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Thread: California smog analysis, ask a smog tech

  1. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sampson View Post
    That hasn't changed 85ram50. But the truck had been sitting unregistered for a few years and the deal was, if I could get the truck up and running, then I could have it.
    So I'm trying to figure it out, one part/fix at a time. I'm capable,but not a mechanic so the learning curve is pretty steep!
    OK I was wondering about that. Good luck then.

  2. #27



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    If it sat for a long time it could be it has stuck rings and leaking valve seals. Run the piss out of it and check again.
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  3. #28

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    I wonder if that oil flush that Geezer101 suggests would work?
    I've done it but I don't need smog where I live. Anyway He says to drain the oil and the filter. Put the old filter back on add 1/2 the the amount of new oil suggested (2 qrts) and 1/2 qrt of diesel. Then drive it as normal for a day or so. Then drain it while its warm and put on the new filter and add full amount of oil. He says it fixes valve seals and stuck rings and removes a lot of gunk. I've done it on my Ram50 and my Dakota no harmful effects.

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    He says it fixes valve seals and stuck rings and removes a lot of gunk. I've done it on my Ram50 and my Dakota no harmful effects.
    It will break down old oil residue inside the engine but it won't fix valve seals. It may 'clean' them out a little and take some of the old oil that has laminated onto the valve stems which might be enough to get them seal better, but when a seal is dead - it's dead. The oil flush is primarily to freshen up the hydraulics first, and then to prolong the life of the new oil by decontaminating the engine as much as possible.

  5. #30

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    I definitely appreciate the ideas on how to clean out old crud and oil residue from the engine, and I figure I'll try it, but how likely is that to be the culprit for such high NOx emissions?

  6. #31

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    If your piston rings are carbon'd up they will drag contaminated oil up and down the cylinder walls. It affects compression and traces of it will end up in the combustion chambers. Also with the hydraulic lifters/lash adjusters being gummed up this also affects performance/fuel economy (it will reduce valve lift, I am pretty certain of this). I would advise you to do everything practical to clean up the internals of your engine - even run an additive to de-carbon the combustion chambers (but make sure ALL the fuel additive is cleared from the fuel system before taking it in for inspection). Hell, take the air cleaner box off, run the engine with the throttle open and use a water sprayer pump bottle to atomise water into the carb throats and scour carbon out of the engine (this won't wreck your engine - it will be unlikely you can squeeze the trigger fast enough to stall the engine out but even then it will only be temporary) You'll hear the exhaust crackling as flakes of carbon are getting burnt off if the engine is particularly fouled up. Run brand spanking new plugs when you take it in as well. Oh, and install a new coil - a weak spark will prevent a clean combustion burn and this will also have an affect on emissions. Some people have recommended using E10 fuel to lower emissions but I haven't read up on it enough to say if this is legit or a snake oil remedy. We have enough members who have faced the terror of emissions testing and passed so there will be some good advice available.

  7. #32



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    Seeing you have such high HC tells us it's mechanical. Put a vacuum gauge on the engine and tell us what it's doing. Should be a rock steady needle. If it's whipping around there is a big problem. But I'm 95% sure its a valve seal problem, and, or, a MCA jet problem.
    The high NOx is a vacuum leek / lean run. Could be any line and or the booster and MCA jets. It happens when the combustion temp is to high. Clean out the EGR system ports. Also the carb float might be stuck or other ports internally clogged.
    You should get the Jet valve delete kit.
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  8. #33

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    Thanks for correcting my mistake Geez. I don't want to misinform anyone.

  9. #34

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    Waiting for California to extend this smog exempt to 1980.

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85Ram50 View Post
    Thanks for correcting my mistake Geez. I don't want to misinform anyone.
    That's o.k. Neither of us like to have a fan club with torches and pitch forks I should have added to also check the plug gaps and their heat rating. Have you attempted another emissions test yet Sampson?

  11. #36

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    Im glad I found this post what Noah says a few posts back is good advice, break up that carbon and put a new coil in to prevent it from building up again. I have an 89 ram that I have struggled with and been unable to get smog legal even with some help from my local ref.
    I thought it was Carb related but after reading this I want to try a new coil, do a compression test and clean out the cylinder walls then see if that passes.

  12. #37

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    I have an '85 Dodge Ram 50 with 2.0 G63B engine. I failed Smog today, it passed in every area except for carbon emissions at 25 mph. I needed to get STAR certified smog. I believe the limit is 1.4 units and I came in at a little over 2.

    Do you have any recommendations as to a fix? There is a smell of fuel when the car is running that I cannot seem to trace. Should I try and run one of those pass smog additives? Or is carb tuning the wiser option?

  13. #38

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    Are all of your ignition components in good shape (leads, plugs, coil etc)? You're getting an incomplete fuel charge burn, that is what is causing high CO readings. Also make sure your engine tune is right, and check for vacuum leaks. Next you can try purging your carb (the jets may be clogged or dirty, causing poor fuel atomisation). Take off the air cleaner, start the engine and try to starve it of air by placing your hand over the throats of the carb. Sometimes it's enough to pull a large volume of fuel up in one hit to clear the jets.
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  14. #39

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  15. #40

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    I failed smog the other day. Here's the cert. Any help would be greatly appreciated.Click image for larger version. 

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    I failed at 15mph but passed at 25mph.

  16. #41

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    One or possibly a combo of the following - EGR is clogged up, engine is out of tune, a vacuum leak, O2 sensor isn't functioning properly, CAT converter is bad or the engine isn't cooling properly. High NOx is as of a result of high combustion temps - high HC readings either a vacuum leak or something directly related to fuel mixture control like the O2 sensor or even possibly a clogged primary jet.
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  17. #42

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    Thanks Geezer! So, before i smogged the truck and posted this, i had already re-timed the engine (cam was off by two teeth and so was the distro), cleaned and and tested EGR for functionality and it passed, replaced all vacuum lines, replaced O2 sensor with new OEM sensor, and had the Carb tuned by Carburetor Exchange.

    Took it to a test and repair facility and they said it was my CAT, Thermostat, and Carbon build up in the cylinders on the pistons. Checked the CAT out, it was deteriorated inside so i had it replaced. Since i have 3 other vehicles, this one is sitting for a little while. Gonna replace the thermostat and use my borescope to check out the cylinders. If they appear to be all carboned up, i'll run a leak down test to see if it affecting the valves seating.

    Appreciate all the help fellas!

  18. #43

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    another tip for you guys change your oil a day or 2 in advance, before the smog test it will help not having junk in your oil...

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