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Thread: California smog analysis, ask a smog tech

  1. #51

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    Phelan, Ca
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    1988 Mitsubishi Montero
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    G54B
    Oh I know it will fail but does the Weber really run cleaner to the tailpipe? Off to do the $1.98 tuneup. Thanks for the input.

  2. #52

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    west coast, ca
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    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
    Engine

    6G72

    Question

    I have failed twice now with the V6 mighty max. I attached the two tests to this post. The first test was before the catalytic convertor replacement.
    High NOX, is failure reason, but O2 is also high. Tech guesses that my combustion temp is too high, due to lean condtion, and that I might have a vacuum leak, and exhaust leak.
    It does run rough before it is warmed up, and has extreme hesitation on acceleration (to the point it sometimes dies when gas pedal is pushed) before warm.
    I did lose a tube that goes from passenger side valve cover to the rubber duct right before the intake manifold. I replaced it with a tube I made myself from an old shower hose. The cover side is really tight, but the duct side is just slid in but not a super tight fit. You can see from the picture that the hard inner plastic tube has no barb. Could that be the reason? I will tape the tube to the intake duct, and see if that helps.
    (Pictures attached)
    There also may be an exhaust leak on driver's side exhaust manifold. Not sure, as oil also drips onto mainfold and pipe from the slow valve cover leak.

    Here is the list of things I have done in the recent past as far as repairs go.
    * Timing belt broke - replaced it as well as water pump, belt tensioner, front cam seals, and front crankshaft seal
    * Replaced serpentine belt at same time as timing belt
    * O2 sensor was giving a code when checked with analog meter. Replaced with new one
    * Catalytic convertor welded in place by muffler guy (CARB compliant Walker model 80904)
    * Exhaust manifold was missing some nuts, so those were installed and existing nuts tightened. Unfortunately sheared off stud closest to driver's side firewall
    * Cleaned out PCV valve with B12 Chemtool, didn't seem too clogged
    * Mass airflow sensor, and throttle postion sensor replaced a couple years ago
    * Spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotor replaced a couple years ago (visually checked plugs right before test, but seemed not very worn, gapped to 40-42 thousandths)
    * Computer capacitors replaced per forum instructions

    Also, I don't think this engine has an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Am I correct in that conclusion?

    List of problems, that may or may not inlfuence this problem.
    * I think my rear main crankshaft seal is leaking
    * Something in my manual transmission seems to be leaking clutch hydralic fluid (clutch master cylinder has been replaced few years back)
    * Valve cover gasket has slow leak, even though it was already replaced.
    It has been a few months since I paid registration, but have not passed smog, so I'm getting nervous that it may get impounded soon (has happened to me before), as this is my only vehicle.

    Thanks for any help. This forum's members have really helped me to save lots of money, and saved my sanity a couple times already!
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  3. #53

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    1991 Dodge Power Ram 50
    Engine

    6G72
    Several things come to mind. First is the O2 Sensor. You can get a faulty one and it throws off your readings causing the vehicle to run too lean or rich. Second, is one that I have experienced before on another v6 Mitsubishi in the past. Owner had a friend do the timing belt on his car, but afterward he couldn't get it to smog for the life of him, so he sold it at a loss. Turned out the front cam was off by 2 teeth. Car couldn't run right because of that. I fixed the timing and it worked just fine after. Last might be ECU, but lets not go there just yet.

  4. #54

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    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    Quote Originally Posted by B-Line View Post
    Several things come to mind. First is the O2 Sensor. You can get a faulty one and it throws off your readings causing the vehicle to run too lean or rich. Second, is one that I have experienced before on another v6 Mitsubishi in the past. Owner had a friend do the timing belt on his car, but afterward he couldn't get it to smog for the life of him, so he sold it at a loss. Turned out the front cam was off by 2 teeth. Car couldn't run right because of that. I fixed the timing and it worked just fine after. Last might be ECU, but lets not go there just yet.
    Thanks for the reply.
    I did replace the O2 sensor, with a walker one just two weeks ago, that had the proper connector already attached, so, it probably is not that.
    Also, I was Very, Very, careful to get the cams and teeth lined up exactly right, so I highly doubt that is the problem.

    I hope it is not the ECU, but a if you guys know of a place where I could have that tested, or repaired, or purchase a new/repaired one, I'm all ears.
    As stated, I did already, recap the ECU, as a preventative measure, and I passed smog once after doing that years ago.

  5. #55

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    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    Quote Originally Posted by mightymaximus View Post
    As stated, I did already, recap the ECU, as a preventative measure, and I passed smog once after doing that years ago.
    Also, I'm an IT guy with soldering experience, so I was careful when recapping also.

  6. #56

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    Wouldn’t hurt to pop the ecu and see if everything looks ok still. Might try an extra set of injectors too just in case yours might be failing. Or have them cleaned.

  7. #57

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    Seattle, WA
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    1988 Dodge Power Ram 50
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    Quote Originally Posted by mightymaximus View Post
    Also, I don't think this engine has an exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system. Am I correct in that conclusion?
    The V6 does have an EGR system. After 250K miles it may be plugged or no longer operable and that could cause elevated NO readings.

  8. #58

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    Last edited by claych; 10-22-2019 at 03:17 PM.

  9. #59

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    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    Quote Originally Posted by FMS88 View Post
    The V6 does have an EGR system. After 250K miles it may be plugged or no longer operable and that could cause elevated NO readings.
    Ok, here are comparison pics of where my book says the EGR system should be, and what is not there on my engine.
    Also, it appears that I have an engine built to federal smog regulations, and not CA as can be seen on my engine under hood sticker.
    Perhaps that is why I don't have the EGR system?
    If anyone is familiar with an EGR system that is located in a different place, let me know.

    I did notice on the pic of the header, to exhaust, that my gasket looks pretty bad. That may be one of the locations I have an exhaust leak.
    I believe that the gaskets I need for that joint is the one below.
    rock auto gasket link

    If anyone knows a good mechanic that is in the San Diego county area, that works on our older vehicles, I'm willing to take it there, if he/she can fix it. Just went to a place that said they wouldn't fix smog related issues, seemed kinda strange thou

    Thanks again!
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  10. #60

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    1994 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chargerx3 View Post
    Wouldn’t hurt to pop the ecu and see if everything looks ok still. Might try an extra set of injectors too just in case yours might be failing. Or have them cleaned.
    I know that cleaning injectors, usually involves running the cleaner through the fuel rail on newer vehicles. Do our trucks have the port where we can attach a pressurized cleaner can onto the fuel rail, or is that something done with specialized eqipment that requires removal of the injectors?

  11. #61

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    1991 Dodge Power Ram 50
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    6G72
    You clearly dont have the EGR System on yours.

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