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Thread: The Resurrection of Ol' Dirty Blue...My Build Thread

  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ram50-Newb View Post
    Hey Brad - So wait, an engine is not a grill? So I shouldn't be cooking hotdogs and hamburgers on it?
    I BEG TO DIFFER!!?!?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_Rch0ND4n8
    ...bet it has that nice smoky Garrett flavour too
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  2. #27

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    Update: So I pulled the truck out of the garage and rev'd it at 2000+ RPMs for about a minute and then let it sit. After about 3 minutes the black smoke stopped.

    I decided to take a for a little spin around the yard, and attempted to climb a sloping side of the yard. It went until the whole truck was on the incline and then stopped. I gave it a little more gas and no movement. So Yesterday I rechecked compression all 4 cylinders run around 150 PSI. Check the transmission fluid, everything seems good. Attempted the same climb again and the same result. This time I hit the accelerator a little harder and saw grass and mud flying by the window. Since the bed is not on the truck, I thought maybe the rear end is too light. So I stuck in 4L and up we went. I think there is still some tuning needed on the Carb, because she does smoke a bit (black) when I'm pushing it over 2000 RPMs under load. But for now, my focus is moving to the interior.

    Pulled the bench seat out and plan on working on re-upholstering it due to wear and tears. More to follow.

  3. #28

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    It's alive - awesome What is the fuel like (I mean is it fresh and what RON is it?) and how is the engine running in general? For it to stumble off throttle it may be getting a gut full of fuel. I ran into this tonight so it might be worth a read - http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Troubleshooting.htm (some pretty useful info in there)
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  4. #29

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    Geezer - So the fuel is mostly fresh, it has a small amount of old fuel (less than 1/2 Gal.) in the tank. So about 2 weeks ago I got 5 Gallons of 93 Octane with Sta-Bil Marine to help with the Ethanol mix. The engine runs good at idle, or low load. When I put in 4WD, she has some umph, but when letting off the throttle she tends to bog and die; did it twice today. In 2WD with the same activity, no issues.

    What is the best fuel PSI I should have at the Carb? I have the regulator set to 2 PSI currently. I believe the mixture screw is currently at 1 turn out from bind.

    Thanks for the link. I've been looking at Top End Performance Carb Tuningl.

  5. #30

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    The fuel pressure shouldn't exceed 3.5 psi at open throttle. Seems to be the max pressure most of the low pressure/high volume electric pumps deliver. At this point I'm not sure what to suggest you try next. I would be thinking about having a few extra gauges in the truck - vacuum and EGO meter. Big vacuum will change fuel delivery the same as idle rejetting depending on the engine. There is some really helpful info in that link above so it could become a permanent resource for later reference. And that link confirms my theory - the 32/36 will not let an engine make more than 125HP max. You want to go beyond that then the 38DGES is the go to carb for a downdraft application. Good find!
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  6. #31

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    So just wanted to share. Ol' Blue has passed inspection and is road worthy, as of yesterday. I think I'll still need some tuning for better fuel economy. But for now it's all good. Special thanks to all of you for every bit of information on this forum. FYI, the issues above were corrected after removing the pressure regulator - which many of you recommend in other posts. Next items on the docket body work and paint job.

  7. #32

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    ^^^
    Excellent !!!
    Looking forward to pics !!

  8. #33


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    Ram50-Newb

    Look what your truck photos did to my eyes..!

    IC you did an electric fan; does it help..? -- I wanna try that too... Can't figure out what fan to buy though...

  9. #34

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    Hey xbox. Sorry for the delayed response. I can't tell you if the electric fan performs better, because Ol' Blue was barely running when I inherited him. Since I wasn't very mechanically inclined it was a simple upgrade so I did it just to get started. I like it other than the switch in the radiator doesn't seem to work. So I installed a bypass switch and leave the fan on, as long as the ignition is on. I'll eventually replace the temp switch, but it is low on the priority list.

    I'll share some pictures later, but Ol' Blue just got a sibling. 91 Mitsu MM 2.4L. Body is in better shape, frame has more rust. Been working on the sale for 2 months, seller had some title challenges to resolve before he could sell.
    Proud owner of :
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    91 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 2.4L - currently unnamed

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ram50-Newb View Post
    Hey xbox. Sorry for the delayed response. I can't tell you if the electric fan performs better, because Ol' Blue was barely running when I inherited him. Since I wasn't very mechanically inclined it was a simple upgrade so I did it just to get started. I like it other than the switch in the radiator doesn't seem to work. So I installed a bypass switch and leave the fan on, as long as the ignition is on. I'll eventually replace the temp switch, but it is low on the priority list.

    I'll share some pictures later, but Ol' Blue just got a sibling. 91 Mitsu MM 2.4L. Body is in better shape, frame has more rust. Been working on the sale for 2 months, seller had some title challenges to resolve before he could sell.
    Don't run the fan continuously - it'll cause grief. The engine will never get up to operating temps and the battery will take a beating. I wanted an electric fan on my truck and seeming I'd run into problems trying to get a decent replacement unit, I opted to modify a van radiator (copper core, brass tanks) and had a single wire sender bung soldered into the bottom tank. One headache with trying to do this with an alloy core radiator is there isn't an easy (well, easier...) way of installing a sender at the optimal location. Congrats on adding to your collection! They are an addiction
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  11. #36

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    Here they are, such a happy pair.

    20191014_163317.jpg

    Thanks Geezer for the info, I haven't been driving the truck long, just short trips.
    I have been trying to find a temp switch I can install in the Intake Manifold where I deleted some of the extra crap from the Mikuni.
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  12. #37


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    The truck on the left looks meaner Newb thanks for sharing the electric fan info...

  13. #38

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    Don't know why I've thought about this - is there a difference between manual and auto optioned intake manifolds? I'm being ignorant here but there is a temp sender unit somewhere on the engine to let the auto know it's hot enough to go into O/D. The sender location would be a practical place to fit a electric thermofan sender if you could swap a manual intake for an auto... perhaps? Only other place I could think of is the vacuum thermo switch under the thermostat housing. It only operates control valves on the air cleaner - take it out and install the fan sender there. Ultimately the best way is an adapter in the bottom radiator hose as this is the optimal temperature reading spot for coolant returning to the engine.
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  14. #39


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    Newb & geezer -- I found a product for a fan temp sensor that fits in the radiator hose... It even has a small screw for connecting a ground wire...

    Install VIDEO here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1J_SgpgV68

    Someday I will look for those intake manifold spots geezer pointed out; a threaded temp sensor in an OEM spot would be great...

  15. #40

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    I have installed that type of adapter (it was a no-brand version identical to this so it was considerably cheaper) but... they screwed up. It needs to be in the bottom hose. The bottom hose is the peak temperature location post cooling system for the sender to read that the coolant has dropped below peak temperature to shut off the fan(s) and is the reason why thermo fans are normally triggered by a factory sender located in the bottom radiator tank. You can use a single terminal sender if you add a ground lead to the body of the adapter - no teflon tape on the threads or it'll insulate the sender and won't work in this install. If you're thinking about going down this path, here's a link to an ebay listing -

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/32MM-Water-...sAAOSw4b1cJxDw

    ...add a sender, a fan and a relay kit - voila! (check your hose diameter before taking the leap as I'm not 100% of the factory hose ID)
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  16. #41


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    Neil, I am finding & reading numerous discussions about where to place the fan temp sensor (top OR bottom of radiator) seems about 50/50 on peoples reasoning... I'll go with you bro... Saving $ now to get the alternator 1st...

    Not trying to hijack Old Blue thread

  17. #42

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    So after dealing with a clappy camshaft, due to failing auto lash adjusters in the rocker arms (again), I finally made the move to a new cylinder head (non-jet) from Top End Performance, with mechanical rocker arm adjusters. Spent the last few days tearing apart the top end and swapping heads. The trucks better now, but haven't been able to take it out - due to ran and the big hole in the roof from the missing sunroof. Let me apologize up front, I forgot to take to pictures during the process - but I'll get one later of the head in place.

    The only part that still causes me some concern, and I am hoping it is just because it's an older motor with timing chain, is a rattle-like noise when I manually rev the carb. Last for only a second and then stops, even when I hold it wide open. It only seems to make the noise for about 1 second on quick acceleration. Any thought?

    I haven't started on the '91 yet, due to working on a VW for my wife's friend, so it's taking up the second bay in the garage.
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  18. #43

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    Sounds like it's timing chain related. Is the tensioner is oil pressure actuated? Might need the guide adjusted
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  19. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Sounds like it's timing chain related. Is the tensioner is oil pressure actuated? Might need the guide adjusted
    Hey Geezer, yea the timing chain is oil pressure actuated. I have the balance shaft chain tension good. Is it possible to adjust the timing chain tension? I thought it was all driven by pressure and the spring behind the tensioner piston.
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  20. #45

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    If it's only chattering for a few seconds while it builds pressure, I don't think there's a lot you can do about it and it is safe anyway (just annoying) When a chain goes bad you'll know. The constant noise will get on your nerves but obviously you won't let it go that way. I don't know if an engine flush or changing the oil will make a difference either.
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  21. #46

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    And the saga continues...
    Now that we had a nice day here in PA, I took Ol Blue for a joy ride. The engine sounded good until she warmed up. Then I could hear a knocking going up hills, drove it home and could hear the same knocking at idle. Climbed under the truck and seems it was coming from the bottom end. So pulled the truck in the garage and dropped the oil pan. Seems the connecting at least 2 had some free play. Checked the torque on the ARP bolts still snug at 40 ft lbs of torque. Decided to check the bearings, see pictures below. Seems excessive for the small amount of mileage since I redid the bottom end several years ago. Posting for others thoughts.

    20200425_190143.jpg
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  22. #47

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    Don't know what to make of that. No real discolouration. I'm leaning towards oil pressure - did you do the balance shaft bearings and what is the oil pump like? Those bearings should've lasted a lot longer than a few years. OOC what oil and filter did you last use (or have been using)?
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  23. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Don't know what to make of that. No real discolouration. I'm leaning towards oil pressure - did you do the balance shaft bearings and what is the oil pump like? Those bearings should've lasted a lot longer than a few years. OOC what oil and filter did you last use (or have been using)?
    After the rebuild, I used Royal Purple Engine Break-in Oil. After it sat for a few years here at the new house, I changed it out for Royal Purple HPS both had zinc/phosphorus for wear protection.
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  24. #49


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    Looks like the bearings were to tight. when you did the rebuild did you have the rods resized? A good machine shop will torque the caps with the new bolts then resize them. Also you should have used plastigauge when you put the bearings in and checked the clearance between the bearing and crank.

  25. #50

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    ^I thought the same but the bearings didn't look like they had suffered from deformation from being squeezed in there. That and the noisy timing chain seemed to be connected by the oil pressure issue
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