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Thread: help me run leaner

  1. #1

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    Red face help me run leaner

    Hi, The Redline weber tech support is impossible to reach so here goes. these attachments are my simple mods pics-Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	444 so, I'm newbie amateur,(to my amazement) got my girlfriends 88 2.6 engine going. It has 72k miles and its running just ok. I have some beginner questions. I know it should be running a lot better. I hope with this 32/36 (progressive?) carburetor electric fuel pump I will soon get more power, torque & fuel economy The highly regarded Carter P4070 I think rated at 4-18lbs pressure? no specs with package, You can see I mounted it bright gold as big as your fist,,by the battery because I thought with that much power, maybe being far away from the fuel tank is good? The carburetor only needs 2-4 lbs pressure. I have the Mr. gasket pressure regulator set at 2.5, Is this gonna blow a seal or worse? I can see a fire issue. Does these rotary vane pumps run always? This carburetor has a large port on the bottom of the fuel in port, should/could put the fuel return hose on this port? Its running rich blue smoke. and barely idles when in gear sometimes dying
    1. Its automatic that kick down cable down between the intake is that what its called??, I'm not sure if I need it and if I do, should I just rig it to the throttle carburetor assembly with some home made spring and bailing wire? Does this somehow affect the idle when in gear? If this doesn't what controls the idle in gear, an adjustment somewhere? I plugged all the vac ports, which seems to be about 10 or 15 ports and all three on the charcoal can by the radiator on the left) except the distributor mounted vac advance and the pcv valve ( I put a shot glass sized filter on the port on top of valve cover. Should I soak the dist. advance in some parts cleaner?
    3.I have never used a induction timing light, and will is the distributor that critical to turn two or three centimeters? I saw that it should be advanced 3 degrees, can I do this at the distributor? My engine doesn't really change until I get to 5-10 cm, could the distributor be worn out even though its fairly new?

    5. What is the screw adjust that's attached to the electric choke? could the choke be adjusted wrong? How do I tell if the choke is working right? Is the fuel screw behind that screw? I think so, 2 1/2 turns out. these adjustments don't seem to do much, I can turn that screw 10 turns out and it still runs, I wonder why?

    I could go on, but I won't. Thanks for a few tips.. one more thing, I just read that pressure regulators don't like more than 6 lbs of pressure I'm guessing this could be the problem, Maybe this pressure controller is not doing its job. This could mean more $ to spend on a gauge?

  2. #2

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    I see a problem right off, it may not make a massive bit of difference, but the Carter P4070 instructions state the pump should be as close to the tank as possible. I think yer currently running it about as far away as you can get...

    I'm running mine with no regulator on it, everything functions fine. Caveat being, I'm running a 38/38 Synchro, not a progressive. Dunno if that matters or not, just threw it out there.

    Sounds like you got the vacuum cut off right, but get some soap bubbles and check your work (a LIGHT spray of carb cleaner will work, too. Engine revs if you have a leak).

    Taking it to a mechanic that knows carb adjustment would be your best bet. They can probe the exhaust and put a flow meter on it. Need to check the jetting, choke, mixture, and high idle. You can also look HERE for some tips if you wish to try it yourself. Check to be sure the choke has full range of motion. Webers like to bind (mine did). If it's an electric choke, do be sure the choke is hooked to an ignition-on 12v source.

    As far as timing? I can usually set it by ear as easily as using a light. Up to you.

    Good luck!

    Edit: Reread your post. Yes, the pump runs all the time. I believe there were instructions with the pump for a dead-man's switch to shut it down in a crash. I just put mine on a cut-off under the dash...
    Last edited by Acuta73; 05-21-2011 at 11:57 PM.

  3. #3

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    if you are trying to set your timing, be sure to unhook your vacuum advance before you time the motor.

  4. #4

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    Ahh man, i never unhooked my vacuum advance when i set my timing, i wonder if thats why my timing always seems to be a bit off!?... lol

  5. #5



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    Don't need to disconnect the vacuum advance; if you do, plug the hose or the leak you cause will change how the motor idles and throw off the timing.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

  6. #6

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    Hey i agree the pump should before the fuel filter i believe and near the tank. my 5spd 2.6 used to die during idle at stop signs. you could be flooding the float bowl. i fixed mine by bending the float. BTW what kind of weber is that? Are you a manual or automatic trans? I want a weber that has uses the linkage near the firewall. What kind of weber is it? i have a manual and need electric choke.

  7. #7



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    The weber with the rear linkage is a dfv; dgv are front linkage. A is automatic choke, e is electric; there is a water choke version and a manual one. All choke controls are interchangeable. The fuel filter goes before the pump as close to the tank as possible. The kick down cable for the automatic needs to be connected to get the tranny to shift correctly according to throttle position. It must be a solid connection (arm or bracket) to ensure proper cable movement. Set the timing to 10deg btdc for the best running motor. With the pump by the tank, you shouldn't need a reg.
    Pennyman1
    The best Dodge that Dodge never made
    Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980

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