcone caulking: no gasket.

    Oil pan was a B+ITCH until I saw that last bolt I didn't see before. Amazing what one bolt will hold...sort of like paint holding a wall cabinet on a kitchen wall. (No, I didn't bend the pan).
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  18. #68

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    I'm understanding WHY they call it a "silent shaft"...it's 'cause NO ONE IS FREAKIN' TALKLING ABOUT IT. AT ALL.

    Not one mention of it in the book (which is, by the way, a Haynes and NOT a Chilton: the Chilton is for my F-150. Sucks dyslexia you if got it).

    So there was absolutely NO WARNING that the driver-side silent shaft was going to come out with the oil pump. It reminds me of that scene in "The Fly". Wasn't expecting that. But worse, the pump has to be further unbolted to liberate the silent shaft. WTF? And there is NO information about how to get that cap off, that covers the silent shaft's bolt...you know, the bolt you can't see, and the one no one tells you about?

    Well, I'M talking about it, see? I'm not remaining silent about the silent shaft. What is that thing, the Illuminatti of the 4-cylinder engines? Gotta know the secret hand~shake and passwords? Jeeznee peeznee criminy CRIPES JeesoFLIP.

    So how does one go about getting that flat, cog-looking cover off the silent shaft nut-house? It doesn't turn, it doesn't pop out, and I can't figure out how to get the darned thing to move, but if I don't have it, gawd knows what will happen. It obviously seals oil.

    This is horrid, to be this far and suddenly be stumped by something even simpler than a valve seal. NOTHING in the book. Period.

    Help. Help help help helphelphelp, please...

    EDIT:
    A search brought this up http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...mination-2-0-L

    I asume this HAS to be the same for a 2.4? Use a punch and tap it counter-clockwise?

    The worst part of this is the old pump looks to be in very good condition. Several select cuss words would be expressive here, but I have to acknowledge that the experience isn't gained any other way. And with the oil pan off, I was able to look up my engine's dress. Woo hoo! Good stuff in there, buddy! I aughta take pictures for lonely nights.

    EDIT #2
    Obsessed as I am at times, I went over to the garage and used a nail-set: sure enough, it came off. Thanks to camoit, whose post helped on this...and has great pictures.

    Speaking of pictures, I got some more to post, but tomorrow: it's 1:00 AM, here, and I'm tired.

    But I am now officially at THE turning point: it's all re-assembly, now...unless the silent shaft squeals like a stoolie. It would be just like it to sing like a bird and spill the beans. (And we wonder why Americans are so hard to understand...)
    Last edited by royster; 01-15-2014 at 10:09 PM.
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  19. #69

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    Camoit provides great pictures for this operation at the link I posted above. The book is not clear on any such detail, and for the first-time mechanic, this information...like the valve seals...will likely be helpful to know. [Photo below by camoit, with much appreciation]
    DSCN4906.JPG
    One thing I noticed about the new oil pump is that (on the work bench) it doesn't rotate clockwise. The balance shaft has to be in for it to turn in the right direction. This is likely one reason we are cautioned to NOT rotate the engine counter-clockwise...I'll post later once I have finished this phase (or experts can add their 2-cents).

    Another tip I might pass along to the newbee is: in any repair to your truck, spend a few dollars more and get the good gasket sets and/or kits: they will include detail items you aren't expecting to need (but will). A good example is the 'o' ring that seals the very cap I was complaining about: it's in the oil pump kit. The cheaper kit only has minimal gaskets, and you'll either end up with more delays because you have to order more stuff, or make your own. I have posted the example about the good head gasket set which includes the timing cover seals, whereas the cheaper ones don't, and you can't find that part seperately. Another example is the timing belt kits: for a few dollars more, get the one with the new tensioners, not just the belts. The old tensioner might seem okay, but they're like teenagers: once tha parents leave the house for a PTA meeting, those kids are going to party and get into mischeif. And tensioners are extremely important, so you don't want one seizing up a few miles down the road...if the bearings in them give up their service, you'll be ordering plenty more parts.

    Camoit points out the importance of new seals, and there again, the kit I got has the seals already installed in the oil pump. When you order parts, click-to-enlarger the picture. Take a good look at what comes with the kit. An illustration of "buyer beware" is very clear in the Weber carborator thread, where lots of fake copies are offered with deceptive referrences, and guys are out hundreds of dollars because the carborators are junk. The same goes for the parts you order: take the time to make sure you're getting everything you need. I've been lucky in working with my D-50, but the temptation has been there to take the cheaper route. Twice, now, I've been glad I ordered the next-best up, rather than the bare-bones offering. From here on out, I know to get at least the better (as opposed to 'standard') part, kit or gaskets. Since I'm not rebuilding this engine yet, I have no need for the ultimate~best kits offered: I just want to keep my truck running and on the road. The experience I'm gaining now will be very valuable when that rebuild time comes around.

    Installing this new oil pump was a willingness to go the full distance, and while the old pump likely was fine, I have the hands-on experience of getting the engine this far down, and this is valuable information for a truck I intend to service myself for as long as I have it. In the first weeks of owning my D-50, I relied on a mechanic to work on the truck. Hind-sight shows he knew very little about Mitsubishi engines or their quirks. In addressing the smoking problem, he recommended a total engine flush and "miracle product" remedy...which now I recognise as likely a Seafoam procedure. So he knew nothing about the valve seals going bad, and like myself, saw 217,000 miles on the odometer and figured it was rings. I don't hold this against him, knowing now what I do about the 2.4. And as this thread reveals, NOBODY would have known about the displaced valve guides without getting into the engine as I have done. It would have been impossible to see without the valve cover off, and even then, only in removing the valve springs did I see the true nature of this truck's smoking problem. I cite an earlier post which exposes my reluctance to really get serious about the engine:

    Any chance I can get away with moving the whole f.i. intake manifold off to the side in one piece, or do I have to really get into breaking this down? (The maniforld is a two-piece component).
    I answered my own question, in doing the work, and a few posts later. I also share about the clogged EGR passages, and only by the tear-down did I reveal that problem, and have the access to fix it properly. I years ago quit believing in "miracle products", with very few exceptions, Seafoam being one of them. Our society is very much the same way: we have horrible problems we're trying to pacify with "miracle product" approaches, when we really need to stop and deal with the core causes. And we need to do this just like we repair these engines: we can't use old knowledge or experience to address something we know very little about...and we will continue to know very little about it until we become willing to go the full distance for satisfying resolves.

    Speaking of old knowledge: an old timer years ago said mechanics kept a pair of panty hose in the trunk of their car. If a fan belt broke, the panty hose could be wrapped around the pulleys, tightened and knotted, the excess cut off, and this would be enough to run the water pump until you got into the next town.

    Frankly, I'm starting to wonder about these old timers.

    They were running around these back-roads with raw bacon and panty hose in their trunks. What other filthy little secrets will be revealed about them?


    Time will tell. Oh yes: it will spill the beans, squeal like a stooly and sing like a bird.
    Last edited by royster; 01-16-2014 at 08:30 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  20. #70

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    Pause for intermission

    This photo shows my little refrigerator where sodas and sandwich components are kept. ALWAYS use a sandwich gasket with mayonaise sealant and mustard lubrication.
    scan0050.jpg

    The upholstery attachment for my rug~sucker got the headliner cleaned up remarkably well (photo from October). Note I cut the rear view mirror and installed an after-market glass-attached mirror.
    scan0049.jpg

    The parts truck outside the garage. This little guy has been so valuable for what I learned from dismantling it. It also was helpful in referring to some placements..."When in doubt, look at the other one."
    scan0051.jpg


    Before and after...and continuing to evolve
    scan0004.jpg scan0005.jpg

    When I went to install my pre-amp, I found brackets already there to bolt into. I have since learned that this was for hanging the optional air conditioning unit. I can say, in all honesty, I have a well-hung pre-amp.
    scan0002.jpg
    Last edited by royster; 01-16-2014 at 09:43 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  21. #71

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    Oil Pump Replacement - details

    The book instructs you to remove the cap from the pressure releif valve and remove the plunger and spring. (This is that part where the oil filter goes. It is a seperate piece from the oil pump plate, but must be removed in order to get the plate off. I say "plate" for want of a better word. Suffice it to say it's the alluminum front of the engine with the oil pump attached to it). I was unable to get anything to loosen the cap (22 mm cresent, open end ONLY, and I couldn't find mine). I just left it on until the unit came off from the engine. I used a socket wrench to remove it. Apparently this is okay, because the book's instructions for reinstall are rather casual. I assume the primary point is to inspect the inside of the plunger area. Certainly my engine had no pressure to worry about.

    The left side (as you're facing the engine) silent shaft gear must be removed. The book offers no clever means to do so. For the curious: there are two screws on that left side, neither of them helps you hold the shaft while you're loosening the nut. They actually peer into the silent shaft's bearings. With no other means of getting my nut off, I used channel locks with a rag to protect the gear. Even at that, I ended up using the Dremel tool to de-bur some marks on the gear.

    In replacing the gear, since the oil pan is off, I can reach up through the engine and jam the shaft...(does all this talk make anyone else horny? There sure are a lot of male-arousing words going on...) in a similar way to the right side. The right side shaft has a bona-fide bolt you remove to access the shaft. That bolt is just aft of the starter motor, about the same height.

    Speaking of that right-hand side shaft: know that you can remove that plate in front of the hidden bolt, remove the bolt, and the silent shaft will remain in the block. (See photo provided by camoit). The right-hand shaft has only one bearing: the left side has two.

    I have opted to set gaskets with silicone gasket sealer on the oil pan, oil pump plate, the sump connection and the oil filter holder before installing them. Allowed to cure sufficient time means I won't be fussing with gaskets falling off as I try to install stuff. I made use of the drying time to clean surfaces and some detail cleaning in the engine bay.

    Once the oil pump is re-installed, and the oil pan replaced, it's time to put the silent shaft belt on, and assure the timing of the engine.
    You NEED to ground the timing adjustment wire near the firewall to set the timing correctly, this tells the ECU not to change the timing, allowing you to set the base timing.
    ~Komeuppance


    It is then a big moment in my pathetic life: installing the cylinder head, cam and rockerarm assembly. I am going to agonize every millimeter of the way to make sure the timing is as perfect as I can get it.
    Last edited by royster; 01-30-2014 at 05:51 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  22. #72

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    . oil pump installed
    . sump installed, oil pan installed
    . dampener pulley back on, so I could...
    . replace transmission dust sheild
    . silent shaft (B) belt installed, absolutely sure of correct timing
    . oil pump and silent shaft synced, s. shaft bolted and capped
    . belt tensioner in and at the ready
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  23. #73

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    Getting My Head Together

    I've been threatening to do that for many years. There was always some voice that assured me continuing to be stupid was beneficial.

    2nvy0w4.jpg

    What a great day in my obscure and occassionally abstract life: the cylinder head goes on! I'm in no hurry to start the engine up, so I'm not pushing myself to have it running by tonight. I'm taking my time.

    But the repair has a really good feel to it, and having taken the time to clean the engine compartment was not only satisfying, it made putting the oil pan back on less messy. I was able to reach through the cross brace without soaking my arm in grease. Though I have no running water in the garage, I DO have a yard sprayer that I fill with hot tap water from the house, and I keep a kettle on the kerosene stove...you never know when Julia Child's ghost might show up and want tea...
    scan0026.jpg
    ...and boiling hot water is great for cleaning parts or spiking the temperature of the sprayer water.

    Since I have that nice big plastic drip pan (they sell them with rollers...supposedly for storing things under your bed, which is BAD Feng Shui) I decided it was a good time to clean the A-frames and front wheel components: my next task is to rebuild the brakes, and working with clean parts helps tremendously. Getting the truck to move forward comes before concerns about getting it to stop.

    A note about service prep: I removed the wheels and the front bumper for this repair. It was worth the few minutes to take them off, as it makes access so much easier. I was able to sit on a box in front of the engine, and read it bed-time stories and chat about current events. With a little sippy~cup, I was able to give the truck hot chocolate and Mai Tai's with little umberellas. We even played a few games of Scrabble, and I let Pony win, because spelling is not a strong point of Mitsubishi engines.
    In the scheme of my D-50 story, I had stopped driving the truck because the passenger-side caliper was locking up. I didn't want to stress the drive train or engine, so I had it parked until I could locate brake parts. While waiting, I would start it up occassionally. Starting it up one very cold day the timing belt stripped. Though the truck hasn't moved but some 500 feet in the past month, it has taken me on one of the most meaningful journeys of my life.

    And once it's purring happily, no doubt it will help me on my journey to get my head together.


    fixit.jpg
    Last edited by royster; 01-17-2014 at 07:09 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  24. #74

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    Not to be long~winded, but I wanted to take the time to acknowledge a Beginning in my life
    scan0019.jpg

    She showed up while I was rebuilding the garage, and died before it was finished. She left me the three most precious things her life could have produced. It's amazingly like 'Charlott's Web'.
    scan0020.jpg

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mbqQxhp3PB8
    Last edited by royster; 01-17-2014 at 08:15 AM.
    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

  25. #75

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    The greatest gift you have to give to the world is that of your own self~transformation.

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