Roy's Garage: '90 2.4-4G64 5-spd D-50

[Redneckmoparman]

I would unplug the distributor on the firewall and crank it over to prime the pump and get oil circulating just use the key and crank it over for about 30sec id say at least twice it wolnt hurt the starter and if you pull the spark plugs so it can turn over faster without compression it can build a little more pressure

[royster]

I am so grateful for your suggestion, RNMM. I had thought to do something like that, but had no way to verify its sanity. I'll go ahead and do that. I had also thought to simply remove the fuel pump fuse during that process...I have fuel in the lines and fuel rail. While the intake was off, I kept Seafoam in the fuel line.

Also, you experts can validate this observation or dismiss it: I noticed that the coolant temperature sensor sits low in the thermostat housing. The thermostat has an off-center positioning...sort of like a fried egg...and the housing has a beveled bottom. I figured that the thermostat needs to open on the lower end or it will hit the sensor prong, preventing the thermostat from fully opening. Not sure this is true, but if it is, this would cause the engine to run hotter than necessary. There is a little "air valve" at the 'top' of the thermostat (as it should be placed when installing) that indicates to me the proper positioning of the whole unit. Again, the frikkin' book says nothing about this. But by observing the sensor's placement (top of the thermostat housing) and the thermostat itself, this is what I concluded. I positioned it in the way that made the most sense.

EDIT: Thanks to Komeuppance:

your thermostat orientation is correct with the bleed valve at the top, the sensor in the housing will not obstruct it from opening all the way.

It is true that I'm down to small details, but I forgot to mention the radiator needs to go in. I'll put it in last, as the open front of the engine bay lets me see what I'm doing straightforward instead of bending over. I want to back-flush the radiator before re-installing it: Jimmy Hoffa gets around.

Thanks again, RedneckMoparMan. Having some input during this last phase gives me some confidence.

[royster]

I want to back-flush the radiator before re-installing it: Jimmy Hoffa gets around.

For all the fliters and monitors cars have, there is no water filter or any real means of keeping the cooling sytem clean. While you have your radiator out, the opportunity is there to not only back-flush, but clean the coolant fin system. A hand-held shower head is great for this task, especially if you can conduct this task in the bathtub or shower stall. Heck, you might want to get naked and take a shower WITH your radiator...a few candles and some mood music might show your truck you care...intimately.

But if you're not into heavy-metal sex, then you'll just want to get some hot water flowing from the bottom out the top (turning the radiator upside down) and watch all the crap that comes out. When you lose a sock while doing laundry, and can't find it, you'll discover it somehow ended up in your radiator. Why not? It's a perfect hiding place, because no one ever pays attention to it.

Nice hot water back flushing, then spray the fins from the engine-side: all those years, the air flow through the radiator has wedged dust and insects...some of which have since become extinct...and spraying in the reversal of that air flow will dislodge all those hippy squatters residing in the most important part of your radiator.

I do not recommend using a brush or anything else but water pressure to back flush the fins, though some mild cleaner spray won't hurt. Oven cleaner is NOT an option.

Back in the days when real brass radiators could be fixed and rebuilt, I was told by a radiator-shop guy that there is no need to paint the radiator: the paint acts as insulation and retains just that much more heat. I have opted to actually polish the brass, as real metal radiators are...as Barbie says..."like...fer sher...SOOOOOoo '80's!!" Barbie technically is having an affair with her brother, so I don't listen to her.

I was not too surprised by the rust and gunkus-funkus-ola (ewww!) that flushed out of my radiator: rust had been evident when the cap was removed while the truck was in service. I tried to back-flush the heater core, but apparently there is a one-way valve inside where I couldn't get to. Hopefully the cooling system is mostly clear of particulate and during the course of operation, any residual gunkocity will de-funkify.

RADIATORS: WATER YOU WAITING FOR?

Radiator Trivia

The same guy who carried raw bacon and panty hose in his trunk also kept a can of black pepper. If the radiator sprung a leak, pepper added to the radiator would expand while circulating...you see Arnald Schwartanegger doing this all the time...and if the leak was not too big, the pepper would plug the leak. It caused the engine to smell like beef jerky, but it got you into town where they sell fresh bacon and fish-net panty hose for that REAL party Leonardo DiCaprio promises to take you to.
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For the intial start up and test-run, I'm going to run straight water. It's not that I have anything against bi-sexual or gay water, it's just that straight water will give an additional flush when the engine checks out and gets shut off. After insuring there are no leaks, I will drain the water, then add the proper mix of coolant. Should there be a leak, I don't have to worry about anti-freeze dripping on the floor when the cats might be prone to lap it up. I try to be very careful about that.
____________________
I want to take this time to say a hello to Lee, who visits this site and keeps up with my progress. Lee is a member of my web-sites and a very good friend. His son is not only an expert on these small engines, but is actively looking for a D-50 because he loves them.

So...HI LEE! Thanks for watching out for me.

[royster]

I cranked the engine quite a bit without the ignition connected, but the oil light remained on. I cranked several times for about 10 seconds each time. As the view into the rockerarms is limited to one rockerarm assembly, I can't tell for sure plenty of oil is getting up there. I'm in panic mode.

I went ahead and installed plugs and cranked it up. It started almost immediately, though a very slow idle....struggling yet determined. It didn't run too long, and again I looked in the valve cover and was a bit stressed by the absense of plenty of oil.

I'm going to take the valve cover off and see if I have oil up there. If I don't, I have no idea what to do next: there is no information readily available to me.

[royster]

Apollogies for the panic attack: everything turned out fine.

It started quicker when I advanced (or retarded) the distributor, so I'm not sure if I'm one tooth off on the distributor, but I think the timing could be better.
EDIT: Thanks to Komeuppance:

...are you able to set your distributor near the middle of it's adjustment range after you retimed the belts?? If it needs to use all the adjustment up one way, you are one tooth off with the belt. You NEED to ground the timing adjustment wire near the firewall to set the timing correctly, this tells the ECU not to change the timing, allowing you to set the base timing. Having the cam timing off, or the ignition timing off will make it slow.

I have a seriously ticky lifter, and I have to assume I installed a hydrolic lifter upside-down. Comments welcome. As there is no adjustment on this engine for rockerarms, it's all IN the lifter, and these are new. My intention is to remove the valve cover and inspect them, but tomorrow: this is enough for one day.

NOW THE GOOD NEWS
Once I was confident the oil was getting through, I started the truck up and let it get to operating temperature. The warmer it got, the better it ran...getting its "sea-legs" after sitting for so long, and the battery disconnected, I assume the electronics have to re-callibrate themselves. I was hoping the lifter would pump up, but it didn't.

Even in its rough-tuned state, it still starts with a bump of the key. There was ONE tear~drop leak from the water pump...where I forgot to tighten the alternator bracket bolt that goes through the water pump. Everything else is wonderful. The engine has a good smell to it. There was very little smoke when it started up, and none as it ran. The worst smoke was actually paint burning off the heat sheild: that "high heat" paint obviously isn't meant for that high of a heat. I'll let it burn off and chalk it up to experience.

I drained the water/radiator flush and was happy to see very little crap come out. I refilled the water system with coolant and let it get back up to running temperature so it could mix real well: tonight it's supposed to get down to 19 degrees and I don't want to take any chances.

There was an internal backfire when I gunned the motor, which leads me to think the timing is off at the distributor by a tooth. I could really use some expert advice on that. As the distributor is all the way to one side of its possible travel, I tend to think the tooth thing, but I don't know for sure. [SEE ABOVE EDIT NOTE]

So tomorrow I'll take the valve cover off and see what's what in there. Is it possible to remove the rocker arm assembly without removing the cam, or will the cam come up and whomp me on my stubborn head once the bearing are loosened?

Once the engine has a good bill of health, I'll procede to the disc brake problem. Soon enough I'll be driving my Little Tin Can, but for today, it was wonderfult to hear him run again.

He gets to live in the garage for the Winter.

Also, I went to have photos developed but the one-hour machine was broken, so it will be Tuesday before I can post pictures, but I got some good ones.

[royster]

Does anything happen at 150 posts?

EDIT:

Apparently so.

*royster has reached 150 posts!* 07:48 PM

Oh...and I'm a senior, now.

Great: another reminder

[lush90]

You're really getting to know that truck! Sounds like great progress!

[royster]

Thanks lush90. It's been quite journey.


Anyone got good information about proper timing belt tension? Is the tensioner, alone, the only pressure or do you push the tensioner to tighten the belt a little more? I don't want to over-tighten the belt.

[royster]

Anyone got good information about proper timing belt tension? Is the tensioner, alone, the only pressure or do you push the tensioner to tighten the belt a little more? I don't want to over-tighten the belt.

THANKS (as always) TO BRADMPH - this video showed me a couple of things I did wrong. Since I have to remove the valve and timing cover again, I'll be certain to follow these instructions.

Even at this, there is still no focus on the tensioner, but I get a better idea. I'm sure I'm not the only one who gets hung~up on small details like this.

Timing Belt Replacement & Distributor Reinstallation G63B
Video shows an install of a timing belt and the re-installation of the distributor.
Shows all the time mark line ups on the gears and housing and the positioning markings on distributor
to place it into position correctly.

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...tallation-G63B

[royster]

jonah was
swallowed by
a whale

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[royster]

The oil sump and pan, clean...oil sump installed

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Putting it all together

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So odd to see the truck like this.
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But it's all back together and ready for the road.

This project is finished.

[rusty bishi]

lol..give me a hand would ya.

[pennyman1]

I would have commented more but I have no experience with the 4g64 to add to you work. I live in the carb world of Ram 50 MMM.

[rusty bishi]

I am no expert by any means,but I can say that looks like a MIGHTY fine job,pun intended.lol I too went into my mighty max with absolutely no knowledge of these trucks.one thing I learned is pull it out ,tear it down,see what broke! actually that's 3 things.

[Redneckmoparman]

yeah it seems all the knowledgable guys here are 1gn carb guys so were kinda left high and dry to learn with eachother on our modern technology but you've done great! and with a killer write up and good pictures that should help everybody learn what to do and what not to do

[BradMph]

We are carb guys cause we bought the trucks when you all were making googly eyes at your babysitters. lol. Pennyman has owned his truck since the time they had Fred Flintstone rock wheels on trucks and you stomped your foot on the road to stop the darn thing.

[royster]

Humble bow, and thanks all. What I feel is that I do have a nitch on this forum, for exactly that which is missing. I was NEVER good at carboration, and fuel injection is new to me, but by getting my hands into it, I'm learning.

What I plan to do is write a couple threads exclusively instructional, based on my experience (I have more photos coming), specific to tasks. And the thread titles will be clear so future lost souls can get their hands on it. Who's gonna think to look for clutch replacement tips on a thread titled "Having Trouble, Hemorrhoids Too" ? Or cyclinder head work on "Bad Meth Made Me Do This" ?

It is very satisfying to be at the pause point where I walk around and wipe off little smudges with a clean rag, stereo playing and cats purring. And it won't last long: brakes are next, but I want to bask in the acheivement...and sharing...as long as I can

[royster]

Three inches of snow this morning. I went out to start the truck and let it get up to operating temperature. I am continuing to monitor for leaks. There's only one, a tiny drop of what appears to be coolant, in a rather fickle place. It's on the firewall, passenger side of the head, but above the head gasket, and just below some bolt or plug. So it's not coming from the head gasket. Other than that, I am so happy to report no other leaks of any kind.

I get some smoke on start-up, but not a lot. The engine is breaking in to its rebuild (as it were) pretty good, though I wish I could take it out and put it through its paces. Snow and locked brakes won't allow this, and I tend to not argue with God's Plan. With kerosene going for $4.00 a gallon, and temps forecast to be below freezing the rest of the week, I'm prone to give it all a rest, for now.

But we all KNOW about truck~addiction.

The most noise the truck makes when its running is the input bearing on the transmission...or whatever noice that is. It's done it ever since I've had it.

I'm running 10-40 oil (or there-abouts) for now. I'll confess that I added about 3 ounces of Lucas oil stablizer...hopefully enough to quiet the last of the lifter noise, and perhaps minimize the start-up smoke. The oil dipstick reads a little over full...I probably added a half quart or so more than "max" when I originally put the engine back together. Not sure how much that affects the smoking.

'Gonna put the F-150 in 4x4 and go get film developed for posting this afternoon.

RockAuto sent me a discount code. I feel so privelaged

[royster]

Photo Finish

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Ready to close the hood and call it a day.
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View of the house from the garage, just this morning. I bet an old guy is taking an afternoon nap in there with three contented cats while the snow falls.
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[lush90]

Wow, it looks so clean I'd feel guilty getting it dirty. Great job! The snow, while it creates a few headaches, sure looks nice for this time of year.

[royster]

Thanks, L90. I already considered the need for "acceptance" that the engine will get dirty. I'll probably never have the chance again to do so much cleaning and care to detail. As Spring arrives, my focus will turn to the paint job: half the truck was repaired at one time and the paint doesn't match.

It's a project truck, those things will happen. But no point in a project truck that doesn't run. First things first, as they say.

We've had 8" of snow, now, and garage activity is out of the question. Got plenty to do in the house, and since I was out earlier, I'm prepared to hunker down for a few days. The mountain-ish backroads to get in here are very treacherous in these conditions, even for a sure-footed F-150.

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[royster]

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I had bought a grille from a parts truck for my F-150, but found out the one I already had was better. So I made this appropriate-for-a-garage art display out of it. The "headlights" are 1949 Dodge pickup truck half-moon hubcaps. I've had the "Tom Sawyer" plates since the '90's, in various incarnations.

The D-50 parts truck had a nearly-pristine grille, and I now have that on Pony. The old grille will take it's place on the opposite wall where I currently have a graphic I made for that space.

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I mentioned, early on, that the board against the wall above the kerosene heater is a flip down table. In the photo to the right, the table is seen on top of my table saw. I removed the table saw for this project. That's Pollux sleeping on the table, when she was a kitten.

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[royster]

This morning, just before I closed the garage, I took a last look. It's going to be a while until I get out there again: there's no fighting 4-degree nights and 17 degree days with a mere kerosine heater.

I really enjoyed my nights out there, working on the truck. This view shows the parts truck gathering snow, and Pony tucked in for a Winter's rest.
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[royster]

Yesterday at Lowe's I spotted a VersaRack in the bargain bin for $100. I snatched it up without too much hesitation: this will allow me to carry my
24' ladder on the D-50. It's just the sides and cross members...none of the attachments seen on this ad photo, but these racks retail for $300. It was "missing bolts"...which they sell very cheaply over in the hardware aisle.

Score!

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[Redneckmoparman]

When does it smoke? Startup? When you give it throttle? On deaccel? These can tell you whats wrong. startup is valve stem and also deaccel if its on accel its rings thats IF its blue smoke white smoke is water or coolant and that can tell me different things