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Thread: silent shaft delete on installed motor

  1. #1

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    silent shaft delete on installed motor

    I started this hol/weekend with a project to change my water pump, thermostat, oil pump and timing belt. The water pump went easy but the oil pump has turned into a bigger project than intended.
    But now that I have the engine pretty stripped down I would like to go ahead with the shaft delete, as I was already going to leave out the secondary timing belt and tensioner, ect.
    I already have the delete kit and I understand how its supposed to work, I just want to know if anybody has done it while the engine was still installed.
    - can it be done this way?
    - will I have enough access to remove/install the new bushings?
    - do I have to remove the 'cradle' that includes all the bearing caps?

    THX, for any info.
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  2. #2


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    This is a 4g63 but the steps are the same.

    http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

  3. #3

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    So technically this can be done with the engine still installed, if there is room for the shafts to be pulled out through the front of the block. (?)
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lon Moer View Post
    So technically this can be done with the engine still installed, if there is room for the shafts to be pulled out through the front of the block. (?)
    Of course these shafts are now garbage to me, so if needed I'll just pull them out as far as they can come and then chop them off with the cut-off wheel!
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  5. #5

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    I did mine with the engine still installed, i removed the balance shaft in 2006

  6. #6


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    Remove the radiator, maybe ? chopping them off, yeah..they are a bit thick.

  7. #7

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    No i removed it with the radiator installed,with the fan and shroud removed,

  8. #8

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    Okay, I already have the radiator out, so there was no problem removing the shafts.
    However, after all that I've decided to just do the oil shaft delete, leave the upper shaft in place and just go with the belt delete.
    I'm not building a race truck, so 2/3's of the modification will be cool.
    And I need to have it all back together by the end of the weekend and I'm not sure about installing the rear bearing.



    Quote Originally Posted by LSR Mike View Post
    This is a 4g63 but the steps are the same.

    http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html
    For you following these instructions;
    - decide first if you are doing the upper shaft before installing the freeze plug in the oil pump cover
    - on the 4G64 engine you do not need to disassemble the oil pump as shown.
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  9. #9

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    I originally started this project because the front crank seal was leaking and since I didn't really know anything about the motor, I decided to just change out everything; oil pump, water pump, timing belt.
    The water pump and main timing belt appear to have been changed before, but the secondary belt was all cracked.
    As I already posted I only did the lower silent shaft delete using the short stub shaft from the kit.
    The reassembly all went normal, I used a Fel-Pro cork pan gasket and the engine appears to be running normal except the custom oil pump is not pumping oil.
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  10. #10

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    Well, I'm not totally sure about what is going on.
    I was sure I had no oil pressure, the oil gauge was pegged at full high pressure and the valve HLA's were rapping out loud.

    So I pulled out the (new) oil pressure sender and the coil plug wire and turned the engine over a few times and found that the oil pump was working. I poured the oil back in the top, reinstalled the oil sender and started the truck and just let it run. The oil gauge only came up to half way and then settled down like normal. The HLA's quieted a little bit and I just let it run at idle until the (new) thermostat opened. soon after the HLA noise finally went away.
    I can only guess that there was some kind of air "bubble" in the oil system and opening the sender port allowed the oil pump to fully prime.

    Took it out for a test drive to pick-up some chinese food and the truck is running great. A little higher idle vibration, but the tach is steady and it rev's noticeably quicker.
    next up is the head; valve stem seals, cam seal, new HLA's and a valve cover gasket
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

  11. #11

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    since you deleted the balance/silent shaft(s) the rotating assembly is now out of balance. you will most likely be replacing your main bearings before too long because that vibration you felt when you picked up chinese and at idle is pounding the crap out of your main bearings. i had a friend who did the same thing to the 4g64 motor in his '93 galant and he had the motor back out in a little over 10000 miles to replace the main bearings and a few other issues from not having the rotating assembly balanced after he removed the balance/silent shafts. the balance/silent shafts have a purpose... minimizing vibrations within the rotating assembly and functioning as an anti-torque device.

  12. #12



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    Unless you want to do a balance and blueprint to minimize the 4 cylinder vibration. Most are rebuilding their engine when removing balance shafts. Some like the change, some don't notice too much of a change. I decided to keep mine in because of my machine shop's advise. I think Mitsubishi put them in for a reason and that always convinced me to keep it, sacrificing a few extra HP since I didn't remove it. Don't feel bad if you want kick yourself. Many have made mistakes in here and like myself whom has made many, you learn as you correct them.

  13. #13



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    You want to feel vibration, come along for a ride in my truck. About 3500 to 5000 RPM is knarly. Hard mounted engine and trans. You won't notice the change that much and you don't make huge HP to destroy the mains in a timely fashion.
    Members come and members go, But the board keeps track of them.
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    The MightyRam50 site is sponsored in part by On Site Concrete Inc.

  14. #14


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    The Shaft are there mostly for your butt (there's a joke in there somewhere), but you should be balancing the everything when you do it, from the harmonic balancer to the clutch pressure plate.

  15. #15

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    So I drove the truck for a week and hated it.
    This weekends project was to tear the front of the engine down again and put everything back to stock.
    I drove it today(mon) but it still needs a couple tweeks to it and then we'll be back to 'normal' operations again.
    I knew daredevils and I ain't got nothin' against them, ........it's just they're all dead.

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