5 lug hubs: the simple solution.

[camoit]

Once you guys get this sorted out on the parts, years, manufacturer, things like that. Can you place the facts into the WIKI ??..
Just make place for it. Once it's in there you can change, edit, move the information around as needed for corrections. Place pictures things like that. It works the same as the forum. You get more options in editing. If something is wrong some one will correct it but if there info is bad I can revert to an earlier version. It never deletes.
One important thing and,, it's way cool is the name / title. You really need to think what to call it. It's very important. Because when done correctly it will automatically take those words in the title and make links in the regular forum. EXAMPLE: The word History. Will be made into a link that takes you to that page, with out having to go and find the header and put it in your self.
Try it,,, type the word in your next post..

[foolonthehill]

Do '83 hubs work as well? They look to be the same size, just have the bolts running from the opposite direction.

[DroppedMitsu]

I think I would try to stay with 89+. You might have different alignment issues with the earlier years but if you want you could try it.

[foolonthehill]

OK, I need some HELP! on this...I got the '93 Toyota hubs, cleaned them up, new bearings, etc, and I swithced them to 1/2 studs to match my rear wheels. I got them mounted today and I'm trying to install the caliper bracket with the caliper on it to check clearence and alignment, and it won't go on.
Even with the piston fully retracted, and the outer pad hard agaisnt the caliper itself, it lacks quite a bit of having enough clearence to slide over the rotor.
I went back and measured the stock rotor, and it mic'd out at .755; the new rotor, .890.
Anyone have this issue?
Any suggestions?

[DroppedMitsu]

I didn't have that problem, they go over my rotors fine, and I believe they are .88 thick also. Only thing I had to mod was to grind the lower part of the caliper bracket a little so it wouldn't rub on the hub. Other then that everything pretty much bolted right together.

[Payrion]

not sure if this helps, but i thought we have to space the caliper out some? I have 91 hubs, not on the truck, just mic'd the rotor at .881.

[foolonthehill]

PB250007.jpgPB250012.jpgPB250006.jpg

Here are some pix I just took. You can see the caliper is hard agaisnt the inside surface of the rotor, yet is still too far inboard to be able to slide it back over it's mounting bosses on the back of the spindle.
At this point, I think my solution is to take the caliper mounting brackets and have about a .100 machined off, .050 just to allow it to slide back over it's mounting bosses, and .50 to center the caliper over the rotor.
Thoughts?

[camoit]

Yep looks like the rotor center line is just a little different from the stock rotor. The only way to see how much the difference is would be, to take a new stock rotor put it on and measure from the caliper mounting on the spindle to the rotor surface. You might need to take some off of the spindle mounting area also.
Please place everything you come across in the thread just like post above. It shows the important things that people need to think about before someone takes it upon them selves to do the swap. Good pictures too......

[Fordubishi]

I had the same problem with my 81 so I went to the junk yard and got the brackets and calipers off an 88. the only mod I needed to do was grind a little off the spindle bolt holes and they now line up fine. The other thing being that the first gen are sliding calipers where the Sec gen are floating and are a much better brake and as they use the same spindle and rotor it doesn't matter which style you go with.

[foolonthehill]

Thanks. I'm also installing the ADDCO sway bar today while I'm held up on the brake issue for the weekend. And to think; I was supposed to be installing my new cam and valve springs and timing chain as well as shift kit instead!
So the sway bar, while wonderfull in itself, is great, the install hardware is not good. I have pix coming of that as well, and dimensions.

[camoit]

Ya some of the hardware that comes with a sway bar is junk stuff. Thin and week. Some times it's better to make your own by using DOM (Driven Over Mandrel) tubing that will fit the bushings.

[LethalEthan]

I got an addco bar for my toyota. Loved it.






the hardware did feel a little cheap. But everythings holding up fine

[foolonthehill]

OK, last post of the evening. I pulled the caliper out of the mount on the right side just to make sure both sides were consistant. Sure enough they are, so I'll be milling about .060 off the bracket. I may look at some 2nd gen calipers and mounts.
Lastly, here's the sway bar mounts. the kit doesn't include links, only the bar-to-frame mount, and these simply don't fit. So here's a comparitive picture of the mount (left) as supplied by ADDCO, the factory mount (center), and the modified mount for fitment into the strut rod forward mounting bracket (right). You'll note that I still have some material to remove to allow the bolt holes to line up. I may even get annal and weld a washer to them and use a slightly longer bolt when I install them just so they can't move under any circumstances.
I should note here that the factory mount will work, using a couple of thick 5/16 washers between the mount and frame. I went through the trouble of modifying the ADDCO mounts simply because they are about twice the thickness steel as the stock units.

[DroppedMitsu]

Well fordibishi post explained why I had no problems, I have a second gen truck with different calipers.

[turbomax]

PB250007.jpgPB250012.jpgPB250006.jpg

Here are some pix I just took. You can see the caliper is hard agaisnt the inside surface of the rotor, yet is still too far inboard to be able to slide it back over it's mounting bosses on the back of the spindle.
At this point, I think my solution is to take the caliper mounting brackets and have about a .100 machined off, .050 just to allow it to slide back over it's mounting bosses, and .50 to center the caliper over the rotor.
Thoughts?

Did you use toyota tacoma rotors or toyota pickup (pre-1995) rotors. There's like a 1/16" difference in mounting depth of the rotor which is why may not be centered in the caliper.

[foolonthehill]

That's interesting, Turbomax. I got the rotors (Rotortech) through Jeg's. They show them being the same rotors. I actually called them to cancel them when I got my first order confirmation because it said "Tacoma" on it, and in talking to the tech rep at Jeg's, he said they both showed the same part.
That is probably what the difference is, but for me now, it doesn't matter, I just have to make what I have work.
If I decide to do further upgrades on the truck, it will probably be to a complete Wilwood system anyway, so whatever I modify to make this combo functional will be removed at that point. Meanwhile, I have all the p/n's for anyone who might buy the truck down the road to order replacement parts, so it'll work out.
But thanks for the detail info there, that 1/16th difference is my .060 clearence issue for sure...I'd take it off the rotor face except I don't want to pull the hubs again, and the brakes are already off.

[pennyman1]

Found that same offset issue with trying to run 2nd gen rotors on a 1st gen spindle - need the 2nd gen calipers to space them out properly. Also, you can get Hawk performance brake pads on ebay for $9.00 a set direct from Hawk for 2nd gen calipers.

[foolonthehill]

An un related question, are the strut rods supposed to have a bend in them near the forward mount? I know they have a slight bend where they mount to the lower control arm, but mine have a bend right behind the threaded portion where they bolt through the mount. It doesn't look right to me.

[pennyman1]

No they should be straight - it could throw off the caster adjustment and tear up the strut rod bushings

[foolonthehill]

Figured, thanks.