Picked myself up a 1992 Mitsubishi Mighty Max with the 4G63 engine, running but in need of some love. Had some skipping issues when I bought it. Put brand new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, EGR valve, coolant sensor, coolant sender, thermostat, heater and coolant hoses, oxygen sensor, air filter, fuel filter on it. This seemed to fix many problems but it still was at times hard to start and smokes heavily but is not burning oil, a darker white color like it was running rich and would not stay idling. At random points of throttle the CEL would light and cut off, it would cut off if I pressed the throttle to the floor. From this I deduced that it was a throttle position sensor, I could not know for sure because the light would not stay on. I removed the faulty unit and found out why it went bad, the beginning resistance was out of spec, needing to be around 80 ohms and it was over 300. I first tried to replace the TPS with an Eclipse one that started at 150 ohms and this seemed to work for a while but then started acting like the first bad one. I noticed a frayed wire on the connector so I went to the junkyard and found a good connector and a good TPS that started at 80 ohms from a Plymouth laser. I soldered the new connection on and calibrated the TPS to start at 0.5V with a voltmeter at the soldered connections before insulating them. I started my truck up and the CEL is still on. I hooked up an analog meter and it is dumping more codes, starting with 2 codes and going up to as many as 3 or 4 codes at a time between resets. The motor position sensor, the barometric (MAP) sensor, and the coolant sender are all being reported as bad. Since I have recently replaced the coolant temp sender brand new I unplugged it at thermostat open temp (around 180 F) and it read correctly per FSM, just under 300 ohms. From this I deduced that the ECU may have bad/leaky caps, so I took it out and opened it up. It had a funny spell but the caps were not bulging or leaking at all. I hooked the ECU back up and had one hell of a time getting the truck to start afterwards. I was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction as to what might be wrong? I regrounded all the grounds in the engine bay, going as far as removing every connector and mount point and sanding them to bare metal and cleaning them to make sure good contact is made. This still did not fix the issue. One thing I may be missing, the positive wire coming from the fuse box feeding the horn had shorted to the chassis somehow, I ran a new wire for it. The only thing I can think of is, something else might be shorted? If anyone could give some insight I would appreciate it, I am about to give up on this truck. Thanks!